steely dan

steely dan

Active Member
Hi all ,first post on this site . We have owned our Nov '99 5 door Freelander 50 th anniversery model for 5 years now.
Have had the usual problems inc recent precautionary CHG replacement .
I seeking some help on a problem that has occured today.
Rear tailgate is not opening or unlocking. The CL system is operating on all other doors.
Rear window is also not working from the dash switch so I'm wondering if there is some interlock between the electric window and the CL solenoid on the door to prevent the door being opened if the window will not drop .
I have not looked at it closely yet ,(force 8 gale outside ! ) but hope that the panel can be removed when the door is closed to gain access and get the door open.
My wife tells me that when she went to lock it the other evening the horn beeped to alert her to check all windows and doors .She found the window had not closed after closing the door and she then closed it from the dash board switch.
Sod's law as I only renewed the O/S rear CL solenoid last week.....
Any help would be most welcome .
 
Yes the window has to drop before you can unlock the door. I think there is a switch the window mechanism has to make.
 
Thanks for your replies lads .
I've been through the wiring diagram this evening and F31 powers the window motor relay which I believe to be located in the rear N/S panel.
This relay has a contact connection to the central locking control unit so as you say it would seem that the relay has to make via the micro switch at the handle which drops the window 50mm and completes the circuit to allow the latch mechanism to operate.
The fact that the window is also not operating from the interior dash switch suggests lack of power or relay failure .
I tried the hold down the lock button function on the fob for two to three seconds but nothing.
F31 is a 20 A rated fuse though so if it has blown it must be easily traceable.
I read on one of the earlier posts that the wiring is prone to chaffing at the pivot point of the door .
Force 8 gale here tonight with heavy rain :( so I have left it until tomorrow.
Once again , thanks.
 
think the rear window will also drop if you put the key in the boot lock and hold it over for a few seconds. but again, this is ecu controlled, like dash switch, so probably won't help if you have relay/power failure.
 
It's happened on my '02 TD4 a couple of times before - but not for about a year though (fingers crossed).

There are two relays behind the boot panel on the right (looking into the boot) to check. Mine also wouldn't drop using the botton on remote, key or window switch in the front. You'll probably find the rear window wiper doesn't work as well.

I checked everything on mine - and windows wouldn't drop or door open. I gave up and drove it home from father in laws and hey presto it worked!

I think mines a loose wire somewhere - as driving it a about for 10 mins usually fixes the problem. Can't see any problems however.

Try disconnecting the battery as this made my door open and allowed me to get at the four screws at the bottom holding it on.
 
Well got it working again but cant say I know what the problem was.
Disconnected the battery as suggested and upon reconnecting found door would open but glass didn't drop.
Once door was open I tried the dash mounted rear window switch. There was a bleep from behind dash each time the switch was operated which sounded like the lights left on bleep but still no movement from the window.
I locked and unlocked the CL system a couple of times and then surprisingly found all was well again.
One thing I did find though is that some bas** rd has pushed into the spare wheel and then pulled the wheel and panel back out to try and hide/repair what he has done. There is a slight dent and crease behind the wheel which fortunatley can't been seen . I wonder if that has upset any of the micro switches inside.
Ho Hum ......
 
hi my tail gate door wasnt opening or window droping and wiper to.so i put key in and presed unlock button.all works,then this morning batt was dead.charged it up..tail gate window working and wiper.now the back door wont open help
 
all this as happend to mine, had it checked out..and was told that the ccu was caput...having a new one fited monday so fingers crossed that will sort it....
 
steely dan said:
Hi all ,first post on this site . We have owned our Nov '99 5 door Freelander 50 th anniversery model for 5 years now.
Have had the usual problems inc recent precautionary CHG replacement .
I seeking some help on a problem that has occured today.
Rear tailgate is not opening or unlocking. The CL system is operating on all other doors.
Rear window is also not working from the dash switch so I'm wondering if there is some interlock between the electric window and the CL solenoid on the door to prevent the door being opened if the window will not drop .
I have not looked at it closely yet ,(force 8 gale outside ! ) but hope that the panel can be removed when the door is closed to gain access and get the door open.
My wife tells me that when she went to lock it the other evening the horn beeped to alert her to check all windows and doors .She found the window had not closed after closing the door and she then closed it from the dash board switch.
Sod's law as I only renewed the O/S rear CL solenoid last week.....
Any help would be most welcome .
Click to expand...
hi i had same problem.put key in door and press unlock button.lock unlock it sorted mine.try it
 
Hi
I had a problem with my tailgate I disconected the battery and the door can now open but now when I try to put down the back window there is a beeping sound coming from the ccu unit behind the fuse box. Does this need to be replaced or is there a fix for this?
Please help
 
I've had similar probs - turns out that it's not a handle, it's a switch. Treat it savagely & it sulks. Treat it nicely & it's fine.
 
willo said:
Getting a real landy is easy but getting a "DECENT" landy needs a Freelander.:D
Click to expand...

decent Hmmmm thats a interesting ansewer so you cant go offroad properly you have to fix it with a computer the things run by a computer you cant go wading deep the engines are unreliable there 2 comfortable you might as well sit in a eurobox and on top of all that you call them decent poor you see mine when it brakes i fix it goes wherever i need it 2 no computers and its reliable so why do i need somthing modern when it works perfectly fine
 
109party said:
decent Hmmmm thats a interesting ansewer so you cant go offroad properly you have to fix it with a computer the things run by a computer you cant go wading deep the engines are unreliable there 2 comfortable you might as well sit in a eurobox and on top of all that you call them decent poor you see mine when it brakes i fix it goes wherever i need it 2 no computers and its reliable so why do i need somthing modern when it works perfectly fine
Click to expand...

So what you are saying is that my defender TD5 that needs fixing with a computer can't go wading? Nor can the hippo's that came with us S*L*U*T*S on the newbies trip? the hippo's went everywhere the tricked up defenders and disco's did. The v8 disco's had more problems than the freelanders.

ECU powered vehicles can go wading too. They (like v8's) just have to be more wary of what they are doing.

I plug my TD5 into my diagnostic quite regularly. It lights up like a christmas tree every time. I plugged one of the S*L*U*T*S freelanders in the other day and it came up with one minor fault.

TD4's and L series engined hippo's are fine. It's only the petrol ones that aren't.
 
you said it ratty you plugged it in and i said there was a fault thats a computer telling you its a fault why not just have something siple that dnt need computer and works fine
 
109party said:
you said it ratty you plugged it in and i said there was a fault thats a computer telling you its a fault why not just have something siple that dnt need computer and works fine
Click to expand...

The fault was a non computer related fault that was rectified. I purely plugged it in to delete the code. The turbo hose had split so it was showing a boost pressure fault. The hose had already been replaced but as I am sure you are aware it is best to delete fault codes as soon as possible so if a new problem develops you know that the code is for a new fault not an old one. :p

Even more reason to do it is the fact that I don't charge to do it.;)
 
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