IIRC it's an early car, so should have a manual tensioner?

That's definitely an auto tensioner and it's correctly aligned too.
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Last time I fitted an auto tensioner I set it correctly I thought but I had turned the allan key the wrong way and it was far too slack. I only realised after turning the engine over a couple of times and checking by hand.
The setting procedure is to set the tensioner correctly, rotate the engine two turns and check the tensioner alignment. If it's slackened off, then it needs adjusting again.
 
@Nodge68 I had adjusted the tensioner and rotated the engine but when I checked this afternoon it was slackened of a bit. I retentioned it before realigning the timing marks to see if they lined up.

@Alibro thanks for the link I now understand. So tommorow I will lock the wheels, rattle gun the tension of the nuts, slacken the tensioner, remove the wheels, line up the marks, put it all back together, check the tensioner.... and see if it starts. Am I missing anything ? Thanks all and good night.
 
@Nodge68 I had adjusted the tensioner and rotated the engine but when I checked this afternoon it was slackened of a bit. I retentioned it before realigning the timing marks to see if they lined up.

@Alibro thanks for the link I now understand. So tommorow I will lock the wheels, rattle gun the tension of the nuts, slacken the tensioner, remove the wheels, line up the marks, put it all back together, check the tensioner.... and see if it starts. Am I missing anything ? Thanks all and good night.

Erm, Wheels??? Remove????
If you're referring to the cam pulleys don't forget the location of the pin in the centre is critical. Before you do that have a think about this.

Here is a method I never tried but might work.
Turn the camshaft pulleys to the correct position approx
Using your rattle gun take off the crankshaft pulley bolt and take off the pulley, it may not be lined up perfectly but it soon will be.
Put the crankshaft bolt back in and tighten it up enough that you can use it to turn the engine both ways.
Line up the camshaft pulleys perfectly and put in your locking device.
Use clothes pegs to secure the belt to the camshaft pulleys. (Don't laugh, it works)
Loosen the tensioner enough that you can release the belt from the crankshaft.
Turn the crankshaft until the marks line up.
You won't be able to make the belt stretch down from the exhaust cam to the crank so now you have everything lined up nicely, while pulling the belt as tight as you can, turn the crank back until the belt hooks onto the crank pulley (should only be a degree or so) and tighten it again. Hopefully you now have the crank and cams all lined up with the belt hooked over them.
Use a couple more clothes pegs to hold the belt on the crank pulley while you refit/tension the tensioner.

Hopefully that makes some kind of sense. In the past I've done similar but turned the inlet cam pulley to get the belt on instead of the crank. It occurred later the method above might be better.
 
I assume I need to take of the bottom timing belt cover of ! ..... if so will need to tow the car out of it’s current place as it’s in a very wet and muddy location !
@Alibro thanks man. Sorry I keep forgetting that the pulleys are not called.... wheels or sprockets or anything elts....... but pulleys !
 
I assume I need to take of the bottom timing belt cover of ! ..... if so will need to tow the car out of it’s current place as it’s in a very wet and muddy location !
@Alibro thanks man. Sorry I keep forgetting that the pulleys are not called.... wheels or sprockets or anything elts....... but pulleys !
LOL, yes unfortunately your back to refitting the timing belt.
You mentioned taking the pulleys off but I'm not sure why you would need to take off the cam pulleys. If you have had them off since the car was last running you will need to confirm the pins are in the correct position for inlet and exhaust though which means removing the bolts. The second time I did a HG on a K series I fitted the inlet pulley with the pin in the exhaust position and the car wouldn't start. The first time I was lucky and fitted them in the correct position but it was just luck as I wasn't aware it mattered.
 
@Alibro im getting confused again with names of parts..... 2 camshaft pulleys are the ones at the top and I got them confused with the 1 crankshaft pulley at the lower section.......

I think I am getting the idea now.
When you turn the crank bolt after taking the CRANK pulley of (not the cam pulleys........) it will turn the engine forward or backwards, with the belt still on this will Move the CAM pulleys so that you can re align them perfectly. BUT
- if one of the CAM pulleys has slipped and not the other surely they won’t realign ? Do I not need to turn the individual cam pulleys to get them to align perfectly ? Sorry for being a dunce but I want to fully understand the operation before I take it on.
I understand the idea if realingning the CRANK timing mark with the belt off / loose after the cams are realigned and LOCKED.
Thanks for you patience......


2A1D6DAC-6E4C-4624-840C-BE651B8C0840.jpeg
 
@Alibro im getting confused again with names of parts..... 2 camshaft pulleys are the ones at the top and I got them confused with the 1 crankshaft pulley at the lower section.......

I think I am getting the idea now.
When you turn the crank bolt after taking the CRANK pulley of (not the cam pulleys........) it will turn the engine forward or backwards, with the belt still on this will Move the CAM pulleys so that you can re align them perfectly. BUT
- if one of the CAM pulleys has slipped and not the other surely they won’t realign ? Do I not need to turn the individual cam pulleys to get them to align perfectly ? Sorry for being a dunce but I want to fully understand the operation before I take it on.
I understand the idea if realingning the CRANK timing mark with the belt off / loose after the cams are realigned and LOCKED.
Thanks for you patience......


View attachment 159744
No worries mate, I was in the same situation first time I did it.
Once you have all three pulleys in the right place (approx) you can safely take the timing belt off.
The cam pulleys can then be turned individually without causing any harm, they are a bit hard to turn and can easily spring round on you but don't worry about it if they do. Just force them back to the correct position and put in your locking tool.
Once you have the cam pulleys lined up perfectly and the locking tool in they can't move so you can concentrate on the timing belt.
You'll be able to fit around the cam pulleys but probably not the crank pulley so that is why I suggested turning the crank back a fraction to allow the belt to engage, then tighten it up again to the correct position and fitting clothes pegs around the pulleys to keep the belt in position while you struggle with the tensioner.
 
Totally understand now, it’s blowing a gale outside so nothing happening today, see what the weather is like tomorrow. If this does not work I will have to get myself another Freelander just to practice all I am learning ! Thanks man.
 
Totally understand now, it’s blowing a gale outside so nothing happening today, see what the weather is like tomorrow. If this does not work I will have to get myself another Freelander just to practice all I am learning ! Thanks man.
No worries mate. The scrappies are full of dead Rovers and MG's if you want to practice. :(
 
So far so good____ got all the marks lined up and had to stop because of the rain, just waiting now.....,. The lower mark was of by about 10mm. Using the bolt to move the crank worked great. All I can do now is pray..... and I’m not a believer! Had to make my own cam locking tool as it was out by half a notch and the one I had would not fit.... I could have done it another way but my Heath Robinson locking tool worked fine.
 
Well it’s back together and I tried to start it to no avail.... took the air filter off and had someone squirt easy start into the manifold as I turned it over a miniute later there was a big flame and it started. Very rough for some time and I was and still am not sure how much damage I my have done, either with the timing or the easy start...... took it for a few test runs 300m up the hill and each time it got a bit better. Turned it off and started first time. I think the easy start was a bad idea..... worked in the past.... I thought maybe the coils were not on tight so I gave them a good tapping down and managed to brake some of the plastic outer shell, is this important ? It drives fine and has plenty of power, a bit spluttery in second up a steep hill. It’s like it’s not firing quite right but this maybe the huge amount of easy start that was being squirted in to it....... I will try again tomorrow and see if it starts, what would be the signs if I have damaged the it with the slipped timing belt ?
 
The cam pulleys were out by half a notch as I could not get the locking tool to fit.
The lower crank pulley was out about 10mm
What’s your thought @Nodge68 ?
 
You have to turn the cam pulley with the belt off to get them to line up
I had thought of this and it would have been just as quick as my way and better..... But my mind was working in a linear direction only following my list of 1 - x jobs..... will see if it’s running any smoother today.
 

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