marjon said:
Any idea what it used to be?
Click to expand...
So what is this thing which caused all this damage?
I believe that what is in the cylinder, is the mangled remains of one of these, two of which were missing.
20200802_175759.jpg
It's either one of the missing nuts from the fuel filter crash guard, or one just like it.
The mangled remains are definitely a nut, most likely an M6 flange nut. I suspect it was dropped in to the boost pipe, which was probably removed from the manifold, so access to the oil filter was better.
There's a trap for young players, if a nut or bolt goes missing, make sure it's found, before starting the engine.
 
Last edited:
Yep, it looks a lot more like the remains of a nut from seeing it in that second picture. How will you be proceeding, New engine, repair that one or another path?
 
Nodge68 said:
So what is this thing which caused all this damage?
I believe that what is in the cylinder, is the mangled remains of one of these, two of which were missing. View attachment 216136It's either one of the missing nuts from the fuel pump crash guard, or one just like it.
The mangled remains are definitely a nut, most likely an M6 flange nut. I suspect it was dropped in to the boost pipe, which was probably removed from the manifold, so access to the oil filter was better.
There's a trap for young players, if a nut or bolt goes missing, make sure it's found, before starting the engine.
Click to expand...

I believe inspector Nodge may have got it.

Looks like a mangled 1 I have to say:(.

That’s another reason I use magnetic trays:) good when working upside down too:D.

J
 
marjon said:
I believe inspector Nodge may have got it.

Looks like a mangled 1 I have to say:(.

That’s another reason I use magnetic trays:) good when working upside down too:D.

J
Click to expand...

No good for the old brass manifold nuts on a Series tho ... ;)
 
marjon said:
Will that cleanup enough to run?
Click to expand...
The piston is fubar, and will need replacing.
marjon said:
No bent valves?
Click to expand...
I'm coming to that.
Exhaust on the left, inlet on the right, all are bent to a greater or lesser extent.
20200802_163017.jpg

paul99 said:
What does the underside of the head itself look like?
Click to expand...

Here it is. I reckon it's salvageable, as the valves took most of the battering.
This was before I cleaned it up.
20200802_163353.jpg

This was after the valves were removed. Along with the nut remains that did all the damage.
20200802_163911.jpg


There are some pits and dinks, but I reckon it'll probably be ok, once I've cleaned up the impact points.

Two of the valve guides are cracked, which I'll need to replace, so more bits of metal don't find there way in to the compression chamber.
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
The piston is fubar, and will need replacing.

I'm coming to that.
Exhaust on the left, inlet on the right, all are bent to a greater or lesser extent.
View attachment 216138


Here it is. I reckon it's saleable, as the valves took most of the battering.
This was before I cleaned it up.
View attachment 216140
This was after the valves were removed. Along with the nut remains that did all the damage. View attachment 216142

There are some pits and dinks, but I reckon it'll probably be ok, once I've cleaned up the impact points.

Two of the valve guides are cracked, which I'll need to replace, so more bits of metal don't find there way in to the compression chamber.
Click to expand...

Might have to 'tidy' the valve recess' too ... a few nicks here and there ... some 00 steel wool and she'll be sweet ...
 
marjon said:
I believe inspector Nodge may have got it.

Looks like a mangled 1 I have to say:(.

That’s another reason I use magnetic trays:) good when working upside down too:D.

J
Click to expand...

It's an easy and completely avoidable situation.

Of course I'm now going to need to fix the engine, and remove the intercooler pipe, just to make sure there's no more missing nuts hiding inside.
 
Dippypud said:
Might have to 'tidy' the valve recess' too ... a few nicks here and there ... some 00 steel wool and she'll be sweet ...
Click to expand...

There's a few places where the aluminium has peened over the valve seat, which actually appears to have saved the seats from too much impact damage.
20200802_152555.jpg

I can grind this peening away, and hopefully restore the valve seat enough for it to seal.

The piston definitely took the brunt of the damage, which is annoying as it's a bugger to get them out on these, as the balancer shafts need removing first.
20200802_163637.jpg
:(
 
Dippypud said:
No good for the old brass manifold nuts on a Series tho ... ;)
Click to expand...

Not sure a brass nut would have done so much damage, but point taken:)

Nodge68 said:
Exhaust on the left, inlet on the right, all are bent to a greater or lesser extent.
Click to expand...

Last time I saw a valve that wobbly was when I was a bad boy on my Zed.

Is it worth the money or would a £200 breaker engine not be a better option?

J
 
Nodge68 said:
There's a few places where the aluminium has peened over the valve seat, which actually appears to have saved the seats from too much impact damage.
View attachment 216148
I can grind this peening away, and hopefully restore the valve seat enough for it to seal.

The piston definitely took the brunt of the damage, which is annoying as it's a bugger to get them out on these, as the balancer shafts need removing first. View attachment 216150 :(
Click to expand...

Sorry that seat looks fubar too.
Or is it the pic.

J
 
Nodge68 said:
You can't get a FL2 engine for £200. Working engines change hands for over £1200+ shipping, so that's not an option here.

It'll be repaired, on a sensible budget.
Click to expand...

Best of luck with tickling it ...
 
ouch... I take it you are planning an in frame rebuild, that one piston only?
God luck with the rest of the work..
 
SWalker said:
ouch...
Click to expand...
That's what I thought when I saw it.
SWalker said:
I take it you are planning an in frame rebuild, that one piston only?
Click to expand...
Yes. The engine will be remaining in the vehicle, and I'll be accessing the rod from below, and only on that one piston. It looks easy to get the sump off, it's only the balancer shafts that are my main concern, as I don't want to buy locking tools for them, if I can avoid it. I'm hoping I can get to the rod cap, without removing the balancer shaft assembly, but I'll not know until I get the sump off.
 
Hi John.
All i can say is WOW how did the car run with that damage? now you know why it as decent injectors, someone must have thought that was the trouble, good luck with the repair and big thank you for the ongoing photo pictorial ;) cardinal sin dropping a nut bolt & then think i will leave it, or find another to replace it without finding where the nut/bolt as dropped into / or its whereabouts, lots of garage mechanics do it :mad: bone idleness, but lets remember 99% time its not there car so why worry. Take a good look at the sump as well why you are there as they can rust from the outside, bad ones will have pinholes.
 
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