Joe_H
Well-Known Member
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Crap! Wish I'd thought of that. Would have saved me buying these.
In fairness no problems with dodgy bushes either.
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
Hi Joe.
Happy to have you back so long as you promise to behave yourself.
Life's too short to fall out over silly disagreements.
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rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Changing the direction of this build thread... ahem... Ali, the rear door is looking really good. I am sure that the rear door of mine is rotten in the same places. How does the rear handle come off? I am thinking of braised repairs to limit heat distortion...Some very nice work there GG. Thanks for taking the time. I had a very quick look earlier and I think there is approx 60mm gap from the wheel to rear edge of the arch at the very bottom.
This stick is 45mm and is vertical with a clear 15mm or so to the arch.
Because there are so many variables such as the curve of the wheel arch, plastic liners curving both ways and the way the wheel will move while being compressed I think the best way to confirm what space is available is to do some mucking around with ramps. Unfortunately it's pishing down here atm so it ain't happening today.
Also I did this last couple of nights so not in a position to take it out for a while.
If you look carefully you'll notice I didn't attempt to repair the holes this time. This was just bone idle laziness cause I've done it on all my other cars but as the bolts holding the boot door handle on are on the inside panel and the holes will never be seen I just treated them for rust and left well alone.
I used paint from these guys which seems to be a good match
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351436515177?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=620517274090&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
And used Halfords Body Shop Lacquer which is the best rattle can lacquer I can find.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
Shall I put the kettle on?
No wait its in the discarded dummy pile after narrowly missing my head
Give me a minute while I wipe the drool off.....
It's alright for you I didn't get the chance to let go of the kettle before it was thrown
And please stop using me to wipe off
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Thank you Rob for returning to some resemblance of samity. Or as near as Landyzone gets.
And thank you Mod1 for cleaning up my build thread.
Like that's gonna last long.
Anyway back to the door handle.
Open the boot door
Remove four screws at the bottom.
Pull like buggery at the bottom of the door card.
Pick yourself up off the ground, rub your sore arse, back and head and swear a little.
Pull down the inner lining at the top of the door where the handle is and you can see the nuts holding the handle.
Use a 10mm socket to attempt to undo them, then swear a bit more when they shear off.
Release the connector and take the handle away somewhere to repair it.
Now its up to you whether or not to try and repair the holes. I did before with bits of metal pop rivited in place but this time just treated and painted.
Hopefully this helps.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
LOL, not anymore.Nah. Even your little swimmers would get through that
JC600
Well-Known Member
When I fitted the 50mm bearmach lift kit, 30mm wheel spacers, and 205/80/16 tyres to my old Freelander we aligned it using a builders level. Then I took it to get 4 wheel laser alignment. And it was near enough within tolerance. I found it handled really well. And was like that for a good few years before I sold it.
And had no probs with bearings etc from the wheel spacers.
And had no probs with bearings etc from the wheel spacers.
