BarcombeBoy

BarcombeBoy

Member
Hello.

I'm hoping someone here might be able to advise me on wiring and head unit choice. I've attached photo to show existing stock setup.

I am converting my Freelander 1 to camp/travel in and can't live with existing audio so am upgrading it as cheaply as possible. I've ordered a pair of speakers and a subwoofer/bass unit to fit under the pasenger seat:

* JVC CS-J620X 6.5" 16.5cm 2 Way 600 Watts Car Van Door Coaxial Speakers Pair (NOTE: I am disconnecting the rear speakers)
* In Phase USW300 underseat subwoofer (300w peak, come with amp and crossover)

I will using my Android phone for music and sat nav so at base all I really need from a headunit is:

* Good sound
* Bluetooth (APTX)
* Volume control

I have two main questions:

Question 1: what is my best bet for headunit to fit the space I have (which seems to be 7.2"wd x 4.72ht) and do I rip out all that is there and get some sort of correct sized Android screen thingy or just change one of the (what appears to be) 3 distinct units for a conventional headunit (I do not need a CD player). I don't need the flash Android screen stuff but would probably like it... I just don't want to pay too much for it.

Question 2: Wiring. I've never wired car audio before but am pretty handy with wiring in general. In my simple world all I have to do is run power and speaker cables from the new headunit to the subwoofer and connect the existing speaker cables to the new speaker cables somewhere behind the head unit (I'm disconnecting the back speakers as they are hidden under the bed now). However I know it'll not be that simple as there seems to be volume controls on the steering column and I'm sure esoteric cables/connectors are required. I am at a loss here and any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

Freelander 1.jpg
 
Hi,

You a need a 2 din adaptater, and also a connector adaptater. You can find one on ebay.

Since you have audio control on the steering wheel, take one connector adaptater that have the option.
 
Last edited:
Alteredtech said:
a connector adaptater.
Click to expand...
Presumably you can just remove the speakers in the back.

I believe that some models have a subwoofer in the fishtank storage box in the floor in the rear. You'll presumably have to rewire that to under the seat. Some models had a CD stacker under the seat, you may be able to repurpose the wiring for that if you have it - or the redundant wiring for one if its there.
 
Thanks both.
I'm trying to track down the adpaters but it's a confusing world. There seems to be lots of different 2 din adaptors and connection adaptors (with connection for steering wheel volume controls).

The audio system consist of only the stuff in the photo plus front and rear door speakers, nothing more. It's dead simple. Im just going to disconnect the back door speakers as the bed covers them so they won't be heard (I've removed the back seats). I can't see any point in removing them.

Late edit: There's a connector hanging lose in the storage box though... I guess I'll just be disconnecting it.

Get your comment about 'fishtank'. Mine's been very wet and it's worried me as not good for sleeping on. I've just silicon sealed all the plastic screw mounts for the lid hinges in the hope this stops it. Although, whilst doing it I did notice a 2" split in the door seal. :-(
 
Last edited:
The connector in the storage box is for the originolly fitted sub woofer. There are a lots of posts regarding water in the storage box and how to fix it, you'll have to search the threads to find them.
 
If you have redundant wiring for a sub woofer it will probably be encased in a loom that you don't want to break into to extract them all the way back to the front seat.

So you can probably follow the wiring on a diagram back to the head unit to identify the wires there.

If you also have redundant wiring for a under seat CD stacker, then pick a couple of those wires (I'm assuming you need 2), follow them back to the same area and you could use them rather than ripping trim and carpet out to relay new. You may even be able to get a connector to plug into the socket under the seat and wire up the pins you choose.

The Rave workshop manual has full wiring diagrams and even has pictures of all the connectors so that you can identify where they are, I assume it includes the audio system...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Rave disk maintenance manual

I'm putting this ere so I can link to it. If you can see adverts on this page selling car repair manuals, DONT click on them. They're sneaky adverts from google which detect words used in this fred, on the chance you will be attracted to click on said advert. The adverts are trying to get you...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Thanks. I am hoping it will be loud enough for that!

That Rave stuff looks interesting. Will download them and have a look. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all your help in this.

As a result I have successfully installed a used Pioneer FH-S720BT 2-DIN bluetooth head unit, a InPhase USW under seat subwoofer and a pair of JVC CS-J620X 600W speakers in the front door. Installing it was not too difficult but setting it up has been surprisingly painful.

There are just many sound options to fiddle with and once you think you've got the sound right you play a different song and it sounds all to cock again. In fact, it almost took longer to set the sound up than to install it.

The sound is loud and pretty good (although treble can be a little sibilant) and almost covers up all the squeaks, rattles and knocks the vehicle makes, so well worth doing.

Again, thanks.
 
BarcombeBoy said:
Thanks for all your help in this.

As a result I have successfully installed a used Pioneer FH-S720BT 2-DIN bluetooth head unit, a InPhase USW under seat subwoofer and a pair of JVC CS-J620X 600W speakers in the front door. Installing it was not too difficult but setting it up has been surprisingly painful.

There are just many sound options to fiddle with and once you think you've got the sound right you play a different song and it sounds all to cock again. In fact, it almost took longer to set the sound up than to install it.

The sound is loud and pretty good (although treble can be a little sibilant) and almost covers up all the squeaks, rattles and knocks the vehicle makes, so well worth doing.

Again, thanks.
Click to expand...
would be good to see how you did it. My audio system is connected but no sound coming out. i've downloaded the RAVE manuals and will have a look when I get a chance.
1.8Petrol model HSE HK sound system with cd changer, amp and a lot of mess! My partner decided to snip the cables so we could wire them ourselves..lol
 
Cupcakes_74 said:
would be good to see how you did it. My audio system is connected but no sound coming out. i've downloaded the RAVE manuals and will have a look when I get a chance.
1.8Petrol model HSE HK sound system with cd changer, amp and a lot of mess! My partner decided to snip the cables so we could wire them ourselves..lol
Click to expand...
The (excellent) subwoofer came with its own cables, controls and wiring diagram. It went under the passenger seat, screwed into the floor. I had to run power to it from the fuse box. To run the cables and fit the head unit I had to remove the plastic housing and storage compartment between the two seats. I had to buy a new cable (£45 or so?) to wire the Pioneer head unit in (see helpful post above). I was too mean to buy another cable to get the steering controls going so they don't work. I did have help with the wiring so can't be clearer about it than this but I can't remember us cutting anything.

That's about it really. I left the back speakers and the door tweeters connected. If I did it again I would have replaced the existing tweeters with new and replaced *both* sets of door speakers. I would not have bought door speakers with tweeters in (for the front door at least) as the result was far too much treble and so, sibilance. Luckily the Pioneer head unit comes with a graphics equaliser and after fiddling for some days with it and the subwoofer cut-off frequency managed to get a sound I'm very happy with.....
 
BarcombeBoy said:
Hello.

I'm hoping someone here might be able to advise me on wiring and head unit choice. I've attached photo to show existing stock setup.

I am converting my Freelander 1 to camp/travel in and can't live with existing audio so am upgrading it as cheaply as possible. I've ordered a pair of speakers and a subwoofer/bass unit to fit under the pasenger seat:

* JVC CS-J620X 6.5" 16.5cm 2 Way 600 Watts Car Van Door Coaxial Speakers Pair (NOTE: I am disconnecting the rear speakers)
* In Phase USW300 underseat subwoofer (300w peak, come with amp and crossover)

I will using my Android phone for music and sat nav so at base all I really need from a headunit is:

* Good sound
* Bluetooth (APTX)
* Volume control

I have two main questions:

Question 1: what is my best bet for headunit to fit the space I have (which seems to be 7.2"wd x 4.72ht) and do I rip out all that is there and get some sort of correct sized Android screen thingy or just change one of the (what appears to be) 3 distinct units for a conventional headunit (I do not need a CD player). I don't need the flash Android screen stuff but would probably like it... I just don't want to pay too much for it.

Question 2: Wiring. I've never wired car audio before but am pretty handy with wiring in general. In my simple world all I have to do is run power and speaker cables from the new headunit to the subwoofer and connect the existing speaker cables to the new speaker cables somewhere behind the head unit (I'm disconnecting the back speakers as they are hidden under the bed now). However I know it'll not be that simple as there seems to be volume controls on the steering column and I'm sure esoteric cables/connectors are required. I am at a loss here and any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

View attachment 317977
Click to expand...
Hi not sure when this was posted, but did you manage to install a screen? And if so did you have any issues with the wiring harness? Did you use original plugs or an aftermarket wire adapter?
 
RickyFreelander said:
Hi not sure when this was posted, but did you manage to install a screen? And if so did you have any issues with the wiring harness? Did you use original plugs or an aftermarket wire adapter?
Click to expand...

You have to use an adapter. I think it cost £45. I can't remember what is was I'm afraid. Was very much worth doing. The £100 under-seat subwoofer is worth it's weight in bass.
 
BarcombeBoy said:
You have to use an adapter. I think it cost £45. I can't remember what is was I'm afraid. Was very much worth doing. The £100 under-seat subwoofer is worth it's weight in bass.
Click to expand...
Thank you for getting back to me, I’m really struggling to find one. Eventually I do want to get a sub woofer but I need to get the screen working first. I might msg you again when I’ve got the subwoofer
 
RickyFreelander said:
Thank you for getting back to me, I’m really struggling to find one. Eventually I do want to get a sub woofer but I need to get the screen working first. I might msg you again when I’ve got the subwoofer
Click to expand...
I can't be certain but this might be it. If you want the steering controls to work you'll need another lead. I didn't bother with it.

Freelander CD radio stereo wiring harness adapter lead loom ISO https://amzn.eu/d/b9FsJbg
 
so I actually have this already, I purchased it when I got the car but my wiring harness already has the connections, I’ve attached a photo.
And it’s the genuine harness as I traced it back and it joins the AC harness and the cigarette lighter, plus it has a LandRover wiring sticker around it.
I’ve attached a photo for reference
 

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Freddie17 said:
@kernowsvenski has changed the radio in the F1. He might be able to steer you on cables/adaptors.
Click to expand...
I've not changed the head unit out of mine, but these guys are the go to people for harness adapters. They have the specific ones for the Becker head unit which is in the HSE models.

Products by vehicle manufacturer - InCarTec​

InCarTec is a UK based manufacturer and distributor of car audio adapters, cables and accessories. We specialise in stereo upgrades, multimedia & bluetooth integration, speaker upgrades, reversing camera integration & retention.
incartec.co.uk
 
RickyFreelander said:
so I actually have this already, I purchased it when I got the car but my wiring harness already has the connections, I’ve attached a photo.
And it’s the genuine harness as I traced it back and it joins the AC harness and the cigarette lighter, plus it has a LandRover wiring sticker around it.
I’ve attached a photo for reference
Click to expand...
Those are DIN connections, which for the most part are standard car audio connectors. If the replacement HU follows the DIN standard, the they should be almost plug n play. However if you have the amplifier under the seat, and a sub in the boot floor, then there might be some differences. InCarTec will be able to help you.
 
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