I still reckon it can be done with a relay - maybe after the fan controller. Haven't looked into it yet.
This should have been a separate thread, really.
 
I still reckon it can be done with a relay - maybe after the fan controller. Haven't looked into it yet.
This should have been a separate thread, really.

Mines a non ac one ŵith only one fan, so can't see why one wouldn't be enough to keep it cool the the other would work as a back up if you thrash the nads off it at the standard temp?!?! I doubt whether it's clever enough to realise that ones disconnected from the controller, more concerned that it wouldn't cool the condenser efficiently as that appears to be the only reason for two fans?

So far it appears to work really well. I think if it had a fan working just above the set point you wouldn't get the temp variation you do at the mo, at least it'd be reduced, to normal levels in a lower range.

The two min run on after shut down doesn't drastically cool it it appears to stop the water temp rising initially when it would normally be sat in a hot engine, then it does cool it by a few degrees. Which appears to work well. I'll have to compare it to mine to see what happens at shut down?
 
Davies Craig EWP - Preliminary results

Been on the forum since saturday, not sure I could have titled it more clearly. I thought there would have been more interest, but either people like HGF or they don't really understand what it does. Makes no difference to me, I just hope someone will find it in a search one day and it will be useful to them. I'm just happy I'm back on the road :).
 
Davies Craig EWP - Preliminary results

Been on the forum since saturday, not sure I could have titled it more clearly. I thought there would have been more interest, but either people like HGF or they don't really understand what it does. Makes no difference to me, I just hope someone will find it in a search one day and it will be useful to them. I'm just happy I'm back on the road :).

Suspect most don't understand! Maybe. 1.8 head gasket fixed forever!!!! :)
 
Hi......got a question for all you landy experts that I hope you can answer?
I have had a 2004 facelift 1.8 Petrol Freelander for about 6 months now.
About 3 months ago it was loosing coolant and after reading many posts on here I figured out it could be the heater matrix as the left hand front carpet was wet. So, rightly or wrongly I used a bottle of Kseal, the leak stopped and things seemed fine for about a month when the thermostat went faulty and the temp gauge was only reaching about a qtr of the way up instead of its usual half way. Had the stat replaced at Landy specialist and again, things seemd ok.
That was until a week or so ago I noticed the heater was sometimes hot and sometimes cold, no coolant loss but there is air in the coolant system.
If I bleed it using the screw open bleeder thing on the heater matrix pipes air bubbles are there and to be honest never seem to disappear but the heater warms up and the coolant level goes down. Last night I opened the bottom bleed valve and the top one to get the air out, the heater was really hot and I thought that had cured it but it has been the same today, full of air and hot and cold heater!
Have had it it the LR Specialist twice this week, once for a wheel bearing doing and again for him to bleed the coolant system.
The LR Specialist reckons it has got to be a HGF so I thought I would try for a second opinion before spending £800 (quoted) on a HG replacement.
The car drives absolutely fine, no overheating, no coolant loss, no steam from the exhaust.......just this air in the coolant system!
Hope you can let me know your thoughts and if the LR Specialist is right with his diagnosis????
Thanks in advance :)
 
Right mate I can help you with this. If you are bleeding the heater point and air is just never ending then you have the very early stages of HGF, probably brought on by your earlier symptoms. If you catch it now then it'll be simpler to fix before you get mayo gumming up the cooling hoses etc. This is caused by exhaust gasses leaking into the coolant through the HG and before long you will see major air locks and overheating. The same thing happened to me and I took the opportunity to completely redesign the cooling system whilst doing the HG and mine is now sweet as a nut.

£800 seems realistic and if the guy knows what he's doing you're in good hands. Anything under £600 and they'll be using cheap parts.

Where are you? Could be we know someone local to you who can help :).

Will.
 
Hi Will

Many thanks for your answer, it sounds very likely what you are saying!
I am in Halifax West Yorkshire and the LR specialist I have been going to is in Leeds so not a million miles away.

One thing I forgot to mention was the bottom radiator hose stays cold when the engine is hot until I bleed the sys then it gets as hot as the rest of the hoses, guess that is down to an airlock eh?

The £800 quote was inc a water pump and timing belt change also.

Cheers
Graham
 
Hi Graham,

Quite often a small loss of coolant seems to start sequential HGF. The Kseal may have also caused problems, it is verboten here for good reason - the K series has many narrow coolant passages that are easily blocked.

Sounds like the guy knows what he's doing and if you do everything he reccomends then your chances of repeat HGF are quite small. Usually repeat HGF is caused by a leak that's left unfixed and unnoticed for too long. Just check your coolant every day for the first few days after the repair and then weekly after that. Any drop should be dealt with immediately. Kseal may have stopped your heater leak but you need to be vigilant going forward.

It is an expensive job but it's worth it, you really can't take any half measures on a head gasket job if you want it to fix the problem.

Best of luck :)!

Will.
 
K Seal doesn't work in the same way as radweld, it will not block galleries and cores.

i don't advocate it's use as i prefer to fix the cause of leaks rather than papering over them with a cure all quick fix that may or may not work.
 
K Seal doesn't work in the same way as radweld, it will not block galleries and cores.

i don't advocate it's use as i prefer to fix the cause of leaks rather than papering over them with a cure all quick fix that may or may not work.

K seal only congeals when it contacts air right? Better than radweld but like you said, best to fix leaks properly :).
 
K Seal doesn't work in the same way as radweld, it will not block galleries and cores.

i don't advocate it's use as i prefer to fix the cause of leaks rather than papering over them with a cure all quick fix that may or may not work.

I've known it block small bore waterways! Most the time it doesn't tho!
But the other side of the jiggle valve is air:(
 
Well that's me on the HGF bandwagon... I think

My expansion tank is pressurising and throwing all the water out the cap...
strangely no mayo on the oil caps and no oil in the coolent :S
In garage next week to get a sniff test.

Back in me trusty 88" Series III :)
 
Well that's me on the HGF bandwagon... I think

My expansion tank is pressurising and throwing all the water out the cap...
strangely no mayo on the oil caps and no oil in the coolent :S
In garage next week to get a sniff test.

Common symptom on 1.8's is no mayo or physical symptom.
 

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