Been there done that a few times, Fil told me as a kid lend it once fine, twice ok, third time buy your own.
Been there done that a few times, Fil told me as a kid lend it once fine, twice ok, third time buy your own.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Been there, done that. I won't lend or borrow anything now. I've lost loads of tools over the years, including torque wrenches, spanners, pair of old style DIY ramps and a large floor jack, and probably loads more stuff that "walked" out of my tool cabinet, when I wasn't looking.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Ever so slightly back on topic.
The FL2 engine starts up ok, after a few seconds of cranking. However it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, until its warmed up.
So I reckon it's an injector not playing ball, which is odd, because they look like they've been reconditioned.
I can't identify which one it is electronically, as it appears the PTM used on this engine doesn't record PID information or codes.
So I'm left with simple substitution as a means of identification. I suppose I could unplug each injector in turn, until I find the one with the fault, but this carries an element of risk to the injector driver circuit.
So that leaves substitution as a primary way to identify the duff one.
My thought is to change the injector, that was in the cylinder with the issue first. This injector could have been damaged by numerous hits by the nut, as it bounced about in the combustion chamber. The injector pintle is pretty sturdy, but I'm thinking that maybe the impacts have jarred something inside, causing it to stick.
Any other thoughts or ideas on this are most welcome.
The FL2 engine starts up ok, after a few seconds of cranking. However it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, until its warmed up.
So I reckon it's an injector not playing ball, which is odd, because they look like they've been reconditioned.
I can't identify which one it is electronically, as it appears the PTM used on this engine doesn't record PID information or codes.
So I'm left with simple substitution as a means of identification. I suppose I could unplug each injector in turn, until I find the one with the fault, but this carries an element of risk to the injector driver circuit.
So that leaves substitution as a primary way to identify the duff one.
My thought is to change the injector, that was in the cylinder with the issue first. This injector could have been damaged by numerous hits by the nut, as it bounced about in the combustion chamber. The injector pintle is pretty sturdy, but I'm thinking that maybe the impacts have jarred something inside, causing it to stick.
Any other thoughts or ideas on this are most welcome.
raywin
Well-Known Member
I know the exhaust manifold is not easy to access, but if you could put a cheap infra red temperature sensor on each leg of the manifold just after starting one of them should be cooler than the others, and that should be the one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Digit...368776?hash=item56e02f1288:g:2FAAAOSwADZfaaVP
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Digit...368776?hash=item56e02f1288:g:2FAAAOSwADZfaaVP
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Thats not a bad idea, although getting to the exhaust manifold is virtually impossible.
I was thinking of using my old school stethoscope on each injector in turn, as I'm sure I should be able to hear them ticking, except the non functional one. The driver stack is obviously ok, as it's not returning an open or to ground injector code. So presumably its a mechanical issue in the injector.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
She runs!!!
View attachment 219554
It was a little lumpy at first, but after it ran for a while, it seems to run pretty well, better than I was expecting.
I'll see how it goes over the next few months, and add anything significant here.
Hi John.
I have just caught up with your rebuild
great to hear she is running, how did you get on with bleeding the fuel system using the tool attached in the photo, i should imagine you were over joyed when she burst into life, the swirl manifold i have gutted needs to be fitted yet on mine, also i have got all my fluids to do before the end off October, are you going to deal with your Haldex filter etc. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and adding the photos at the same time, which does make the job a little longer
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've done a short video clip of it running too.I have just caught up with your rebuild
I've recorded several hours of video of me doing lots of work on this engine, which I'm planning on editing and uploading when time allows.
Yes I was pretty happy. It took 3 attempts for it to fire, but this was good, as it meant the oil pressure light extinguished before it fired. It actually fired almost immediately after the oil light went out, so maybe the PTM delays the start until there is oil pressure is up?
Unfortunately it started on 3 cylinders, it did improve as it warmed up. I know the replacement piston will take a while to be at full power, but the misfire when cold which I suspect an injector.
I think the flaps failing is going to be an increasingly common problem.
I'm going to do mine too. I've just been through the various specs, so I can find equivalents to the silly price LR stuff.
The other annoying thing is the lack of drain plugs, requiring all the fluids be sucked out.
Yes I'm going to do the Haldex fluid and filter too, again once I've found a sensible price for the stuff I need.
No problem. It's good to get this information out there, so owners can feel more confident about doing there own work. It does take more time, but it's worth it for the greater good.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately it's not easy on this engine, as the injectors don't use standard leak off fittings.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Hi John.
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it so i i thought i may as well get another one, got this for £25 including P&P. which arrived today.
1
Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box
2
So now i have a spare for when it needs doing in the future.
3
I also have the Haldex fluid and filter from this link below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Fo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it
so i i thought i may as well get another one, got this for £25 including P&P. which arrived today.
Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box
So now i have a spare for when it needs doing in the future.
I also have the Haldex fluid and filter from this link below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Fo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Ever so slightly back on topic.
The FL2 engine starts up ok, after a few seconds of cranking. However it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, until its warmed up.
So I reckon it's an injector not playing ball, which is odd, because they look like they've been reconditioned.
I can't identify which one it is electronically, as it appears the PTM used on this engine doesn't record PID information or codes.
So I'm left with simple substitution as a means of identification. I suppose I could unplug each injector in turn, until I find the one with the fault, but this carries an element of risk to the injector driver circuit.
So that leaves substitution as a primary way to identify the duff one.
My thought is to change the injector, that was in the cylinder with the issue first. This injector could have been damaged by numerous hits by the nut, as it bounced about in the combustion chamber. The injector pintle is pretty sturdy, but I'm thinking that maybe the impacts have jarred something inside, causing it to stick.
Any other thoughts or ideas on this are most welcome.
Laset temp gun aimed at the ex maniifold or cyl head?
raywin
Well-Known Member
At the individual manifold branches, it is probably best before the whole manifold gets hot, but the cylinder which is not firing should be cooler.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
That kind of thing happens to me quite alot.Hi John.
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it
1
Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box
2
So now i have a spare for when it needs doing in the future.
I have one of this type and the extension rods are really handy.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht171-mechanics-stethoscope/
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The tool was simple to use Arctic. Its actually very reminiscent of the primer bulbs that used to be fitted to lots of old school Peugeot/Citroėn diesels, before electric lift pumps were used.
I've actually considered splicing such a bulb into the fuel supply line permanently, just to make fuel system bleeding easier.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That looks like an OE filler Arctic2. Do you have a link?It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it
1
Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box
That's a good price, saved to my watch list.
The manifold is almost impossible to access, as it's under a heat shield, which is below the EGR cooler assembly.
If only it were easy to access it.
And me. I lost the copper injector seals, 2 days after I'd received them, only to find them again, after I'd put the injectors back in using the old seals.
That's what I've used for decades.
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Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
@Arctic2
A genuine / OEapparently has the word PurFlex on the top. My filter was a cheap unknown, apparently of German origin, so I'll see how that works.
Apparently some cheap filters cause power loss when hot, so I'll see how it goes. If I have to replace it then I'll swap it for an OE part.
Off topic.
Do you have an IID? I've picked one up recently, but I'm pretty disappointed that the programming options for the FL2 are really limited by comparison to the programming options for the D3 I had.
A genuine / OEapparently has the word PurFlex on the top. My filter was a cheap unknown, apparently of German origin, so I'll see how that works.
Off topic.
Do you have an IID? I've picked one up recently, but I'm pretty disappointed that the programming options for the FL2 are really limited by comparison to the programming options for the D3 I had.
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kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Another off topic one. Who made the engine out of that bunch? I assume PSA?
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Co-developed by Ford Duratorq/ PSA Peugeot Citroen.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_Freelander
