ratty said:
The fault was a non computer related fault that was rectified. I purely plugged it in to delete the code. The turbo hose had split so it was showing a boost pressure fault. The hose had already been replaced but as I am sure you are aware it is best to delete fault codes as soon as possible so if a new problem develops you know that the code is for a new fault not an old one. :p

Even more reason to do it is the fact that I don't charge to do it.;)
Click to expand...

jus seems a bit silly 2 me but thats probly cus i prefere stuff pre 1980 as thats when they started to stick chips in nearlly everything now if there was a major pulse you wouldnt be able to start your vehicle or wbu if you broke down in the middle of nowere and you dint have acess to ya comp and a chip had gone wrong you couldnt fix it with a set of spanners and i could fix mine
 
109party said:
jus seems a bit silly 2 me but thats probly cus i prefere stuff pre 1980 as thats when they started to stick chips in nearlly everything now if there was a major pulse you wouldnt be able to start your vehicle or wbu if you broke down in the middle of nowere and you dint have acess to ya comp and a chip had gone wrong you couldnt fix it with a set of spanners and i could fix mine
Click to expand...

I take my diagnostic with me.:D

I'm getting a spare throttle potentiometer as both myself and buckshot use out TD5's for what they are built for and it's nice to know if one of us does get it wet we can get going again with a set of spanners.

I also have RAC AND Greenflag cover so as long as they get it home then I'm ok.
 
Last edited:
ratty said:
I take my diagnostic with me.:D I'm getting a spare throttle potentiometer as both myself and buckshot use out TD5's for what they are built for and it's nice to know one of us does get it wet we can get going again with a set of spanners.

I also have RAC AND Greenflag cover so as long as they get it home then I'm ok.
Click to expand...

the firm pays for my full RAC cover (and i have land rover break down cover till september too for what its worth :rolleyes:)
 
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109party said:
decent Hmmmm thats a interesting ansewer so you cant go offroad properly you have to fix it with a computer the things run by a computer you cant go wading deep the engines are unreliable there 2 comfortable you might as well sit in a eurobox and on top of all that you call them decent poor you see mine when it brakes i fix it goes wherever i need it 2 no computers and its reliable so why do i need somthing modern when it works perfectly fine
Click to expand...

Here ya go 109party. 2 TD5's wading in water above the ECU height.

What was that about landys with ECU's can't go in water?:p:p:p

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaQ40WpOVlc"]YouTube - Ratty wading in Dorset[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iYxWjiNPcI"]YouTube - Buckshot wading in Dorset[/ame]
 
OK Im no LR guru infact only owned ours for 10 hours & have/had the dread tailgate issue.

Symptoms:
door wouldnt open using handle.

Our Fix:
disconected battery waited 5 mins & reconnect
door opened but glass didnt move so now door wont shut
rear demister wont work nor does rear winscreen wiper
beep after pressing interior tailgate button

manged to get door shut without breaking the glass that now overlaps the trim.

checked every fuse, all appear fine.

pressed CL fob lock & unlock 4 or 5 times & the window dropped
used interior button to raise window back up.
door now opens & closes properly, windscreen wiper now works, demister still not working.

fully open window with interior button
window will now only go a 3rd of the way up then goes back down.

turn key clockwise to raise the window & phsyically pull the window up to 2 3rds of the way & window closes rest of way properly on its own

door opens & closes properly.
rear wiper works peoperly
rear demister works properly

havent chanced openeing the window fully again :rolleyes:

go for a long lay down

may help someone i guess ;-)
 
jazzybones.com said:
OK Im no LR guru infact only owned ours for 10 hours & have/had the dread tailgate issue.

Symptoms:
door wouldnt open using handle.

Our Fix:
disconected battery waited 5 mins & reconnect
door opened but glass didnt move so now door wont shut
rear demister wont work nor does rear winscreen wiper
beep after pressing interior tailgate button

manged to get door shut without breaking the glass that now overlaps the trim.

checked every fuse, all appear fine.

pressed CL fob lock & unlock 4 or 5 times & the window dropped
used interior button to raise window back up.
door now opens & closes properly, windscreen wiper now works, demister still not working.

fully open window with interior button
window will now only go a 3rd of the way up then goes back down.

turn key clockwise to raise the window & phsyically pull the window up to 2 3rds of the way & window closes rest of way properly on its own

door opens & closes properly.
rear wiper works peoperly
rear demister works properly

havent chanced openeing the window fully again :rolleyes:

go for a long lay down

may help someone i guess ;-)
Click to expand...


Welcome to LR ownership - above sounds about par for the course :D
 
bonnybrook said:
It's happened on my '02 TD4 a couple of times before - but not for about a year though (fingers crossed).

There are two relays behind the boot panel on the right (looking into the boot) to check. Mine also wouldn't drop using the botton on remote, key or window switch in the front. You'll probably find the rear window wiper doesn't work as well.

I checked everything on mine - and windows wouldn't drop or door open. I gave up and drove it home from father in laws and hey presto it worked!

I think mines a loose wire somewhere - as driving it a about for 10 mins usually fixes the problem. Can't see any problems however.

Try disconnecting the battery as this made my door open and allowed me to get at the four screws at the bottom holding it on.
Click to expand...


sounds like the issue that i have.

My window drops the 50mm to open the door but does not work from the dash switch. My rear wash wipe doesn't work either.

Where are the relays in the rear?
 
jazzybones.com said:
OK Im no LR guru infact only owned ours for 10 hours & have/had the dread tailgate issue.

Symptoms:
door wouldnt open using handle.

Our Fix:
disconected battery waited 5 mins & reconnect
door opened but glass didnt move so now door wont shut
rear demister wont work nor does rear winscreen wiper
beep after pressing interior tailgate button

manged to get door shut without breaking the glass that now overlaps the trim.

checked every fuse, all appear fine.

pressed CL fob lock & unlock 4 or 5 times & the window dropped
used interior button to raise window back up.
door now opens & closes properly, windscreen wiper now works, demister still not working.

fully open window with interior button
window will now only go a 3rd of the way up then goes back down.

turn key clockwise to raise the window & phsyically pull the window up to 2 3rds of the way & window closes rest of way properly on its own

door opens & closes properly.
rear wiper works peoperly
rear demister works properly

havent chanced openeing the window fully again :rolleyes:

go for a long lay down

may help someone i guess ;-)
Click to expand...

I believe that the wiring for the rear window heater is mounted on a bit of flexible plastic insite the door (I have never seen one yet)

Over time the flexing of the wires causes them to break.

I also believe that Land Rover supply a repair kit for this issue
 
Vertuas said:
sounds like the issue that i have.

My window drops the 50mm to open the door but does not work from the dash switch. My rear wash wipe doesn't work either.

Where are the relays in the rear?
Click to expand...


I think i posted that a year to two ago and problem so far has never returned. I swapped the two relays over.

They are located if you remove the right hand plastic cover over the suspension strut - there are a couple of clips access from inside the boot if I recall.
 
My rear door wouldn't open, window wouldn't drop and the wiper stopped working. Went on for some time before I got time to solve it. One day he started bleeping when locking, as if to say a door was open. Looked into this and realised the rear door/window/wiper were now working. Opening the door and closing it stopped the bleeping. I'm now convinced my hippo likes me, and is trying to communicate with me. It's now a pleasure to open the rear door. I took mine apart and checked all the connections. Also took some photo's too. Hopefully they will help others.

The 2 relays are to the right, above the suspension struct. Below the rhs seat belt, in the photo.

PL78QWK.jpg

DSCN1363 PL78QWK

There’s an earth connection in the corner near the door hinges. Check this is tight.

JRoMSjA.jpg

DSCN1333 JRoMSjA

And one the other side - may as well check this is tight while your at it. The arrow is to the rear air vent. The earth is to the left of this.

9nkcGtH.jpg

P1251803 9nkcGtH

While you've got the plastic panel off, check the insulation is cut like below. This is a recall to solve condensation problems on early FL's. Note, this is the lhs of the FL.

zDnnUAi.jpg

P1251805 zDnnUAi

Screws under rear door inner plastic, which need to be removed to get the plastic off.

Cm30bQg.jpg

DSCN1338 Cm30bQg

When above screws are removed, the bottom of the plastic pulls away from the door, and unhooks from the top lip. You can see the hooks on the rear of the panel below.

svRTXgq.jpg

DSCN1339 svRTXgq

Inner sheet across the rear door. Pull off round the edge so you can reuse later on.

SXSkxoH.jpg

DSCN1340 SXSkxoH]

Sheet removed

NEY5LeE.jpg

DSCN1341 NEY5LeE

Pic looking into the rear door, towards the car body. One of my connectors was loose, but can't remember which one it was. Was one of those in the pic below.

sZm6HbS.jpg

DSCN1344 sZm6HbS

And one in the other direction towards the lock.

YP3qUNV.jpg

DSCN1360 YP3qUNV

rear window heater contacts

Cv3cSbe.jpg

DSCN1342 Cv3cSbeG]

some more boot pics

7H2moAo.jpg

DSCN1368 7H2moAo

DSCN1370.jpg


fixx
 
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It's back after a two year hiatus .......
Bizzare that it's almost two years to the day and the weather is identical.
Just went through the original thread and thought I'd thank Hippo for those excellent photos of the stripped out rear of the FL .

Weekend job .
 
Thanks. If yer having problems opening the rear window and/or tailgate, then putting yer Freelander in to self test mode allows you to over ride the normal rear door open methods (keys/fob/CDL switch). This will allow you to open the rear window/tailgate hopefully. Naturally if the motors ****ed or there's an electrical problem in the opening circuit then it won't work... but it's something to try. Have a look at this post, and feel free to list any mistakles you find, and help answer me questions:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/self-test-mode-freelander-1-diagnostics-124575.html
 
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Tried the remote override function, no joy.
Did as last time and disconnected the battery , upon reconnection the window stayed closed.
The rear handle microswitch can be heard to click when handle pulled. and the window down relay coil is also engaging .
The wash wipe and door latch are now working though which will allow me to gently prise the window out from behind the trim to gain access for removal of tailgate and rear 1/4 panels .
This will allow the relay contacts ,earths ,harness , microswitches and regulator to be checked.
Unfortunatly the weathar is appalling down here so it'll have to wait until it clears . I also look forward to trying out Hippo's self test operation then too. .
It's quite apparent that this is a common problem on the FL but as usual no one posts an update when they rectify the fault so if anyone has any solutions /causes/rectifications it would be helpful if they posted them.
I shall once I solve it .
 
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Hi All
1st post here
I have just bought a 51 plate td4 3dr and have ironed out the 5 prev faults i have had, the one that is killing me is.....
I replaced the window regulator and full mechanism but now when i use the dash control to opperate the tailgate window it just beeps, i have check 20a fuse and it was blown, replaced fuse and now it keeps blowing every time i use the dash swith, the window is 1/3 way down and i am totaly lost on how to get it back up, i have searched threads but no no avail, please???
Thanks
 
ross cupples said:
Hi All
1st post here
I have just bought a 51 plate td4 3dr and have ironed out the 5 prev faults i have had, the one that is killing me is.....
I replaced the window regulator and full mechanism but now when i use the dash control to opperate the tailgate window it just beeps, i have check 20a fuse and it was blown, replaced fuse and now it keeps blowing every time i use the dash swith, the window is 1/3 way down and i am totaly lost on how to get it back up, i have searched threads but no no avail, please???
Thanks
Click to expand...
When pressing the switch something is drawing more than 20 amps in the circuit, to earth (bodywork). It's a trial and error game you have here. It could be a damaged wire shorting to the bodywork. Check where the wires go past the tailgate hinges. They could be trapped. When you press the switch the circuit is energised and takes too many amps for the fuse so it blows. Could be the regulator. Try disconnecting the wires to it and wrap them up safely. Then see if the fuse blows when trying the switch. Start with the basics like this.
 
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