To be honest, you will be clucking at straws without a diagnostic tool.
Are you 100% sure that the cam timing is correct? Did you use the flywheel locking pin to time the crank or the dots on the crank pulley? I've known the pulley to be stamped 1 tooth out. This is why the flywheel locking pin is a must for belt fitting.
 
I used the dot's on the pulley to time the crank ! So what if re-do it one tooth out one way and the other and try it ? Where does the flywheel locking pin go ? Hole in the bell houseing somewhere ?
 
The locking hole is in the engine adaptor plate.
This is where it's located, although this is the T series engine. A 6mm drill is commonly used ;)
Screenshot_2016-02-05-20-25-20.png
 
Here are a couple of photos off t'internet

cranksprocket.jpg


med_gallery_2_206_80177.jpg

It is really easy to get the cams one tooth out. If you do it will look like they are half a tooth out so easy to get confused.
Something like this, although I think it is upside down.
oS06WRIm.jpg

Also check the cam pulley pins (under the bolts) are correct
You can just about see them here and if (like me) you weren't aware they can be in either position then chances are one or both are wrong.
Is it just me or is this a different engine? Anyway the point still stands.
Yip just checked and it is a T16 engine.
Thursday21stApril2005Camwheels022.jpg


BTW, while checking stuff like this don't be tempted to start the car without the crank pulley in place. It keeps the timing belt from slipping off the other pulleys. I made that mistake last time and only my son was watching and shouted it would have been a very bad day.
 
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Marks on cam sprockets line up perfectly, Mark on crank pulley line up on timing belt cover ! Can't find the crank locking hole ?? Anywhere ? Managed to get it ticking over useing the ajustment screw on the butterfly ! Also managed to get it over flowing from the expansion tank as the cap is goofed !
 

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Jason2 said:
Marks on cam sprockets line up perfectly, Mark on crank pulley line up on timing belt cover ! Can't find the crank locking hole ?? Anywhere ? Managed to get it ticking over useing the ajustment screw on the butterfly ! Also managed to get it over flowing from the expansion tank as the cap is goofed !
Click to expand...
Have to admit I've never noticed that mark on the crank pulley, I always set the timing with the pulley off. Maybe a stupid question but I'll ask anyway, you sure the two dots are in the same place?
Also really hard to see if the cam pulleys are lined up perfectly from that angle, I take it you used a mirror to check properly.
 
I'm not sure pointer on the plastic cover and notch in the outer pulley are at the correct point for belt timing. They definitely aren't on my MGF VVC. From memory, the plastic cover pointer is the TDC mark. The cam timing is set at 90° before top dead centre, iirc.
Did you find the timing hole in the engine back plate? If I get a chance, I'll take a picture of my VVC timing hole location.
 
I did set the timing with the crank pulley off and yes the 2 dot's lined up well as well as the pulley/cambelt cover ! Yes I checked the camshaft sprockets with a mirrow to make sure they were 100% lined up.Nodge their is a TDC mark on the cambelt cover that you can just see on the photo that is approx 45° before the timing mark ! No I can't find the kin timing hole in the engine back plate and YES I want to burn the fecking thing :D
 
PS: Just for info I have been changing my own cambelts on every vehicle I have owned for the last 30 years and have never been even a tooth out !! I have experience with cars where the belt has jumped a toothe and they usely run like a bag of **** ! This is'nt the case! The bastid starts up with a bit of effort ( I say that I'm used to diesels that crack up first time) runs fine until warm and then conks out !!
 
What about the lugs under the cam pulley bolts? I got them wrong once although in my case the car wouldn't start at all.
 
Alibro said:
What about the lugs under the cam pulley bolts? I got them wrong once although in my case the car wouldn't start at all.
Click to expand...

I did spend a bit of time over this ! As you know I did'nt take it in bit's,the engine was in kit form in the boot ! So I had to do a bit of guessing to get it back together !! Going off the peg marks that could be seen in the cam sprocket slot's and did a bit of reading up am nearly sure that they are on reight !
 
Jason2 said:
I did spend a bit of time over this ! As you know I did'nt take it in bit's,the engine was in kit form in the boot ! So I had to do a bit of guessing to get it back together !! Going off the peg marks that could be seen in the cam sprocket slot's and did a bit of reading up am nearly sure that they are on reight !
Click to expand...
Yeah if you checked I'm sure it's fine. The pulley on the exhaust side has the peg at the ex end of the slot and the pulley on the inlet side has it at the in side of the slot.
If all that is correct then it must be either a faulty (or incorrectly connected) sensor, a wiring fault or possibly mismatch between the ecu and the sensors on the engine. From what I've read the sensor you asked about is a temp sensor so if your ecu is expecting a signal from it but your loom doesn't have the connector (because it's newer) then you have a problem.
 
A friend has a problem and i ask here...
if cylinder head was over skimmed ,what gasket need to use ? MLS or Payen elastomer ?

thanks
 
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You should use the MLS head gasket if all the cylinder liners are at the same level ! If they are'nt or you have a doubt it's better to use the Payen elastomer !
 
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