When I did the hg on mine it was full of crap. So much I couldn't get two of the head bolts out without pulling off the sump and oil rail and clearing out the holes from beneath! When it was done I put cheap oil in it and a flush, ran it for 30 mins or so and then changed it again.
Did you pull the cam rail off? If not the oil paths might be full of crud too so that might be a job to do. Make sure you use anaerobic sealant when putting it back together so it the spill out doesn't block anything.
I had an auto tensioner in my MGF and couldn't get it to work properly at all. In the end I adjusted it manually by tightening it so I could just twist the belt 90 Deg.
 
I cleaned all mine off a treat and still had a problem with the tappets/lifters being noisey for the first few hours of running it. I even left them in a jug of oil while i carried out the work so they didn't lose any. Eventually they had enough oil get to them and the noise settled off and stopped. I was worried i'd done something majorly wrong at first though!
 
Alibro said:
I had an auto tensioner in my MGF and couldn't get it to work properly at all. In the end I adjusted it manually by tightening it so I could just twist the belt 90 Deg.
Click to expand...

I'm not a fan of the auto tensioner myself. It's easy enough to change to the manual tensioner of the VVC. The belt is wider too.
 
Nodge68 said:
I'm not a fan of the auto tensioner myself. It's easy enough to change to the manual tensioner of the VVC. The belt is wider too.
Click to expand...
That's odd, mine is a VVC. Having said that it had an engine change during it's life so I guess the garage may have just used whatever was available.
 
Any body any idea's why it's cutting out/won't idle and difficult to start when warm ??? Should there be somthing conected to the far right green plug on injector rail ?? ...Please !
 
I had a look at mine but didn't see any green connector. Can you post a photo of it?
The rough idle and hard start may be an air leak into the crank case or a dodgy idle control valve.
 
Thanks for your trouble ! Green one on the right ! Won't idle at all once warm !! Tried disconecting the temp gauge (fans come on) and idle control valve whilst it's still cold and ticking over but no difference !!
 

Attachments

  • PICT0053.jpg
    PICT0053.jpg
    109.2 KB · Views: 284
Re cleaning the oil ways with ATF - In the past I've used a blend of cheap 10W40 oil and straight diesel fuel [1 litre], left it idling for 10 / 15 minutes then drained and replaced the filter, repeated again but using only the cheap oil, drain and refilll with the good stuff.

Re idle, try spraying carby cleaner into the IVAC valve and see ho it reacts.
 
Looks like something is connected in the photo, is that from a library or is it your car?
 
htr said:
Re cleaning the oil ways with ATF - In the past I've used a blend of cheap 10W40 oil and straight diesel fuel [1 litre], left it idling for 10 / 15 minutes then drained and replaced the filter, repeated again but using only the cheap oil, drain and refilll with the good stuff.

Re idle, try spraying carby cleaner into the IVAC valve and see ho it reacts.
Click to expand...
Thanks ! Might try that if I could get it to idle !
 
Alibro said:
Looks like something is connected in the photo, is that from a library or is it your car?
Click to expand...

No thats just a pic I dragged off the net ! Mines the same but nothing conected and can't find anything loose to conect ?
 
From memory the green connection is the intake air temperature. What year is your car? And did the manifold come off a different car?
 
I couldn't see a connector like that on mine but it is a late 2002 so may be different.
This is like mine. There is a bolt there instead of a sensor.
[GALLERY=]
$_57.JPG
[/GALLERY]
 
Jason2 said:
It's a year 2000 and I have no idea if it's original or not ?
Click to expand...

Presumably the wiring is there for the sensor so the ECU is expecting a signal from it. Do you have a Diagnostics device? It should throw a code for the missing sensor.
 
No diagnostic device and not a cat in hells chance of finding one out here !! I will just have to check it all out, wire for wire sensor for sensor !!

Thanks for your help !
 
Found out what the loud tapping noise was ! Forgotten to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts up :eek:! Purrrrrrrrrrs like a pussy cat now ! until it get's warm and then the rev's drop and it stalls ??

I have cleaned the idle control valve and reset which seems to be running fine, also cleaned the air sensor in the manifold but no difference. Also worth mentioning that it won't start unless you give it gas !
 
Defo something wrong then, K series are really easy to start. Could it be the O2 sensor in the exhaust? Doesn't it tell the ecu something when the car is warmed up. Sorry for naff terminology, I ain't no mechanic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

htr
Freelander 1 K-series 1.8 Fly wheel
Replies
11
Views
870
htr
htr
M
Crankshaft pulley for FL1 1.8 K-Series 2005 model
Replies
5
Views
573
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
J
Freelander 1 advice
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
htr
htr
malcolm_durant
2000 Freelander 1: pre-MoT SRS light malarky
Replies
3
Views
173
malcolm_durant
malcolm_durant
Rixtonn
Freelander 1 2000 1.8 Patrol Abs ecu relay
Replies
12
Views
2K
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel