Codbasher

Codbasher

New Member
Got a new pair of footwells for Candy....

Nearside looks easy enough to do, but the offside has pedals, is there a direct way of doing without taking brakes/clutch etc apart??









Now fully booked for the London to Brighton, so hopefully the new footwells will keep water out/heat in....:D
 
you would be better off cutting the rotten area out and about 2 inches either side of it, then just welding in a plate, on the passenger side, if you use the whole panel make sure you cut off the lip that welds onto the bulkhead pillar otherwise it looks a bollocks and it stops it fitting properly ;)
 
I did think of welding it up, BUT for the price of a new footwell that can be treated to any number of anti rust agents, I thought I would just replace em and have done with it....:rolleyes:
 
well i yer gonna cut the rotten uns out, yer might as well just cut the rotten area out
 
I've just exposed mine, footwells that is:D Both mine are well and truly rotten, the drivers side has gone along the corner and there's a hole under the clutch pedal that I could put me head through if the chassis rali wasn't in the way. Passenger sid's only slightly better. My point is it still looks like less work to just cut out the manky bits and patch em up than to cut out the whole footwell and replace it. However I'm sure it will look a lot neater with the whole footwell replaced so I'l make me mind up when I've spent a bit of time on it with the grinder:D
 
what you need to bear in mind is that if you weld a replacement footwell over the top of any of the old footwell then go off roading and ingress water there will be a moisture trap between the 2 pieces of metal which will always accelerate rot
 
Codbasher said:
Seems to me the old footwells are pretty much a unbolt job, rather than a cut and shut jobby.....
Click to expand...
It might be that someone has replaced them before and bolted them in. Like yella says though you risk leaving a gap which will get ful of ****e and quietly rot while you're not looking:)
 
Unbolt yer pedals and stuff if the old ones are bolted in adapt the new ones bolt 'em in and attack it with **** looads of wax oil or diesel and oil mix!!

As far as I am aware there is no easy way of doing the drivers footwell.....
 
I know the passenger side is well and truly rotton, I did weld a couple of plates in 'to do' so to speak, but to my eyes the foots wells just unbolt....

Yeah I know, it aint gonna be that simple, its a bloody Land Rover...

Right tools....

Large Hammer
Bigger Hammer
Angle grinder
Welder
Sledge hammer

Have I missed anything???
 
I am going to fix my drivers footwell by cutting the bottom angled section out leaving a 1" lip along the top and down the sides.
Using a new footwell from Paddocks

lr19r.jpg


I am going to cut the appropriate section and then bolt/pop rivet/weld the new section in.

Cant see the problem.(yet)
 
ere daft, that lip on the left in your pic(by the way, that footwell is upside down) needs cutting off. if you fit it like that it makes the seal on the door stick out and its a bastard to shut the door ;)
 
yella said:
ere daft, that lip on the left in your pic(by the way, that footwell is upside down) needs cutting off. if you fit it like that it makes the seal on the door stick out and its a bastard to shut the door ;)
Click to expand...

Yeah - I know that - thats just how Paddocks display it. As yu saw if yu look at the pedal cut outs - they need to be at the top. As yu say - the lip needs to be cut off.
 
I did the passenger side on my last SWB. Took heater off and set to with grinder leaving an inch for attachment. I also sliced right through the door edge at exactly the same height as the new 'lip'. Removing rivets and door seal, and using a cold chisel and moles I could unpeel the old one, so the new one fitted very snugly. Waxoyl everyehere and a few self tappers to hold tight while I drilled for rivets. I riveted the whole thing in on the principle that it would be easier to do next time.

This time I'm doing the drivers side which I managed without removing the wing. Again chopping along the line of upper section of bulkhead overlap. I found taking little pieces out rather than attempt the whole thing worked best. Find and drill out spotwelds by a light pass with the grinder - grind a slot with grinder or drill to remove.
A big hammer and drift persuaded the overlap to now be on the outside of the new section, and you may have to take a little off of the edge nearest the transmission. Rivets as before.
Bolting it all back was the most satisfying using all new bolts as it looked very nice. (if I work out how to post piccies I will)
Well worth the effort.
 
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