What faults have you encountered on your FL1

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Commom faults? Funny.
FL transform ordinary people in the worst type of devil! :eek:
They get rid of the "car" and let another one in serious trouble. After suffer and look into all foruns as possible for answers, new owners discover FL was designed by Ozzy and assembled by Kong. Too late !!! Them they find out a commom advise: GET RID!!! :bump2::bump2::bump2::bump2::bump2::bump2:
and the Ozzy show goes on....
 
My V6 was owned by some knuckle-dragging-Neanderthal with no idea how to look after it.

Handbrake didn’t hold. Cleaned and adjusted.
Rear diff bearing failed. Repalced.
VCU and bearings replaced. VCU hadn’t gone but read on here best to get ‘em done so did.
White smoke on start up and topping coolant up. Traced to a loose inlet manifold WTF? Still may be losing small amount so will get IMG replaced.
New front discs and pads. Owner had only replaced pads but should’ve done discs an’ all.
Hadn’t change G/box oil so had that done. Still got a slight jolt on 2nd-3rd so will get solenoid changed next.
Blower wouldn’t direct onto screen. Bost cable - replaced.

Got a MGZT 1.8T as well. British cars – luv ‘em.
 
Had a c220 that lay down and thought id buy something simple - Picked up a 2002 td4 Freelander. OH MY GOD! how wrong was i...

1st month: 2x turbo hoses, new fob and reprogram, tailgate motor, shocks
2nd month: Alternator, starter and battery. Drivers side door lock
3rd Month: Both front speakers, 2nd hand ignition barrell, Drivers window motor
4th month: droplinks, handbrake cable, full service (inc breather) ECR valve thing.
5th month: Windscreen (grr tractors and stones)
Now - fresh mot (miracle) and again a split turbo hose, limp home, now wont idle probably maf or fuel pump.... to be honest no longer care.

Shocked at what an absolute bag of cr*p the car is. If it was a horse id shoot it (and then sell it to findus....lol)

:amen:

forgot intermittent three amigos for no reason and failed wiper linkage (wedged it up with rubbish - do feckin rightly...)
 
Last edited:
ming said:
Rear fuel pump , mysterious engine warning [mill light] flashing ,never fixed and dont effect any thing, cracked water header [exspansion tank] not fixed yet. . . .this motor is a td4 auto 2002 bin uprated un hammered, never bin inside a garage , as me un porky fix any fing. . . . .:)
Click to expand...

Get the new modified expansion tank and cap, suppose to solve the problem
 
my problem is with the Conservatives, raping the hell out of them when it comes to taxing them
1.8 PETROL - £280 12 MONTHS TAX
AND SOMEHOW
2.0 TD4 DIESEL - £280 12 MONTHS TAX

if tax is meant to be on emissions, then how can they both be the same!!

other problems

We have got 5 freelanders in our family and the only problem we have had is the hgf but when fixed PROPERLY then we've had no issue, the only other thing is propshaft bearings but if you get it in time, same with diff mounts, you don't really have no major issues.
Most major issues come from people who either mis-diagnose or leave the small problem to get that bad, that they can't afford it and then slag the vehicle off.

They are not great but then again show me a Land Rover that is, they all have their faults but at least they don't rot or have paint corrosion like defenders and disco's do, because no matter how good you are. thats a problem that will never go away.
 
Maelor13 said:
my problem is with the Conservatives, raping the hell out of them when it comes to taxing them
1.8 PETROL - £280 12 MONTHS TAX
AND SOMEHOW
2.0 TD4 DIESEL - £280 12 MONTHS TAX

if tax is meant to be on emissions, then how can they both be the same!!
Click to expand...

Indeed!

The 1.8 petrol engine produces 248 g/km of CO2 whereas the manual 2.0 TD4 diesel engine is only 205 g/km of CO2.

I'd expect the petrol to be way more expensive to tax

;)
 
three broken regulater's
packed up fuel pump
alarms goe off when driving sometimes
al part of been a freelander 1 owner i guess.:rolleyes:
 
I have 4 new Fuel pumps both in the engine bay and fuel tank, Prop shaft broke, needed new brakes and now my drivers window cable has gone apart from that I love my Freelander ( A good job after spending over 1k fixing all the problems above)
 
My Freelander is my 4th Landy to date (had SIII, 90 Turbo, have an L322 and have had Pajero's and Landcruiers too..)

I love my Freebie - L Series Diesel - soild and Reliable, had it a year now - and as a second car to the L322 - its great!! Bags of charm - still a Landie..still clocks 500 - 1000 miles per month.

I've had the Three Amigos (Fixed by reading this fourm - thanks!!:)). 1 x ABS Sensor, 1 x Reluctor Ring, broken wires at the gearstick. Cost less than £40 to fix the lot (a toyota would be in the hundreds - probably high hundreds!).

I've currently have a leaking Clutch Slave Cyl.. To change master + slave this weekend (£42! - love it!).

Thats been it so far! I carryout maintenance monthly and check running gear, tyre size, IRD fluids etc bi-weekly, and check for leaks daily - just the old Landy habits - works wonders..

Landcruisers do go wrong (contry to popular belief :eek:) - I've had shot big end bearings at 100k miles, cracked cylinder head (twice), failed brake calipers, worn out UJ's and front end drive, creeping deep rust on tailgate, above windscreen and on the chassis - all less than 120k genuine miles... all serviced and looked after. Each item was a fortune to fix.. Landy's go wrong, I just choose the least worst (for my purposes and pocket - buy the nicest and most looked after for the money - thus the Lseries and no a TD4 - my cash would only buy a Cr*p TD4, but a nice L series.

I don't mind getting oily - so love Landy's. If I hated Oil, I'd have a normal car.. not a great car! :D

:rolly:
 
rangelander said:
My Freelander is my 4th Landy to date (had SIII, 90 Turbo, have an L322 and have had Pajero's and Landcruiers too..)

I love my Freebie - L Series Diesel - soild and Reliable, had it a year now - and as a second car to the L322 - its great!! Bags of charm - still a Landie..still clocks 500 - 1000 miles per month.

I've had the Three Amigos (Fixed by reading this fourm - thanks!!:)). 1 x ABS Sensor, 1 x Reluctor Ring, broken wires at the gearstick. Cost less than £40 to fix the lot (a toyota would be in the hundreds - probably high hundreds!).

I've currently have a leaking Clutch Slave Cyl.. To change master + slave this weekend (£42! - love it!).

Thats been it so far! I carryout maintenance monthly and check running gear, tyre size, IRD fluids etc bi-weekly, and check for leaks daily - just the old Landy habits - works wonders..

Landcruisers do go wrong (contry to popular belief :eek:) - I've had shot big end bearings at 100k miles, cracked cylinder head (twice), failed brake calipers, worn out UJ's and front end drive, creeping deep rust on tailgate, above windscreen and on the chassis - all less than 120k genuine miles... all serviced and looked after. Each item was a fortune to fix.. Landy's go wrong, I just choose the least worst (for my purposes and pocket - buy the nicest and most looked after for the money - thus the Lseries and no a TD4 - my cash would only buy a Cr*p TD4, but a nice L series.

I don't mind getting oily - so love Landy's. If I hated Oil, I'd have a normal car.. not a great car! :D

:rolly:
Click to expand...

:5biagree: couldn't have put it better :D
 
This is my second Landrover, my first was a 2000 Disco TD5 Auto (profile pic) which I had for a couple of years. Starter motor, brake pipes every bloody one, fuel pump in the fuel tank, that was the main problems.

I'm now running a 2002 Freelander 1 TD4 Auto now in my second year of ownership. Freelander faults so far, fuel pipes leaking from the 5 way plastic branch under the fuel pump/filter housing N/S/F innerwing.....araldit still holding (Landrover only part, come's as complete fuel lines from tank £400) Rear Diff £130 fitted it myself. N/S/F brake caliper seized £12 for a rebuild kit from fleabay. N/S/R metal brake pipe from the flexi brake pipe to the wheel cylinder (Mot fail last Oct). Not too bad..... As for the VCU, just heard of some one removing it & welding a piece of metal tube in it's place????????
 
Hand brake adjusters siezed
lack of power suspect MAF have one on order
both rear window regulators us replaced cables
 
All four injectors completely shot by 72,000 - £951
Corroded contacts on fuel pressure sensor causing all sorts of mayhem - £0
NSR electric window regulator packed up this week - £ not fixed yet
 
Td4 HSE 2006

faults i have had

Power issues on accelerating, yellow engine light came on briefly till i lifted off accelerator . turns out to be fuel pump- the one under the rear arch. Simple fix cost £190 Landrover part.

Rear window mechs cable snapped, Ebay kit fixed at £15 fiddley fix but easy enough

sunroof leak, turn out that the rubber lip around glass was letting water into frame, rotted away so new glass part needed. £184 landrover part easy fix.

bonnet cable snapped, it snapped at bonnet front end, silly quotes to fix as bonnet down. 10 seconds with a pair of scissors and bonnet was up! cable simply taped to old one and pulled through, easy fix took 1 hour tops. £19 for cable landrover part.

rear speaker stopped working, water was getting onto terminals causing corrosion, made drip shield and put above speakers, easy fix no cost.

now the steering rack bolts have snapped, will update with details as it happens :confused:
 
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