What faults have you encountered on your FL1


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Oh well here we go..............

ABS/TC/HDC lights
SRS light usually caused by a pretensioner fault
water leaks into lock box
window reg cables
HGF (1.8 & V6)
turbo (td4)
driveshafts vibrating
uneven tyre wear
diff mounts
engine mount knocking cos they're loose (td4)
injectors (td4)
broken exhaust manifold (1.8)
aerial thread snapped cos they corrode in the base
fuel pump (td4)
air flow meter (td4)
ird oil leaks
clutch hydraulics
cracked chassis
heater matrix
radiator leaks (td4)
air con pipe leaking (the one under the rad (td4))
broken/seized sunroof runners
inlet manifold rattle (V6)
cracked drive plate (makes a clicking/rattling noise on idle and when starting (v6))
auto gearbox problems
 
Anti roll bar bush
FNS bottom ball joint knackered (what a fecking stupid system of having to replace the bottom arm just for the sake of a ball joint - not to mention the 10ft long bolt holding it all together!)
Catalyst knack'd so replaced for MOT
HEAD GASKET!!!!!
Air-con leaking
Interior overhead lights won't switch on but work with doors opening
Various different knocks from all over the vehicle when going over rough ground
Leaking rear door trim

The fact that it is a Freelander is a fault in itself!

Needless to say, after all the above crap i.e. when the head gasket went, I just knocked it out on ebay and with the proceeds bought an old Volvo V40 which in the couple of months I've had it hasn't even farted out of turn. Shame really as i would love to go back to a Hippo but I think I'll just have to wait until a few FL2 start to appear on the 2nd hand market as a FL1 is not worth the money whatever the price. :(
 
seized v6 engine at 500 miles. Software controls design fault.
auto box started leaking at 9k miles.
aurto box replaced at 12k miles by main dealer, who's made it squeal.
Now they're refusing to take the blame for the squeal. It only started when the auto box was replaced.
Still, what do you expect from a 7 year old car, currently on 14.5k miles. Yes, less than 15k miles.
 
My old 1.8 Petrol '51 (had it from new) developed the usual head gasket/ slipped liner problem just as the warranty expired, but Land rover fixed it for free. My newer TD4 '04 has the usual rattles, squeaky/slap wiper blades, door creaks and a rather worrying purge/prime moan from a fuel processing kind of thing that hides under front offside wing that I haven't quite worked out yet. But, you gotta love 'em - had a VW Golf plus inbetween - YAWN!
 
Replacing the bottom suspension arm plus bolt is a bit exteme you can drill the ball joint out and bolt another in. Least you can on my 'L' series.
 
Replacing the bottom suspension arm plus bolt is a bit exteme you can drill the ball joint out and bolt another in. Least you can on my 'L' series.

You can do that yes...

But how strong and reliable is the new bolts when going off-road? :eek:
If you don't probably no problem, but I wont trust no bolts....

Just a thought :cool:
 
Replacing the bottom suspension arm plus bolt is a bit exteme you can drill the ball joint out and bolt another in. Least you can on my 'L' series.

Good to see some lateral thinking, but it is a bollox design, massive strut riveted to a perishable ball joint.

Where did you salvage the other ball joint from? Another Freelander?
 
I think the ball joint is available on its own as a standard part. I can rememeber doing the same thing with a rover 214 and a montego. Maybee the garage saw you coming. Sorry for the delay in replying but the Yahoo mail has started putting all Landizone stuff in the trash box?
 

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