lynall said:
I forgot wading plugs one day on my 200, few weeks later engine sounded weird so like all good mechs I ignored it! but in the end I got looking and found the water/mud had got into the cambelt tensioner and its was fubared, not many weeks later the clutch died as well was like it has been attacked by grinding paste.
Oh yeh water also got in the top of the injector pump and caused that to seize as wello_O
Click to expand...
Yeah, but was it good fun in the water.....................:rolleyes:
 
So all in all the internet is providing me with advice along the lines of:
"it'll be reyt but don't do it again but actually it might be the fooking apocalypse for the entire contents of the engine bay"

Clear as, well, the water I went through really :p
 
Roaming Wombat said:
So all in all the internet is providing me with advice along the lines of:
"it'll be reyt but don't do it again but actually it might be the fooking apocalypse for the entire contents of the engine bay"

Clear as, well, the water I went through really :p
Click to expand...
I'm happy to be corrected, but..........
If all your breathers are still connected, working and the ends were above the water line, then I would expect the reducing pressure in the boxes and diffs to be balanced more via the breather than sucking water in through seals.
If it was at floor level and you weren't in for very long, your seals and gaskets are ok on the timing cover then there's got to be a decent chance all is ok in there.
All other ancillaries washed down asap.
The lack of wading plug will likely be the primary issue.
 
jamesmartin said:
the seals arent water proof
Click to expand...
It's thinner than oil, alright :) Air is thinner than water though, so for the brief time he was in the 20m of water I would think it would be easier for the air to be pulled in via the breather than water through the seals. Trying to provide a bit of hope to cling to :rolleyes:
 
Al2O3 said:
It's thinner than oil, alright :) Air is thinner than water though, so for the brief time he was in the 20m of water I would think it would be easier for the air to be pulled in via the breather than water through the seals. Trying to provide a bit of hope to cling to :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
to some extent ,but they are designed just to keep oil in,they work one way especially on rotating shafts
 
jamesmartin said:
to some extent ,but they are designed just to keep oil in,they work one way especially on rotating shafts
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know. We had a conversation about their function during my engine rebuild when you told me that. Hopefully, he had a bit of a bow wave, enough to create a bit of a drop in water level in front of the timing cover. :eek:
 
Gave my Landy a clean today and had a look underneath (as well as removing various bits of vegetation :oops:), there didn't appear to be a big build up of crud around the wading plug holes so will just have to see how it goes for now I suppose.

Do need to give my breathers a blast out though just to be sure (no compressor so can of air duster needed)
 
No body has asked how warm the motor was. If everything was cold there would be less of a risk. But I'd guess this was probbably mid trip and everything was hot. Wading screwed me clutch and hand brake. Wading too deep meant I tried to compress water. Blew part of the block off.
 
i went through some slop n got stuck without wading plugs in a few months back. it destroyed my new clutch........

5 years ive been through everything without them and never had a problem, this once it got me but i did turn the engine off in the water, i wouldnt worry too much personally, mine gets hammered and still goes.
 
thats why its best to leave them in and just remove them at every oil change to check and allow any oil to drain out.
 
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What I now have on mine is a pcl air line fitting with 3 inches of clear pipe blanked off by a cut down bolt, pipe held onto the fitting and the bolt with a cable tie, easy to see if any oil/water is in there and a quick wiggle/tug has the pipe off to get rid of any excess.

I did try 1/4 tap and extension piece but was to rigid and was fiddly to open/check and then started to seize up.
 
lynall said:
What I now have on mine is a pcl air line fitting with 3 inches of clear pipe blanked off by a cut down bolt, pipe held onto the fitting and the bolt with a cable tie, easy to see if any oil/water is in there and a quick wiggle/tug has the pipe off to get rid of any excess.

I did try 1/4 tap and extension piece but was to rigid and was fiddly to open/check and then started to seize up.
Click to expand...
For the plugs or for the breather?
 
goonarmy said:
For the plugs or for the breather?
Click to expand...

For the drain plugs, quick visual is all thats needed, actually checked them the other day for the first time in months, one had a little condensation in and that was it
All my breathers are routed into a manifold and from the manifold one single pipe up to the top of the snorkel.
 
Well the wishful thinking is getting me along well... had a lovely loss of power this morning (couldn't get any revs), it came back after a couple of minutes of idle so I'm thinking I may have gotten myself some shite in the fuel tank during my adventures (that this post came about from).
Also on my list are potentially:
  • Blocked breather
  • Air (somehow)
  • Lift pump on its last legs (I've been chasing what seems like a flat line in power when high in the revs for a while, almost like a lack of oomph)
 
Managed to confirm it really is loosing power/lacking power today going up 2 hills.

Took the bleed screw out of the fuel filter and pumped the lift pump manually to see if its the lift pump, the nice splurge I got out the top of the filter would suggest the lift pump is OK, though it took a few pumps to achieve, would that indicate air in the fuel system?

Took the turbo/FIP hose off too to check that for any obvious damage, the cable (not rubber) seems to be in good condition, no obvious splits and the like.

Unfortunately, in taking it off/putting it back on I think I've knocked a connection somewhere because now I just get a click when trying to turn it over:rolleyes:, didn't fancy going hunting in the dark/cold rain. I did give it half a second on the starter to be able to pump the lift pump so likely a fuse or something knocked loose by the turbo hose on/off.

Suppose once I sort that it may be a drain the fuel tank job.:(
 
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