DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
You have hit the nail on the head there
Hi DUNNINGHAM. Woman who had this Freelander before me just about ran it into the ground. already spent over £2000 putting right and i'm nearly there. Still got a strong smell of fumes at times but at least it's not burning oil now.Changed everything major (turbo/injectors etc)so i can only put it down to a fueling problem problem. Any ideas.
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
You got to keep on top of things
I've just fitted 2 new rear hub bearings
2 outer cv boots
2 rear brake hubs
Only done as I had vibration on back end
And after all that it was the radial tyres
So changed wheels with a good set of tyres and it's fine
I don't mind spending the money the car is mint and at the end of the day it provides a service to my family no good driving them into the ground
rob_bell
Well-Known Member
Bought my 1.8 K-series Hippo as Spares and Repairs with 82k miles on the clock.
1. Top end of the engine rebuilt with replacement second hand cylinder head (previous failed HGF and inadequate repair)
2. Both lower ball joints (replaced complete with lower wishbones)
3. Replaced steering arms (old ones seized, and the upper ball joints on their way out)
4. Replaced both front brake calipers (could have been rebuilt - one side seizing, the other had damaged dust shield on the piston, but new parts were so cheap!)
5. Rebuilt/cleaned sticking rear drum
6. Replaced OSF ABS sensor and Yaw/G - sensor to solve the "Three Amigos" problem
7. Persisting bearing noise - almost certainly front VCU carrier bearing - on list to sort out
8. Rust hole under the rear door handle
Not too bad I don't think for a neglected Freebie. There are a few items of broken trim (replaced the rear ashtray, the passenger side air vent is broken - needs replacement, the gear lever gaiter has a small split in it) but currently nothing that reduces the enjoyment of what otherwise seems to be a remarkably solid little car
1. Top end of the engine rebuilt with replacement second hand cylinder head (previous failed HGF and inadequate repair)
2. Both lower ball joints (replaced complete with lower wishbones)
3. Replaced steering arms (old ones seized, and the upper ball joints on their way out)
4. Replaced both front brake calipers (could have been rebuilt - one side seizing, the other had damaged dust shield on the piston, but new parts were so cheap!)
5. Rebuilt/cleaned sticking rear drum
6. Replaced OSF ABS sensor and Yaw/G - sensor to solve the "Three Amigos" problem
7. Persisting bearing noise - almost certainly front VCU carrier bearing - on list to sort out
8. Rust hole under the rear door handle
Not too bad I don't think for a neglected Freebie. There are a few items of broken trim (replaced the rear ashtray, the passenger side air vent is broken - needs replacement, the gear lever gaiter has a small split in it) but currently nothing that reduces the enjoyment of what otherwise seems to be a remarkably solid little car
Stuart hall
Active Member
You'd need more pages than the bible !
DevonGuy
Well-Known Member
2006 td4 Adventurer
Tailgate handle springs
Front wishbone
VCU support brgs
Injectors
But it's never let me down, has travelled from Northumberland to Brittany, is comfortable, a good distance car (and I'm no spring chicken), and p!ssed past everything else in last week's snowfall. Possibly (with the exception of the Fiat Panda) the most under-rated car I've owned.
Tailgate handle springs
Front wishbone
VCU support brgs
Injectors
But it's never let me down, has travelled from Northumberland to Brittany, is comfortable, a good distance car (and I'm no spring chicken), and p!ssed past everything else in last week's snowfall. Possibly (with the exception of the Fiat Panda) the most under-rated car I've owned.
Stuart hall
Active Member
Rather wasted here as it never snows and on the whole main roads are better than uk.
But I guess at some time the usual trouble with four wheel drive as now two.
Very vague steering, very underpowered,
95 hp from new ?
Brakes only just up to the job,
British Leyland quality wiring
Dealers who don't care
Constantly in JD powers etc as one of the most unreliable vehicles on the road
Nearly bankrupted warranty claims firms
Need anymore ?
Yes we just love em !
SwedishPete
Member
2001 1.8 ES Manual
Bought off Ebay for £250 with 4 new Grabbers fitted and 9 months MOT so no brainer to me.
New bolts for starter motor
New coil pack
That sorted problems I bought it with. Since then outside of normal servicing
Driver's window regulator. Broken cable knackered the mechanism
O/s anti-roll bar link
VCU bearings
Front wiper motor
N/s anti-roll bar link
Exhaust gasket
2006 TD4 HSE Auto
Also bought of Ebay but without faults and 7 months MOT
Crankshaft pulley - packing collapsed
That's all but only had it 7 months so far
Lot less problems than I had with the wife's VW, which eventually got sent to the knackers yard last autumn. I'll stick with LRs thanks
Bought off Ebay for £250 with 4 new Grabbers fitted and 9 months MOT so no brainer to me.
New bolts for starter motor
New coil pack
That sorted problems I bought it with. Since then outside of normal servicing
Driver's window regulator. Broken cable knackered the mechanism
O/s anti-roll bar link
VCU bearings
Front wiper motor
N/s anti-roll bar link
Exhaust gasket
2006 TD4 HSE Auto
Also bought of Ebay but without faults and 7 months MOT
Crankshaft pulley - packing collapsed
That's all but only had it 7 months so far
Lot less problems than I had with the wife's VW, which eventually got sent to the knackers yard last autumn. I'll stick with LRs thanks
jake61
Member
Needed a 4x4 in a hurry for a job on a wind farm at 2500', in winter. Bought it for £900.
So far it has had;
Centre diff mount.
Diff seals.
Battery
Passenger front window regulator.
Was going to fit a rear door regulator, but on stripdown, found a bit of 2x2 propping up the glass. Removed this, reset it, fine ever since.
Back box.
4 x Event All Terrain tyres.
Rear wheel bearing today.
It is solid, reasonably comfy, reliable and hasn't let me down in the 9 months I've had it.
Bought at 178,000, flew through the MOT and is now at 198,000 miles.
All in, it's been a good work horse and I will buy another, newer one.
The above cost around £330.00, including £200.00 for the tyres. My Son is the Manager in a local garage and owes me far too much to charge me labour, so I'm not complaining.
My local Audi garage would charge me that for a diagnostic on my A3, so the cost for 20,000 miles is pretty good.
So far it has had;
Centre diff mount.
Diff seals.
Battery
Passenger front window regulator.
Was going to fit a rear door regulator, but on stripdown, found a bit of 2x2 propping up the glass. Removed this, reset it, fine ever since.
Back box.
4 x Event All Terrain tyres.
Rear wheel bearing today.
It is solid, reasonably comfy, reliable and hasn't let me down in the 9 months I've had it.
Bought at 178,000, flew through the MOT and is now at 198,000 miles.
All in, it's been a good work horse and I will buy another, newer one.
The above cost around £330.00, including £200.00 for the tyres. My Son is the Manager in a local garage and owes me far too much to charge me labour, so I'm not complaining.
My local Audi garage would charge me that for a diagnostic on my A3, so the cost for 20,000 miles is pretty good.
2001 TD4 152,000 miles
3/4 electric windows now dead, waiting money to get the generic bits to fix. replaced the tailgate window mechanism recently. Biggest costs have been occasional front steering & suspension parts, the ABS sensors. Only breakdowns were fuel-pump failure, Ancil' Belt Tensioner failure and a recent total coolant leak (as described elsewhere by me today). Full Service history and it pays.
Aircon works a charm, fixed the nice Webasto engine & Parking pre-heater myself. With Hankook tyres, a truly great Winter snow drive.
As for the leaky tailgate...just silicone the entire top of the plastic trim at the back, right at the top at the join with the roof. It nails it completely. Now bone dry.
Mine is in Chawton White. Not many left now.
3/4 electric windows now dead, waiting money to get the generic bits to fix. replaced the tailgate window mechanism recently. Biggest costs have been occasional front steering & suspension parts, the ABS sensors. Only breakdowns were fuel-pump failure, Ancil' Belt Tensioner failure and a recent total coolant leak (as described elsewhere by me today). Full Service history and it pays.
Aircon works a charm, fixed the nice Webasto engine & Parking pre-heater myself. With Hankook tyres, a truly great Winter snow drive.
As for the leaky tailgate...just silicone the entire top of the plastic trim at the back, right at the top at the join with the roof. It nails it completely. Now bone dry.
Mine is in Chawton White. Not many left now.
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
window motors changed x 4
New header tank fitted
Also rear exhaust box
Now I just need a new oil level dip stick as i can't see oil on it properly
New header tank fitted
Also rear exhaust box
Now I just need a new oil level dip stick as i can't see oil on it properly
bought with 37k miles on clock
current mileage .. 163k
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
at purchase ..
vcu bearings replaced
rear diff. f.mount replaced
75k miles
rear-arch l.p.fuel pump
june 2014 .. ( 79k miles )
changed tailgate lock mechanism
july 2014 ..
replaced exhaust back-box with stainless steel straight through unit
( old one rusted through )
91,308 miles
new clutch and pressure plate
changed gearbox and ird oils
new clutch master and slave cylinders
new front nearside brake caliper
new nearside tracking rod end
replaced front and rear brake pipes
fitted new coolant expansion tank ( old one had cracked around the top )
6th august 2016 ..
changed worn wiper linkage
5th December 2016 .. 131k miles
New ..
f.brake calipers and brackets
f. brake flexi hoses
f.discs and guards
suspension front lower arms and bushes
anti-roll-bar clamps and bushes
fuel tank cradle
vcu bearings replaced due to perished rubber surround
5 dec 2017 .. 152,467 miles
offside frnt cv inner boot replaced
handbrake cable replaced
13th june 2018
replaced fog light fastners
( captive nuts and screws )
19th june 2018
replaced coolant expansion tank
( again as it started to split at seam )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
current mileage .. 163k
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
at purchase ..
vcu bearings replaced
rear diff. f.mount replaced
75k miles
rear-arch l.p.fuel pump
june 2014 .. ( 79k miles )
changed tailgate lock mechanism
july 2014 ..
replaced exhaust back-box with stainless steel straight through unit
( old one rusted through )
91,308 miles
new clutch and pressure plate
changed gearbox and ird oils
new clutch master and slave cylinders
new front nearside brake caliper
new nearside tracking rod end
replaced front and rear brake pipes
fitted new coolant expansion tank ( old one had cracked around the top )
6th august 2016 ..
changed worn wiper linkage
5th December 2016 .. 131k miles
New ..
f.brake calipers and brackets
f. brake flexi hoses
f.discs and guards
suspension front lower arms and bushes
anti-roll-bar clamps and bushes
fuel tank cradle
vcu bearings replaced due to perished rubber surround
5 dec 2017 .. 152,467 miles
offside frnt cv inner boot replaced
handbrake cable replaced
13th june 2018
replaced fog light fastners
( captive nuts and screws )
19th june 2018
replaced coolant expansion tank
( again as it started to split at seam )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Last edited:
DextheMax
Member
2003 Freely
HGF twice.. fixed + head skim.. failed 3rd time now and need either new head or sold as scrap.
Only problems i had with it though.. fair enough.
Second time HGF was due to a leaking pipe begind the engine into the heater and it emptied it self on the highway..
Oh well
HGF twice.. fixed + head skim.. failed 3rd time now and need either new head or sold as scrap.
Only problems i had with it though.. fair enough.
Second time HGF was due to a leaking pipe begind the engine into the heater and it emptied it self on the highway..
Oh well
Alibro
Well-Known Member
You need to get the hardness of the head checked. If the car overheated badly the head has probably softened.
What type of head gasket did you go for?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
The MLS is only suitable in certain circumstances. I can't remember the exact details off hand but the liners must be level and proud by a precise amount.
More often than not your better going for the Payne Elastomer gasket as it is more forgiving of imperfections.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Correct.
The MLS is only suitable if all liners are within 1thou of each other and protrude from the block more than 2thou. The head also needs to be perfectly flat and the special bolts and stronger oil rail are also needed.
That's the safest gasket to use unless the tolerances are as stated above.
