comdek · Feb 5, 2017

Hello all.

In December of 2015 I changed the front head gasket because the head had a small crack in the part of the cylinder 5. I sent for maintenance and soldered it and solved it with a new head gasket.

After changed I runned about 10,000 km with car, but began to present the problem of overheating again. I checked by pressurizing the coolant and the cylinder 3 was leaking inside. I removed the head and found the head gasket completely rusted, dismantling in the hands.

I used coolant solution (50% fluid + 50% tap water), but I've never seen a head gasket if it ends quickly.

I checked the cylinder and it needs burnishing. So I'll take the engine off and send the whole for maintenance.

Questions. To remove the rear axle from IRD, just remove those 6 bolts? What is the torx number?

I removed the radiator to make it easier to remove the head, but I broke the bubble outlet. You can use glue to fix?

The lower tie mount disintegrated with polypropylene.

freelance · Feb 5, 2017

Try oat technology with 50% de-ionised water for coolant

Nodge68 · Feb 5, 2017

What coolant did you use. I've never seen rust like that, unless water was used.

comdek · Feb 6, 2017

I think the problem was the poor quality of the Britpart head gasket.
I removed the gasket from the other head which is original and was in perfect condition.

davidsmith1307 · Feb 6, 2017

But when the head gasket was changed was the engine refilled with OAT coolant or plain water? A year in water would have ruined either gasket.

comdek · Feb 6, 2017

50% OAT 50% water.

I'm going to buy the original head gasket now. The original LR is Victor Reinz?

Nodge68 · Feb 6, 2017

I've heard that the Britpart gaskets are garbage. I always use OE gaskets. There's nothing worse that doing a job twice.

comdek · Feb 6, 2017

I have 3 options of head gasket to buy here:

OSAKA KANSAI
Britpart
Victor Reinz

How is the best?

GrumpyGel · Feb 6, 2017

comdek said:
I have 3 options of head gasket to buy here:

OSAKA KANSAI
Britpart
Victor Reinz

How is the best?

I don't know where you are, but you have to live in a pretty dodgy place for parts suppliers in the UK not to ship to you.

Granted, it may take a bit longer to ship from the UK - but not always!

comdek · Feb 7, 2017

I can buy in the UK, but shipping and customs costs ends up being expensive. I found here a kit that comes all the gaskets and valve seals with a good price, manufacturer Victor Reinz. I looked this manufacturer on the internet and it looks like it is the supplier of Land Rover (OEM). Does this proceed?

To install the timing belt, LR special tool is necessary, as I will remove the camshafts to change seals. Is there any tool design on the internet to build this tool at home?

Today I took the radiator to clean and repair the bubble tube that I broke. It's new.

Nodge68 · Feb 7, 2017

It's not essential to use the locking tools. However it does help hold everything in the correct place.

As long as the crank is locked in the timing position and the two rear cam pulleys are lined up, the front pulleys will be closo enough. Look in my sig for belt change information

comdek · Feb 14, 2017

Some activity updates. I removed the engine for maintenance. Already removed the IRD and washed it. Lost +-500ml ATF oil.

To take out the automatic gearbox, I will find something to fix the liners so they do not move, because it is necessary to rotate the crankshaft to release the torque converter.

Some rust on the block. Is there any method to check for a liner leak (coolant to oil)?

Alibro · Feb 14, 2017

Looks like your very busy. Good luck with the rebuild.
But please put something else under that car to support it before you go under again. It scares me every time I see it.

comdek · Feb 15, 2017

I used 2 mecanical jacks on sides and 1 hydraulic in center of the car.
To put the engine again, I'll think in something more safer, lol.

comdek · Feb 18, 2017

Today I removed the gearbox from the engine. In the torque converter I see the gears has 2 teeths missing for the ECU detects RPM and PMS position by RPM sensor.

In the assembly I´ll doubt, because the torque converter is possible to mount it in 4 positions, the 4 bolts have the same drilling distances.

A lot of rust is stored near the drain bolt on the cylinder 5.

More pics of disassemle. Fixed the liners. Removed torque converter and drain ATF oil. I´ll change the seals from flywheel and torque converter.

Nodge68 · Feb 18, 2017

To ensure you get the timing correct. You need to mark the torque converter to the flex plate. If it's not fitted in the correct position, the engine won't run.

comdek · Feb 19, 2017

Found this info in REV manual.

Nodge68 · Feb 19, 2017

comdek said:
Found this info in REV manual.
View attachment 117753

And the relevance is?

The TC still needs to be fitted to the flex plate in the correct holes. If this is not done, crankshaft position can't be identified.

comdek · Feb 20, 2017

I forgot to mark the position. The manual says the gap in reductor ring is in ATDC of cylinder 1. Thats helps to assemble the TC in correct position again.

comdek · Feb 22, 2017

Today I washed the Jatco autobox. Put pressurized water in the oil cooler and some rust came out. I applied WD40 Rust Remover and will leave it for 24hrs for cleaning, then wash again and test for leaks (water <-oil->).

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