With the amount of valve grinding, will the hydraulic lifters (or whatever it has!) be able to accommodate the valve clearances ok?
Just a thought for my info really??

It uses hydraulic tappets, and there should be enough free space to take up the difference. The value seats are really hard, so although it took me days of lapping with wet n dry paper and finally grinding paste, the amount the valves receded was minimal.

My main concern is this CRASH mode code, which apparently can't be removed without it going to LR. :(
 
Wonder how garage started it?
Wonder why it appeared when you got home?
What does it think has crashed? Engine related or a parallel problem unconnected?

Questions but no answers at this stage, apologies but it does seem odd.
 
Wonder how garage started it?
Wonder why it appeared when you got home?
What does it think has crashed? Engine related or a parallel problem unconnected?

I caused the CRASH mode to activate, after I got it home.

I was trying to start it, when that nut jammed the engine, stopping it from cranking. The battery was almost out of power, and when the starter locked, the battery voltage plummeted (obviously below the 7 Volts threshold), which is part of the BCM/CJB CRASH routine. When the CRASH routine was activated, the door locks popped up, the interior lights came on, the ignition went off, and the hazard lights started flashing.

From this point on, I charged the battery, disconnected the starter trigger wire, and tried to turn the ignition on, but the display just flashed CRASH on the LCD and it did nothing else, so it was locked out.
I was able to clear some relevant codes, but the CRASH code won't clear.

I'm hoping that all the messing about and time between then and now might allow the engine to run without the code being cleared, but I'm not at that stage yet.

I've been looking around the net, but can't find anything definite as to whether the car will start or not, although it does appear that only LR can remove the CRASH code from the BCU/JCB.
 
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Today I started to reasonable the camshaft assembly, but I had to clean off an accumulation of sealers first.
Unfortunately the incorrect sealer had been used last time the engine was apart, so this needed loads of cleaning, and it was also visible in the various bearing drain slots, which is a perfect example as to why silicone isn't suitable for this type of joint.
20200906_181948.jpg


After 2 hours of cleaning, scrubbing and plenty of spray brake cleaner and finally Meths wipe on seal faces, it looked like this.
20200906_131919.jpg


The next thing was to identify the different colour chain links, which wasn't easy, so they were marked more clearly with a Sharpie.
20200906_150049.jpg

Once the timing marks on the cams were aligned with the marks on the chain, the cams were rested back on the bearings, this was after all the rockers were refitted to the head and literally lubricated with clean oil.
20200906_150718.jpg

Finally the cleaned top cover had a thin bead of the correct sealer applied to the areas marked in the manual, before it was bolted into place, using the correct tightening sequence and torque, on all 27 bolts. :eek:
20200906_161910.jpg


That's where I left it for today.

I can't move much more forward due to lack of parts, but those will arrive this week, so hopefully I'll get the engine turning over next weekend, although due to the crash error, I don't know if it'll start. :(
 
I forgot that I also fitted a new oil filter and took the opportunity to lubricate the cams with 6 litres of this.
20200906_184427.jpg
 
I wonder was the previous work done by a mechanic or DIY? It doesn't sound like they had much of a clue if they didn't even know what sealant to use never mind the dropped nut.
How far are you now?
 
I wonder was the previous work done by a mechanic or DIY? It doesn't sound like they had much of a clue if they didn't even know what sealant to use never mind the dropped nut.
How far are you now?

It appears that a lot of work carried out on the vehicle, was done by a quad bike/off road maintenance workshop. I don't think the work done was bad, just not by the book. However if a nut is dropped while working on an engine intake, the engine must never be started, until the nut is found. The law of sod dictates, that the nut will get ingested and cause damage. :eek:

I'm getting there Ali.
I'm at this stage now.
20200913_111700.jpg


The timing belt is on, and the engine is hanging on its mounts again. :) The coolant tank is back in too, and all the coolant pipes are reconnected. Just the intake manifold, injector harness and low pressure fuel supply system to go.

The starter is now fitted, so I cranked it over for about a minute this morning, as I needed the oil to circulate and I wanted to get an idea of how much compression the engine was delivering. The good news is the valves I've spent ages cutting in don't seem to be leaking much, as there is compression in No2 (the damaged one) however the compression in the other 3 cylinder is better. I'm hoping this will improve when the piston rings bed in to the bore. Time will tell on that, but fingers crossed for getting the engine running next weekend.
 
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I think anyone reading this will have everything crossed for ya. I love reading Norfolk garage in LRM & this is on par, good luck.
 
Great news, well done for persevering!! Many would have given up when they saw the extent of the damage.

Hope the vehicle repays you with much enjoyment! :D
 
She runs!!!:D:D:D
View attachment 219554
It was a little lumpy at first, but after it ran for a while, it seems to run pretty well, better than I was expecting. :)

I'll see how it goes over the next few months, and add anything significant here.
Fantastic, how satisfying is that after realising you had to do more than you bargained for. Hope thats all you have to do for a while. How did you get round the 'crash' bit? :D
 
Well done nodge always knew you’d do it with your knowledge it wasn’t so much if it ran it was when and once again you’ve sorted it out and kept us all well informed at the same time
 
Fantastic, how satisfying is that after realising you had to do more than you bargained for. Hope thats all you have to do for a while. How did you get round the 'crash' bit? :D
I'm glad it's back together, as I'm seriously behind with the garden/garage jobs I was doing, before the FL2 came along, and my hobbies have taken a real hit too.

There's going to be some teething problems I'm sure. One of the injectors seems to be sticking, causing it to run rough for a couple of minutes after starting. I'm hoping that's just trapped air in the injector, but I guess time will tell. For the moment, I'm going to drive it gently, so the piston rings can bed in.

The crash thing just seems to require the ignition being cycled a few times. I can't clear that code, but as long as it's logged as historic, I'm not bothered.

I've got to get this new LR added to my IID BT, so I can "tweak" the vehicle CCFs, and do some software upgrades too. It doesn't have the clock on the Ipack LCD, so I'll add that, and I want to upgrade to the 3 flash indicators, which this year of FL2 doesn't have, but the IID will take care of those upgrades. The only thing I'd like is the Xenon headlamp, but those are expensive, so will need to keep an eye out for some bargains.

I also need look at the injector offset, and potentially graph them, so I can see which one is messing about.
 
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Good work Nodge, I've been following this thread with interest and glad it's running again
You can't beat the feeling of satisfaction
I remember when I changed a fuel injector on my old TD4 after reading some horror stories about getting them out, but it all went well and my mate just happened to rock up as I'd finished up and was preparing for the first start...
I'd like the clock on my info centre and I'm missing the instant fuel consumption too...
 
I wonder was the previous work done by a mechanic or DIY? It doesn't sound like they had much of a clue if they didn't even know what sealant to use never mind the dropped nut.
How far are you now?

Never assume the pros do a better job than the diy guy, scary what goes on in garages!
 
10/10 for this thread. It’s been both educational and entertaining. I really hope after all that work the car gives years of reliable service.
 
Never assume the pros do a better job than the diy guy, scary what goes on in garages!

I stopped working in the automotive industry, because I couldn't stand the way they treated the customers or their cars. I'm too honest, and too caring, to stand by and watch what goes on. I also couldn't stand the garage owner's son, who took over running the business, and they moved to 24hr call outs, which I hated, so I left the industry.
 
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