+ 1
I already got to see the video.
No rear wheel thrust.
It is very interesting no light of fault in your dashboard.
Please report diagnostic and fault codes (ask for codes to be recorded before erasing)
I already got to see the video.
No rear wheel thrust.
It is very interesting no light of fault in your dashboard.
Please report diagnostic and fault codes (ask for codes to be recorded before erasing)
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I reckon the VCU derived 4x4 of the FL1 is unbeatable in slippy conditions. It's the slight slip that allows the tyres to maintain traction which really helps, and actually works when braking too, which maintains grip at the rear tyres.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
That is actually quite right. And the other advantage that Freelanders have is that they are rarely fitted with very aggressive mud tyres, which are not much good on snow.
DevonGuy
Well-Known Member
Freelander be bestest 4x4 int hole whirl evva.Another fred highlighting the brilliance of Freelander's.
GeogreO2717
Member
Had the cars diagnostics looked at and it seems to be an issue with the haldex fuel pump (open to ground or short circuit). Going back in Monday to get verified and looked at more but they reckon it's the oil pump that needs replacing. Strange that I get no message on the dash though.
When the pump fails, the terrain response is disconnected and "reduced traction failure. Special programs disconnected" appears in LCD screen.
It then records the faults p1889-14 (electrical failure of the pump) and sometimes also p1889-74 (the actuator slips). It is usually a problem with the brushes of the electric motor of the haldex OIL (not fuel) pump.
If it works again, nothing appears on the screen but the faults have been memorized. It does not illuminate any fault lights on the dashboard.
The pump can be tested simply by disassembling it and plugging in 12v power.
The pump can sometimes run until the brushes wear out.
First: Check the good condition of the oil and filter, as well as a clean pump filter and test the pump.
Looking at the brushes is not difficult but it is laborious.
It then records the faults p1889-14 (electrical failure of the pump) and sometimes also p1889-74 (the actuator slips). It is usually a problem with the brushes of the electric motor of the haldex OIL (not fuel) pump.
If it works again, nothing appears on the screen but the faults have been memorized. It does not illuminate any fault lights on the dashboard.
The pump can be tested simply by disassembling it and plugging in 12v power.
The pump can sometimes run until the brushes wear out.
First: Check the good condition of the oil and filter, as well as a clean pump filter and test the pump.
Looking at the brushes is not difficult but it is laborious.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Haldex pump failure is typically a fault caused by lack of Haldex maintenance. The Haldex needs maintenance often, or the fluid turns to jelly, and the pump filter screen blocks up with clutch fibre, causing the pump to overheat and burn out the brushes.
The Haldex needs a service every 20k miles, according to the specialist repairer of them.
Make sure the fluids in the rear diff and PTU are changed at the same time.
GeogreO2717
Member
Hi All,
After getting it looked at in more depth it seems as if the Oil pump warning was just not cleared properly from the diagnostics, however i'm going to get the haldex serviced anyway to make sure. With the car in the air it was very clear that there is no movement in the prop shaft with it almost certain that the splines have gone. Currently getting some quotes to get it resolved, but looks like a costly repair for a new to me car. But at least i'l know the drive train and engine is in good nick after as i am going to get haldex serviced, all oil/fluids changed, & timing belt replaced.
I know these can wear quicker if there is uneven tires or sticking breaks. I have changed all the tires as the old ones where nackered, however they were all the same brand and had reasonably even tread depth. The parking break however is not brilliant at holding the car on any real slope, and when lifting the cover in the back to look at the cable adjustment the cables are not evenly adjusted. I am going to get this looked at at the same time, however do you reckon this could be the cause. Just trying to make sure i cover all basis to stop this happening again down the line.
After getting it looked at in more depth it seems as if the Oil pump warning was just not cleared properly from the diagnostics, however i'm going to get the haldex serviced anyway to make sure. With the car in the air it was very clear that there is no movement in the prop shaft with it almost certain that the splines have gone. Currently getting some quotes to get it resolved, but looks like a costly repair for a new to me car. But at least i'l know the drive train and engine is in good nick after as i am going to get haldex serviced, all oil/fluids changed, & timing belt replaced.
I know these can wear quicker if there is uneven tires or sticking breaks. I have changed all the tires as the old ones where nackered, however they were all the same brand and had reasonably even tread depth. The parking break however is not brilliant at holding the car on any real slope, and when lifting the cover in the back to look at the cable adjustment the cables are not evenly adjusted. I am going to get this looked at at the same time, however do you reckon this could be the cause. Just trying to make sure i cover all basis to stop this happening again down the line.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's the splines stripped. Unfortunately they can often take out the PTU too. Mine has been replaced already.
Yes. Not the sort of expense you want, after just buying an expensive car.
I replaced the whole lot, as nobody seems to be bothered to maintain these things. I found one cable had corroded, which caused binding.
I replaced all 4 rotors, front calipers, parking brake shoes and cables too, just before the MOT last week. This was after I fitted my newly reconditioned rear diff and serviced Haldex.
Just the misfire at 2k RPM to fix now.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Jeepers, you've taken on a lot of work/cost with this motor that you would not have been expecting.
I hope it rewards you with a good number of years trouble free motoring.
My F1 was roughly the same age as yours when I got it. Its transmission destroyed itself (with a bit of help from me probably!) after 3 years of ownership. I got to know the car quite well and put a lot of effort into putting it back together with a lot of help from this forum (crash course in vehicle maintenance) - and I have to say, it has rewarded me with 7 years boringly reliable service. Its been a really great motor as a daily work horse, load puller and taken us and visiting family and friends on lots of great trips to awesome places.
I hope it rewards you with a good number of years trouble free motoring.
My F1 was roughly the same age as yours when I got it. Its transmission destroyed itself (with a bit of help from me probably!) after 3 years of ownership. I got to know the car quite well and put a lot of effort into putting it back together with a lot of help from this forum (crash course in vehicle maintenance) - and I have to say, it has rewarded me with 7 years boringly reliable service. Its been a really great motor as a daily work horse, load puller and taken us and visiting family and friends on lots of great trips to awesome places.
Um - V6?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Discounted as to unreliable and difficult to fix.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I'd rather maintain and fix a V6 FL1 over a FL2 any day. Sure the FL2 is more modern to drive, but it's complicated and expensive, whereas the FL1 V6 is just thirsty on fuel.
I love my FL2, but do think they are far to reliant on delicate mechanical and electronic components.
I wouldn't say difficult, you just need to know what you're doing
Well ok, clearing airlocks in the coolant can be tricky.
And replacing the thermostat housing is a pain in the ****.
Maybe changing the relays in the Jatco box can be a tad awkward.
But, easier to work on than my Disco, but then that doesn't break very much
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GeogreO2717
Member
Afternoon All,
Thought i'd give you all an update on the car. I ended up changing everything at the rear for the handbrake plus 1 of the callipers as it started binding after replacing the rest.
The 4WD ended up being a bit of a mission to sort with a lot of strange questions raised.
Firstly the PTU that was removed is a recon unit, however no garage that's worked on it previously has any records of the PTU being changed and the bolts where merely finger tight. The unit itself seemed off as there was very little resistance when manually turning the PTU compared to the new unit, and the splines had sheared on the gearbox end of the sleeve, with no corresponding damage or metal residue within the gearbox side.
Then after replacing the PTU and servicing the Haldex (looked much like the picture above) everything looked good. However after a simple test drive by the garage the "Transmission fault, reduced traction" message popped up on the dash. Reading the code it appeared to be a solenoid issue, so having heard about that before from their transmission specialists the garage completely stripped the Haldex, blew out all the gunk and refitted it. This has resolved the issue however the Haldex had a couple of bolts that where not standard (random bolts) and 1 had been ground down and rounded. So although the car seems to be working i'm still a little weary about pushing it as it seems to have had a fair amount of bodging done to it previously.
If anyone has an green lanes around buxton that they know would be good first lanes to test the 4WD properly or are willing to join me as rescue then please let me know.
Thought i'd give you all an update on the car. I ended up changing everything at the rear for the handbrake plus 1 of the callipers as it started binding after replacing the rest.
The 4WD ended up being a bit of a mission to sort with a lot of strange questions raised.
Firstly the PTU that was removed is a recon unit, however no garage that's worked on it previously has any records of the PTU being changed and the bolts where merely finger tight. The unit itself seemed off as there was very little resistance when manually turning the PTU compared to the new unit, and the splines had sheared on the gearbox end of the sleeve, with no corresponding damage or metal residue within the gearbox side.
Then after replacing the PTU and servicing the Haldex (looked much like the picture above) everything looked good. However after a simple test drive by the garage the "Transmission fault, reduced traction" message popped up on the dash. Reading the code it appeared to be a solenoid issue, so having heard about that before from their transmission specialists the garage completely stripped the Haldex, blew out all the gunk and refitted it. This has resolved the issue however the Haldex had a couple of bolts that where not standard (random bolts) and 1 had been ground down and rounded. So although the car seems to be working i'm still a little weary about pushing it as it seems to have had a fair amount of bodging done to it previously.
If anyone has an green lanes around buxton that they know would be good first lanes to test the 4WD properly or are willing to join me as rescue then please let me know.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Wow, that's a sorry tale!
Some **** has really abused that motor. And you're the one footing the bills.
I hope it otherwise turns out a reliable motor for you.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
This is all sounding very much like mine, although on different components.
There are some absolute cowboys out there, doing substandard work on vehicles which need utmost care.
Hopefully you'll get some good use out of it now.
