Nodge68 said:
A fine file wrapped in 400 wet n dry used with oil will give you a better sealing surface Ali. You need to make sure you keep the surface at a 90° angle to the thread, but it shouldn't be too difficult to do make that face suitable for a hydraulic seal.
I'd use an annealed copper washer, which should do what you need.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of jerry rigging something with the battery drill or dremel to try and flatten it. I'll take a look through my tools to see what I have but it would be amazing if I can make it work without spending a load of dosh having a hose custom made. ;)
I figured if I use a rotary device like Jayridem mentioned but very fine grit it would be OK. then finish with wet and dry.
 
As much as I dont think I will ever buy a freelander or EV .

I have been reading this with interest, and as a project I think its great :).

Good luck

J
 
marjon said:
As much as I dont think I will ever buy a freelander or EV .

I have been reading this with interest, and as a project I think its great :).

Good luck

J
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, If you live long enough you'll probably have no choice as fossil fuel cars will eventually be a thing of the past. I'm not sure I'll be around long enough to have no choice. :(

As for the project, I'm having fun doing it and that's what matters. ;)
 
Alibro said:
I figured if I use a rotary device like Jayridem mentioned but very fine grit it would be OK. then finish with wet and dry.
Click to expand...

If the surface your needing is flat, then you need to use a tool that will make it flat.
Rotary tools are great at making surface far from flat.
Hence the file wrapped wet n dry.;)

The amount of alloy you need to remove is small, so hand tools will be fine. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
If the surface your needing is flat, then you need to use a tool that will make it flat.
Rotary tools are great at making surface far from flat.
Hence the file wrapped wet n dry.;)

The amount of alloy you need to remove is small, so hand tools will be fine. ;)
Click to expand...
I'll try it your way Nodge, as you say it's not that much to remove.
I'll try to make up some kind of jig to keep the file square to the face as I'm a bit cack handed.
 
Honestly, I wouldn't get your knickers in a twist about the flatness of the surface, both the ally casting and the copper washer have give in them, so both will deform to mate to each other due to the stresses of the bolt. If you were worried about it, or a bit OCD, you could look at bastardizing a banjo swivel fitting, but genuinely, hydraulics is my trade, if you loctite the threads on the banjo bolt, and give it a good nip, as long as it's reasonably flat, the seals will work. There shouldn't be any pressure trying to capiliary through the threads, and if there is its stopped dead by loctite.

Edit: loctite 542 is the kiddy for this project - its not a thread locker but a hydraulic thread sealant, and is designed to be used in stead of PTFE thread tape on a lot to installations, BP actually banned thread tape on their platforms ad insist on use of '542.

Banjo Swivels differ from normal banjos in that they have a stud with a hex in the middle, the flat face of the stud is one of the mating sealing faces, the other being the locking device at the top, often a spring clip or a cap screw. I'll try and grab you some pictures.
 
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Jayridium said:
Honestly, I wouldn't get your knickers in a twist about the flatness of the surface, both the ally casting and the copper washer have give in them, so both will deform to mate to each other due to the stresses of the bolt. If you were worried about it, or a bit OCD, you could look at bastardizing a banjo swivel fitting, but genuinely, hydraulics is my trade, if you loctite the threads on the banjo bolt, and give it a good nip, as long as it's reasonably flat, the seals will work. There shouldn't be any pressure trying to capiliary through the threads, and if there is its stopped dead by loctite.

Edit: loctite 542 is the kiddy for this project - its not a thread locker but a hydraulic thread sealant, and is designed to be used in stead of PTFE thread tape on a lot to installations, BP actually banned thread tape on their platforms ad insist on use of '542.

Banjo Swivels differ from normal banjos in that they have a stud with a hex in the middle, the flat face of the stud is one of the mating sealing faces, the other being the locking device at the top, often a spring clip or a cap screw. I'll try and grab you some pictures.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, I'll get myself some 542 then before final installation. I'm a wee bit concerned at the lack of threads on the banjo bolt compared to the other fitting. The power steering pump is alloy and I don't want strip out the threads so will be using as little torque as I can get away with.

So last night I had a wee go using a flat file and some wet & dry.
This was it before I started with some blue roll bunged in the hole to keep dirt out.
IMG_20201218_200105623.jpg

This was after a few minutes using the file
IMG_20201218_200753695.jpg

And after another thirty minutes or so going from 600 grit through 1500, 2000 to 2500 grit.
IMG_20201218_204301729.jpg

And it fits beautifully. :)
IMG_20201218_210058162.jpg
 
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So After with a little rerouting of the high pressure hose behind the brake lines It looks like the pump will fit very close to the location of the original Power steering header tank.
IMG_20201218_210025457.jpg


So then I had a look at the return.
The Freelander hose is so large it fits over the TRW hose so I cut a piece of pipe to prevent the TRW hose from collapsing and flared the end to make sure it stays in place
IMG_20201218_212058533.jpg
IMG_20201218_212149042.jpg


So after shoving the two hoses together and with very little persuasion this is where it it is happy to sit.
IMG_20201218_212919484.jpg
IMG_20201218_212929163.jpg


I don't want to get too excited about making up a bracket to hold it just yet as I still need to figure out the motor mount but This looks like it will work out really nicely. :)
 
Alibro said:
So After with a little rerouting of the high pressure hose behind the brake lines It looks like the pump will fit very close to the location of the original Power steering header tank.View attachment 225484

So then I had a look at the return.
The Freelander hose is so large it fits over the TRW hose so I cut a piece of pipe to prevent the TRW hose from collapsing and flared the end to make sure it stays in place
View attachment 225485 View attachment 225486

So after shoving the two hoses together and with very little persuasion this is where it it is happy to sit.
View attachment 225487 View attachment 225488

I don't want to get too excited about making up a bracket to hold it just yet as I still need to figure out the motor mount but This looks like it will work out really nicely. :)
Click to expand...

That's almost made to fit that location Ali.
I like stuff when it works out like that.
 
Nodge68 said:
That's almost made to fit that location Ali.
I like stuff when it works out like that.
Click to expand...
I need to be careful about the height but I took photos of the original power steering bottle with a ruler beside it so I know what I can officially get away with. Unofficially it might get away with going a wee bit higher but I see what I can do.

IMG_20201213_113432485.jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
Looks almost OE to me Ali.
Click to expand...
The position of it will hopefully be as near as. At first I thought the HP hose was going to be too long or the angle of the fitting would be an issue but it just sorta fitted in. :)

I have to admit I'm tempted to top up the reservoir and give it a test but it makes no sense to do so until I get the motor and gearbox are in as it could easily get damaged.
In the mean time I'll order up some power steering fluid. Any suggestions should I use LR Freelander fluid or GM Astra/Zafira fluid in my Frankenstein's monster power steering?
I'm guessing LR would make more sense since the rack will still be full of it.
 
Alibro said:
I have to admit I'm tempted to top up the reservoir and give it a test but it makes no sense to do so until I get the motor and gearbox are in as it could easily get damaged.
Click to expand...
I must admit that I would be trying it, and measuring the power used by the pump. ;)
Alibro said:
Any suggestions should I use LR Freelander fluid or GM Astra/Zafira fluid in my Frankenstein's monster power steering?
Click to expand...
The Zafira is listed as needing CHF, which is used in lots of vehicles these days. It's very long lived, and incidentally used in the Freelander 2.

I don't know how CHF will effect the FL1 rack, as that is designed for Dexron 3.
It's probably best to clean the pump and try it on D3, as a replacement pump will be cheaper, than a replacement rack. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
I must admit that I would be trying it, and measuring the power used by the pump. ;)

The Zafira is listed as needing CHF, which is used in lots of vehicles these days. It's very long lived, and incidentally used in the Freelander 2.

I don't know how CHF will effect the FL1 rack, as that is designed for Dexron 3.
It's probably best to clean the pump and try it on D3, as a replacement pump will be cheaper, than a replacement rack. ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks John, I'll order the Dexron 3 then.
 
Thats looking good Ali, If you are worried about having sufficient thread engagement, why not order a longer banjobolt, and tap the threads deeper into the pump housing to give you a deeper threaded hole and a longer bolt to follow it thus catching more threads?
 
Jayridium said:
Thats looking good Ali, If you are worried about having sufficient thread engagement, why not order a longer banjobolt, and tap the threads deeper into the pump housing to give you a deeper threaded hole and a longer bolt to follow it thus catching more threads?
Click to expand...
Good idea. I'll take a look to see what's available.

Edit. I'm struggling to find anything suitable. Loads of ebay sellers listing them but no dimensions or if they have dimensions they are the same or smaller than I have. I Googled it and found one here https://www.parquiponline.com/epage...ectPath=/Shops/r7pkf3sqk6uj/Products/BBJMET16 which looks perfect but when I tried to purchase it they don't take online orders and apparently will phone with postage cost. :confused:
I guess I could try local hydraulic hose shops but any suggestions for online options?
 
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