If I can get another ECU running, then I'll put my current ECU in the oven and heat it to around 100°C. This should allow the PCB to be released from the glue keeping it firmly in place. Obviously I can't do this until I've got a replacement, as it could be a one way trip. I've spoken to 2 different ECU repair places, both have said that this type of ECU is default to repair, as it's bonded to the chassis, which is also the heat sink.
The ECU is on its way to you now - if you plug it in as is the engine should start and run for a few seconds before the immobiliser realises it isn't the right one for your vehicle and shuts it down. That should tell you it if it fires all four injectors from cold, you will only need to get it recoded for your car then and hopefully it will all be sorted.
 
Could the ecu have previously been opened for chip tuning? as I know some cars cannot be flash tuned via the obd.
 
The ECU is on its way to you now - if you plug it in as is the engine should start and run for a few seconds before the immobiliser realises it isn't the right one for your vehicle and shuts it down. That should tell you it if it fires all four injectors from cold, you will only need to get it recoded for your car then and hopefully it will all be sorted.
It's interesting that the engine should run. I'd have thought that the immobiliser would prevent it starting at all, if the codes don't match. If it runs on all 4, even briefly, then that's a good start.

I'm hoping that I can get the cable working, but at the moment, the driver seems illusive.

The main concern is getting SDD to see the cable. I also think I might have an issue with the OBD2 port, as I can't get anything to connect at the moment, except my Icarsoft I930. My IID BT won't connect, nor will my generic ELM327 with torque, so the could be another issue.

Do you know. Can the Mongoose Pro clone cable be configured without it being plugged into the OBD2 port on the car?

Thanks again for sending me the ECU.
That's very generous of you.
 
Could the ecu have previously been opened for chip tuning? as I know some cars cannot be flash tuned via the obd.

The ECU in the vehicle has been very in-expertly opened before, and apparently its from a later FL2, maybe around 2010, whereas mine is a 2008.

Someone has been playing games, and not very well going by the quality of work carried out. :(
 
It's interesting that the engine should run. I'd have thought that the immobiliser would prevent it starting at all, if the codes don't match. If it runs on all 4, even briefly, then that's a good start.

I'm hoping that I can get the cable working, but at the moment, the driver seems illusive.

The main concern is getting SDD to see the cable. I also think I might have an issue with the OBD2 port, as I can't get anything to connect at the moment, except my Icarsoft I930. My IID BT won't connect, nor will my generic ELM327 with torque, so the could be another issue.

Do you know. Can the Mongoose Pro clone cable be configured without it being plugged into the OBD2 port on the car?

Thanks again for sending me the ECU.
That's very generous of you.


Bent pin/socket on the obd? or one of the pins pushed out the back of the obd socket, see it quite a bit at work, first clue is diag tool will either not connect at all, or something will be missing, like transmission.
 
Nodge, I've replied on Freel2 and if you pm me an email address I will send you the Drew Technologies 32 bit installer package - I can't seem to attach a file to a pm.
The ECU I've sent you has been opened up by me so it could be reprogrammed to my car in a BDM frame. It ran fine after this (possibly with a 190bhp remap) but it wasn't the exactly the same number as my original and it cut out on me a couple of times. It always restarted though and I think that the problem may have been in the map or the checksum but I lost my nerve and reverted to my original ECU. I've since bought another ECU with the correct number for my car so I can try again which is why the one I sent you is spare but certainly good enough for experimenting with.
 
Bent pin/socket on the obd? or one of the pins pushed out the back of the obd socket, see it quite a bit at work, first clue is diag tool will either not connect at all, or something will be missing, like transmission.
I agree - my Mongoose cable and two Bluetooth OBD adapters all connect up ok and work fine on my car so it looks like something is wrong here.
 
It's interesting that the engine should run. I'd have thought that the immobiliser would prevent it starting at all, if the codes don't match. If it runs on all 4, even briefly, then that's a good start.
I was just speaking from my experience when I first got the ECU I have sent to you - it was still coded for the vehicle it came off and I plugged it in, in place of mine, expecting it to not start at all but it did start and run for a couple of seconds before shutting down. Ignition off and on again and it would do the same each time.
 
Bent pin/socket on the obd? or one of the pins pushed out the back of the obd socket, see it quite a bit at work, first clue is diag tool will either not connect at all, or something will be missing, like transmission.
That's what I'm expecting, it's just not in the best place to be looking at such issues. :(
Nodge, I've replied on Freel2 and if you pm me an email address I will send you the Drew Technologies 32 bit installer package - I can't seem to attach a file to a pm.
Will do. Thanks for your help. :)
The ECU I've sent you has been opened up by me so it could be reprogrammed to my car in a BDM frame. It ran fine after this (possibly with a 190bhp remap) but it wasn't the exactly the same number as my original and it cut out on me a couple of times. It always restarted though and I think that the problem may have been in the map or the checksum but I lost my nerve and reverted to my original ECU. I've since bought another ECU with the correct number for my car so I can try again which is why the one I sent you is spare but certainly good enough for experimenting with.
That's good to know.
The ECU I've sent you has been opened up by me so it could be reprogrammed to my car in a BDM frame. It ran fine after this (possibly with a 190bhp remap) but it wasn't the exactly the same number as my original and it cut out on me a couple of times. It always restarted though and I think that the problem may have been in the map or the checksum but I lost my nerve and reverted to my original ECU. I've since bought another ECU with the correct number for my car so I can try again which is why the one I sent you is spare but certainly good enough for experimenting with.

I agree - my Mongoose cable and two Bluetooth OBD adapters all connect up ok and work fine on my car so it looks like something is wrong here.

Yes. I've got to ensure the OBD2 port connections are sound, as I suspect there's an issue. It was OK when I got it, but after I set up my IID, the port suddenly stopped working, so the only diagnostic device that now works is the I930.

At the moment I feel this car is throwing faults at me, just for fun. :(
 
I've replied on Freel2 and if you pm me an email address I will send you the Drew Technologies 32 bit installer package - I can't seem to attach a file to a pm
It's working. :)
20201108_155655.jpg


As it turns out, you don't connect the Mongoose until the completion of the installation.

I agree - my Mongoose cable and two Bluetooth OBD adapters all connect up ok and work fine on my car so it looks like something is wrong here.

I've plugged it into my car, without a battery maintainer (it's pretty much fully charged and new) and I can read the VIN, and see what modules are fitted, and see how to do some PTM/ECU modifications like coding of injectors. However I couldn't see anything about changing the PTM/ECU, but I did need to cut the testing short, as I got a low battery warning on the radio screen. It's not that low, as the engine started just fine after I'd disconnected SDD.

So now I need to investigate the options on how to replace the PTM/ECU.
 
You'll get her together ;)
I would if I had a degree in computer science.;)
Unfortunately I left the automotive trade when injection was still pretty new, and cars had a lot less electronics stuff going on. This FL2 has modules everywhere, even in the doors, to control what goes on in there.:eek: It seems excessive to me. :oops:
 
I would if I had a degree in computer science.;)
Unfortunately I left the automotive trade when injection was still pretty new, and cars had a lot less electronics stuff going on. This FL2 has modules everywhere, even in the doors, to control what goes on in there.:eek: It seems excessive to me. :oops:
The price you pay with modern Tech, I own thounsands of pounds worth of tools, and I'd say a good almost 1/2 of the entire cost is diagnostics equipment!
 
The price you pay with modern Tech, I own thounsands of pounds worth of tools, and I'd say a good almost 1/2 of the entire cost is diagnostics equipment!

I'm getting that way too, only I spent as little as possible on the techie stuff.:eek:

Any idea how I use SDD to replace the PTM/ECU?
 
No idea, Nodge never done it myself!

Unfortunately!

That makes 2 of us then.:p

Once I've worked out how to replace the PTM/ECU, I can move on to the mechanical stuff like brake rotors and pads. I much prefer doing stuff I understand.;)
 
I find a certain irony in the way this story has unfolded, it stated off with a cheap FL2 running on 3 / misfire, which led to a partial engine rebuild because some twonk (not nodge) let the engine ingest a nut, and now it's a wall of Three Letter Acronyms and computer babble. I'm actually wondering if the twonk who dropped the offending nut in the engine, did so while the injectors were out as part of his investigations into the misfire we suspect is being caused by the ECU fault that Nodge is working on now? That would be ironic.
 

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