DD3
New Member
true and I did both of these at the same time, it's advisable even if they seem ok
Doh! Seemed genius at first glance.
Doh! Seemed genius at first glance.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
rmg24pro has the fitting tools so he won't need to cut the belt. He's not doing the main belt. He's doing the rear belts which can't be done using the "cut" method due to the shape of the gears.
My v6 was the first belt change I've done. Still running 14k miles later.
They're not as hard to change as people think
DD3
New Member
They're not as hard to change as people think
Witchcraft, Voodoo!! - take it to the garage
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Witchcraft, Voodoo!! - take it to the garage
No just common sense. It's around a 4 hour job to change the V6 belts but most of that time is used in the strip down and re-assembly. The actual belts take half an hour to do. With the engine on an engine stand all 3 can be changed in 20 minutes without the silly tools!!
DD3
New Member
No just common sense. It's around a 4 hour job to change the V6 belts but most of that time is used in the strip down and re-assembly. The actual belts take half an hour to an hour to do. With the engine on an engine stand all 3 can be changed in 20 minutes
When you have done something like this you have the confidence!! I think I'll get my local mobile mech to do mine and watch how its done & provide tea.
Clutch swop out on mine - does the gearbox and IRD get drained?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Yer but no but it's easy when you've done it before. If you int done it before then it's a risk which not many want to take. We've had several on ere have their's done and they've failed afterwards. Luck of the draw perhaps? If it is then it's a real shame to fek an engine when it may have done another 30k miles without changing the belt. The tools are great. You can sell them for more than you paid for them.They're not as hard to change as people think
mrmd1424
New Member
Hi folks,
I am planning to do the first timing belts change of my 2006 FL 2.5 v6. Which additional parts do you recommend to be changed on this procedure? The kits I’ve found on Ebay seem to be incomplete. Most have only the 3 timing belts + idler and tensioner. I presume serpentine belt and water pump + gasket are obligatory. Anything else?
Thanks.
I am planning to do the first timing belts change of my 2006 FL 2.5 v6. Which additional parts do you recommend to be changed on this procedure? The kits I’ve found on Ebay seem to be incomplete. Most have only the 3 timing belts + idler and tensioner. I presume serpentine belt and water pump + gasket are obligatory. Anything else?
Thanks.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Well worth doing the waterpump at the same time. It's up to you if you want to change the drive belt at the same time. It's easy enough to do but the upper engine mount needs to be removed to change it so you may as well while it's off. I'd replace the thermostat at the same time too.
Depending on weather you are using the service tools or not? You will need 6 cam bolts and 2 caps if you are using the tools. You can get away with using 2 bolts if you don't use the tools by following my guide
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Hippo
Lord Hippo
Some part codes
1x ALU1403L Engine drain plug washer
1x ESR4238 Engine air filter
2x FS108301ML Timing belt tensioner bolt
2x FS108305L Auxiliary belt tensioner bolt
6x LYP101080L Camshaft gear bolt
2x LUC100150L Exhaust camshaft oil seal
1x LHN100410L Timing belt front
2x LHN100420L Timing belt rear
1x PQS101272L Auxiliary belt
5.2L Engine oil 10W-40 to ACEA A2 specification or better
Other parts you may like to buy at the same time if needded:
1x TFY101070 IRD drain plug washer
1x TFY101060 IRD filler plug washer
4x STC50529 Engine Coolant 1L I chose to use the long life OATS type coolant
If you remove the inlet manifold, youll also need the follow parts. I didnt remove mine, so Im not sure if these are the only additional replacement parts needed.
3x LWF100090L Manifold inlet seal
3x MYX100180L O Ring
1x ALU1403L Engine drain plug washer
1x ESR4238 Engine air filter
2x FS108301ML Timing belt tensioner bolt
2x FS108305L Auxiliary belt tensioner bolt
6x LYP101080L Camshaft gear bolt
2x LUC100150L Exhaust camshaft oil seal
1x LHN100410L Timing belt front
2x LHN100420L Timing belt rear
1x PQS101272L Auxiliary belt
5.2L Engine oil 10W-40 to ACEA A2 specification or better
Other parts you may like to buy at the same time if needded:
1x TFY101070 IRD drain plug washer
1x TFY101060 IRD filler plug washer
4x STC50529 Engine Coolant 1L I chose to use the long life OATS type coolant
If you remove the inlet manifold, youll also need the follow parts. I didnt remove mine, so Im not sure if these are the only additional replacement parts needed.
3x LWF100090L Manifold inlet seal
3x MYX100180L O Ring
hey quick question, before changing the front belt, i had the crankshaft locked, where it wont move in either direction, and the tool fits on the rear small belts, the problem is the "v"notch in slightly off.. do i even have to remove the lock pin from flywheel to line up exactly.... or only line up the "v" notch... exactly when changing the rear belts?...
reason i ask is beacuse i've removed the lovking pin and line up the "v"notch.... but the rear belt tool doesnt fit in? And the locking pin doesnt lock in completely to lock the flywheel...?Please help...
reason i ask is beacuse i've removed the lovking pin and line up the "v"notch.... but the rear belt tool doesnt fit in? And the locking pin doesnt lock in completely to lock the flywheel...?Please help...
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
hey quick question, before changing the front belt, i had the crankshaft locked, where it wont move in either direction, and the tool fits on the rear small belts, the problem is the "v"notch in slightly off.. do i even have to remove the lock pin from flywheel to line up exactly.... or only line up the "v" notch... exactly when changing the rear belts?...
reason i ask is beacuse i've removed the lovking pin and line up the "v"notch.... but the rear belt tool doesnt fit in? And the locking pin doesnt lock in completely to lock the flywheel...?Please help...
The locking pin will only lock on one place in the crank so it's locked or not. If your "v" notches don't line up with the crank locked there is a good chance the front pulley timing is out. This can happen with some tools as they are rather variable on quality. If I fit performance cams to a KV6 or have to change a front cam oil seal I'll have to set the cam timing from scratch, with or without tools the "v" notches are the the place to start!!
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Okay, thanks, I'm putting the new front belt in place .... I've noticed when I removed the oldbelt the cam shafts rotated about 3 teeth... Just to be sure I use the camshaft locking tool which should move the sprockets the right place.... Correct... I see the kv6 video shows them using the tool... Sorry I'm just making sure this is the right way.... :/
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Read my how to guide in my sig. It's all there tool free. The process is the same only the tools help. As for the cams turning? Yes they do. The front bank turns anti-clockwise and the rear bank turns clockwise but again it's all in my guide
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You can still use to tools but the guide will show you what is what
The link is the top link in my Sig
hey i just want to thank everyone one for the tips... just got the timing and water pump done.... so far so good runs great... , just realized the heater core just went.... going to get that done....tips?
P.s. i have the tools for the timing kit and crankshaft holder, im going to sell the soon...
, just realized the heater core just went.... going to get that done....tips?P.s. i have the tools for the timing kit and crankshaft holder, im going to sell the soon...
comeinhandy
Member
A bit of an old link, but for people coming across this, a video I just did may be useful all about changing the cambelts on a kv6 without special tools. It's on an MG ZS 180 (kv6) so the same engine...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yztTtYsFF0Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yztTtYsFF0Q
