Hi all, I've got to remove both front door cards ( MY2001 TD5) to access the window regulators but I've read the door card clips break easily. Can anyone let me know if I need the stud (MWC9134) or clip snap sack (as LR call it) EYC101460 or both & how many are on each door card please ? Many thanks.

Pop in the centers of the two visible corner studs and remove them.
Undo and remove the handle, door lock/open escutcheons and window winder and the door card will slide sideways by around 10mm and come off, leaving all clips secure. At that point you will know if they are the big or small headed variety and how many of the original 12 are damaged.

You will then need a strong, plastic knife to remove the water barrier (by scraping off the putty) although I normally rip that off and replace it all with some poly-tunnel plastic.

Small = MWC1417
Large = MXC1800
2XL = MUC3186
Door Putty = eBay item number: 281836331514 (9 x 3mm)
Barrier sheet = 250mu polyethylene - same as the Britpart Blue Plastic, which (if you have a large enough piece) will do perfectly and is IMHO the best of all their products.

Hi Andy I also have to replace my n/s/f door regulator which I brought from jgs4x4 I also got clips as well part number MWC9134X20 trim stud x20 £2.59 hope this helps

When you remove the door card you will find that the door card requires clips of two types, blue ones, black ones and maybe even red ones are to be found.
Here is a youtube which shows how to do it all, but do make sure you buy plenty as when I had to repair the window winding mechanism recently i found I needed enough spares for twice the number as it is very tricky getting them back on and inevitably you will break a few.
The youtube if you look carefully shows you how many you need.
Also if you decide to remove the waist seal, the inner rubber between the door and the glass, do it VERY CAREFULLY as i tried for ages to get a replacement and couldn't.

Best of luck!

Stanleysteamer said:

When you remove the door card you will find that the door card requires clips of two types, blue ones, black ones and maybe even red ones are to be found.
Here is a youtube which shows how to do it all, but do make sure you buy plenty as when I had to repair the window winding mechanism recently i found I needed enough spares for twice the number as it is very tricky getting them back on and inevitably you will break a few.
The youtube if you look carefully shows you how many you need.
Also if you decide to remove the waist seal, the inner rubber between the door and the glass, do it VERY CAREFULLY as i tried for ages to get a replacement and couldn't.

Best of luck!

Click to expand...

Blimey he made that look easy ! I read your post elsewhere about the window(s) having to be at the bottom of there travel to get the regulator out, unfortunately both my front windows are stuck in the closed position, doh. I've got the drivers side door actuator to look at as well, it locks ok but won't open unless I use the key. I'm hoping I can repair these bits if poss. as you get more satisfaction that way.

lynx45 said:

Hi Andy I also have to replace my n/s/f door regulator which I brought from jgs4x4 I also got clips as well part number MWC9134X20 trim stud x20 £2.59 hope this helps

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I'll take the cards off & see what breaks, then order what I need. I did manage to get the tailgate door card off without breaking anything so fingers crossed !

miktdish said:

Pop in the centers of the two visible corner studs and remove them.
Undo and remove the handle, door lock/open escutcheons and window winder and the door card will slide sideways by around 10mm and come off, leaving all clips secure. At that point you will know if they are the big or small headed variety and how many of the original 12 are damaged.

You will then need a strong, plastic knife to remove the water barrier (by scraping off the putty) although I normally rip that off and replace it all with some poly-tunnel plastic.

Small = MWC1417
Large = MXC1800
2XL = MUC3186
Door Putty = eBay item number: 281836331514 (9 x 3mm)
Barrier sheet = 250mu polyethylene - same as the Britpart Blue Plastic, which (if you have a large enough piece) will do perfectly and is IMHO the best of all their products.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for that. I love the bit about their plastic being the best part they supply, duly noted. I'll get the cards off & see what goes ping then order what I need. It's off the road but as I've got nowhere to shelter it from rain I was hoping to get what I need & put it back together the same day but I'm sure gaffer tape will come to my rescue if needed.

Andy Warren said:

Blimey he made that look easy ! I read your post elsewhere about the window(s) having to be at the bottom of there travel to get the regulator out, unfortunately both my front windows are stuck in the closed position, doh. I've got the drivers side door actuator to look at as well, it locks ok but won't open unless I use the key. I'm hoping I can repair these bits if poss. as you get more satisfaction that way.

Click to expand...

Don't worry, you can get the mechanism out with the window in the up position. You just need to use clamps and or gaffa tape to hold the glass in the up position then undo the 6 bolts that hold the whole mechanism in place.
If you can't get to the trickier 2 easily, then lower the whole shooting match down into the space once you've undone the bolts you can get to, and then with a bit of fiddling about you will find yourself able to do it. I did it in great haste (rain) the first time and not at home with easy access to tools etc, but still managed it.
I swear the hardest part is getting the door card back on. Not fun!
Oh and you will need a good magnetic screwdriver or some ingenuity with tape and/or blue tac to get the screws for the door pocket in and out!

Andy Warren said:

Hi all, I've got to remove both front door cards ( MY2001 TD5) to access the window regulators but I've read the door card clips break easily. Can anyone let me know if I need the stud (MWC9134) or clip snap sack (as LR call it) EYC101460 or both & how many are on each door card please ? Many thanks.

Click to expand...

When I did the front passenger door lock actuator I bought half-a-dozen clips at the same time - ended up using four of them. I used the tutorial at discovery2.co.uk (was a rear door but not much difference. Repaired a few tears in the plastic cover sheet with some duct tape.

Now have to do a lock/actuator in one of the VWs - apparently they are notorious for failing: usually driver's door goes first!

Stanleysteamer said:

Don't worry, you can get the mechanism out with the window in the up position. You just need to use clamps and or gaffa tape to hold the glass in the up position then undo the 6 bolts that hold the whole mechanism in place.
If you can't get to the trickier 2 easily, then lower the whole shooting match down into the space once you've undone the bolts you can get to, and then with a bit of fiddling about you will find yourself able to do it. I did it in great haste (rain) the first time and not at home with easy access to tools etc, but still managed it.
I swear the hardest part is getting the door card back on. Not fun!
Oh and you will need a good magnetic screwdriver or some ingenuity with tape and/or blue tac to get the screws for the door pocket in and out!

Click to expand...

Hi, well I tackled the passenger fr. window today & took your advice on being careful, the door card came off quite easy,(inc. the inner & outer window seals) only one screw in the bottom of the card the rest missing ! & one missing plastic fitting. After a bit of faffing I got ready to take the regulator out & remembered I hadn't disconnected the wiring, when I reached up inside the door the connector was hanging loose Grrr. but I thought I'd still clean/check everything whilst it was out. I connected the motor to a spare battery & it worked fine, yippee so I greased the runners( one was a bit ten bob shaped) stuck it back together & the window went down perfect, another yippee but then it wouldn't go back up so I connected the spare battery again & up it went I then noticed when you push the switch for up, there's no clicking from the BCU unlike the drivers side window,( which doesn't work) where you can hear clicking from the BCU on the up & down push. After pressing up a few times (hard/gently etc) I noticed if you press the l/h top corner(of the switch) the window works, yippee again. I can only conclude that the motor was disconnected to stop it being stuck at the bottom due to a dodgy switch). It was getting dark & because its got the wood veneer centre consul I couldn't see how to remove it to gain access to the switches so if anyone knows please let me know.

Well that is a result then but a bloody shame no one told you what they had done, all that work for a disconnected plug.
Still you've done some maintenance on it and learned a bit into the bargain. Always useful.
I think you'll find how to get the console out either by reading Haynes or by reading RAVE, or both.
I am not certain but it may be possible to simply pry the switch out but do not take this as gospel. As with many switches, it may be possible but you could break it while doing it, which might not matter if you are replacing it anyway.
If you get hold of a replacement switch, by looking at it you should be able to work out if the latter is possible.
Miraculously, I have never needed to take the console out, unlike in my D1 where I have had to delve deep into things to get the difflock lever to activate the works in the tranny box!