I can't wait till the next instalment.
I have a confession to make.So I ordered both sizes and we'll see which is the best fit for my shaft. .
I even took time to measure the Leaf splines with a caliper so as to get the size right.
The two collars arrived yesterday and you guessed it. Both are too small.
Ali, that's not like you. Fancy ordering the wrong size.
I'm looking forward to the next installment.
I watched the latest video again yesterday.
It appears the motor has a couple of holes quite close to the IRD end support holes. These are ideally placed to allow you to join the motor to the IRD, with an extended bracket, possibly extending it round the back, giving a mounting point for the lower tie bar too.
It'll need to be pretty sturdy, as it takes most of the drive torque, but I'm sure it's possible with some stiff 3mm plate, bent and welded at key points to tie the whole assembly together.
How very dare you! My welding is wonderful!!!@Alibro - Mate, I don't mean to be cheeky, but your welding leaves a lot to be desired, so I was thinking that if you make a mock up of this tiebar that Nodge is suggesting using easy to work with materials such as wood / plastic / cardboard / gaffer taped together, and send it to me, I'll fab it up for you, just cover the postage.
Let us know one way or other, in the interim, here's a couple of the most recent things I've made, bigger skids for a remote controlled helicopter to allow it to have instrumentation underneath it's fuselage:How very dare you! My welding is wonderful!!!
NOT!
That's very kind of you mate. I was thinking of tacking the steel together and take it to a local welder but it will be some time before I get it ready.
When it is I'll look into the price of postage each way and decide if that's the best way to go.
Very creative.Let us know one way or other, in the interim, here's a couple of the most recent things I've made, bigger skids for a remote controlled helicopter to allow it to have instrumentation underneath it's fuselage:
View attachment 230734
View attachment 230735
View attachment 230736
View attachment 230737
View attachment 230738
And a flutterby for my wife:
View attachment 230739
View attachment 230740
Although these welds arent the best as I had galvy and chrome and all kinds of jazz to burn through. The antennae on the flutterby are freelander brake shoe springs.
View attachment 230740
Although these welds arent the best as I had galvy and chrome and all kinds of jazz to burn through. The antennae on the flutterby are freelander brake shoe springs.
I've got a lamp stand in the lounge which was top heavy and unstable. It's now got a 200tdi clutch cover plate welded to the bottom which fitted nice under the original cover so you can't see it.
I have a lathe. If you do me a sketch I can turn you up a spacer and post it to you. Then you can have your socket back! Alternatively, that adapter plate is pretty thick. Can you counterbore that hole and use a button head Torx (or Allen head) screw instead?LOL, I wondered if anyone would ask about the red paint.
I sprayed it through a small hole in the gearbox to mark the position of the coupler after moving it as close to the motor as it would go.
I also used it to mark one of the bolt holes where I couldn't get my bolt hole centre marker in because of the shape of the casing.
unfortunately the 9/16 spacer will have to stay. It's there because the bolt is right up against one of the motor mounts so there is no room for the bolt head. It's so tight to the motor I had to grind one side of the spacer to make it fit but there are plenty of other bolts securing the adapter plate to the gearbox so I'm not overly concerned about it.
They look like they were made to fit together because they were. I had to grind back a fair bit of the casings from the motor and the IRD to achieve the fit.
Sorry I should have replied sooner.I have a lathe. If you do me a sketch I can turn you up a spacer and post it to you. Then you can have your socket back! Alternatively, that adapter plate is pretty thick. Can you counterbore that hole and use a button head Torx (or Allen head) screw instead?
It was Nodge who suggested the bracket, and I've offered to fab it up for you. And now you have the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) model made, do you want to send me the pattern to make it for you? My other thought is could you use a cap screw for the bolt with the spacer?
I have this part most of the way there. it just needs some fettling and trimming but I'll get the main part cut out and fitted before going any further with it.
Yes mate I have an inverter stick welder so will use that. My mig is a Clarke 160 so not hopeless but may struggle with 5mm.Nae bother Ali, I was thinking you weren't hanging about when I see the reply. Before you strike an arc on that bracket, can you get your hands on a stick (MMA) welder? Or do you know anyone who has one? Reason I ask is your mig is most likely going to be about as much use for welding that as a soldering iron. As a rough guestimate you're going to need to use thicker wire, 1.1/1.2mm and be looking for ~170-180 amps from the mig to melt that thickness to give the weld proper penetration. I reckon a stick would do it in about 80-90amps, absolute tops 110 amps, with a 3.2mm or 4.0mm rod but playing with quite a long arc length to put more heat into the workpieces.
Good point John. I'll probably just tack the bracket together until I've confirmed the position of the lower tie bar.Looking good Ali. Don't forget you'll need to find a place to anchor the lower tie bar too, which might well be able to come off that twisted cross support.
True but it was better designed so probably stronger if anything.5mm might be a bit thicker than you really need ? Not sure how thick the standard IRD to Engine bracket is, but I'm sure it was thinner & perfectly ok.