cappers

cappers

Well-Known Member
Hi all, I say urgent as I'd like to get the new lock on before it gets dark....
Early 90 with lift up handles and push down stalk lock inside type; all locks snafu and received a new set of barrels and keys today. Rushed home from work, stripped the door replaced the slipping window regulator but really stuck with the lock.
I've read busters help topic on locks but can't see any pictures and can't relate the instructions to y lock.
Heres some pix, I removed and replaced the black regulator panel and can remove it again if required.
Any advice much appreciated
. IMG_0811.jpg IMG_0812 (1).jpg
 
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Anybody here.....?
In the hole in the brass handle assembly cover, which seems to be where the barrel sits, there's a nut with soft metal tabs, do I remove that.....or do I have to remove the 4 bolts holding the brass cover? Looks a pig as the outer 2 are behind the window runner....can't see any 'pin' to depress at the moment.
Or should I just stick a screwdriver in the key hole and whack it with a hammer a few times, or drill it out? I don't want to break the lock itself.
The window regulator was easy but I've done them loads of time!
Capo the incompetent.
 
Sorry to hassle but can anybody shed any light on this lock problem?
I have a 90/110 Workshop manual but for the door furniture it shows 1986 onwards i.e. push button door handles; mine has lift-up handles - an 'AA' VIN for a very early 90.
The image is from the 90/110 parts catalogue and shows the doors I have; so how do I remove the lock barrel?
Many thanks.
 

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    90 front door.png
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capo said:
Hi all, I say urgent as I'd like to get the new lock on before it gets dark....
Early 90 with lift up handles and push down stalk lock inside type; all locks snafu and received a new set of barrels and keys today. Rushed home from work, stripped the door replaced the slipping window regulator but really stuck with the lock.
I've read busters help topic on locks but can't see any pictures and can't relate the instructions to y lock.
Heres some pix, I removed and replaced the black regulator panel and can remove it again if required.
Any advice much appreciated
.View attachment 130923 View attachment 130924
Click to expand...

What are you stuck with exactly, just getting the lock off the door or getting the barrel out the lock?

You will need to remove the lock first to access the retaining pin.

Bad news is on the lift up type locks sometimes the barrels can get so corroded in the best way is to carefully drill them out.

Basically to remove the barrel you put the key in and turn it to unlocked, and then you push a little spring loaded pin which will release it - hahaha - well it should, try soaking it in penetrating oil or WD40 or GT85 then gentle tapping to free it up first. You will need to wiggle the key too because you need to have the tumblers retracted for it to slide out too and these can catch a bit.
 
IMG_0812 (1).jpg
Thanks for the input.
Cannot get key into lock as it looks like it's been forced at some time.
Inside there is a small nut and tab on what looks like the end of the barrel; removed it but couldn't slide the lock out and didn't want to bash to hard in case I broke something I shouldn't! On the pic its the hole at 11 o/c to my finger.
Cant see the little pin; they are on the replacement locks I got (MTC6504) but I know think that these are the wrong ones.
Hey ho! Landies.....
 
capo said:
View attachment 130958
Thanks for the input.
Cannot get key into lock as it looks like it's been forced at some time.
Inside there is a small nut and tab on what looks like the end of the barrel; removed it but couldn't slide the lock out and didn't want to bash to hard in case I broke something I shouldn't! On the pic its the hole at 11 o/c to my finger.
Cant see the little pin; they are on the replacement locks I got (MTC6504) but I know think that these are the wrong ones.
Hey ho! Landies.....
Click to expand...

Can you not see a little hole in the side of the barrel housing on the lock?

You cannot remove the barrel without the key being in the lock in a normal manner, you are going to need to get drilling carefully.
 
Can you get some better pictures, that one is too close.

Also let us see the barrel end on, I wonder if you have the older series style barrels as the doors/locks were interchangeable so no telling what could be installed.

Does you latch unit look like this (also this images shoes how to release the barrel):

landy lock.jpg

Or does it have the two raised sections on the body?
 
It's at a local Landy mechanic now for some other jobs so I can't take any pictures it for a few days.

Re your picture, I haven't taken the whole lock assembly off; on the outside there is the lift up handle, but the barrel is covered by an escutcheon, perhaps if I remove that the pin will be seen? The attached image is a close up from the 90/110 parts manual and shows the exact lock on mine. Noticed that the barrel is coded MUC4146; the replacements I got from Craddocks are MTC6504 so I'll give them a ring.
lock detail.png
The hole in the centre of the lock case is where the back of the barrel is held with a bendy tab and a bolt-head screw. I did remove it but the barrel stayed put.

On the plus side, she had a decent run today on country lanes and couple of A roads and performed beautifully; I haven't driven her since I got her last Friday and that was only about 10 miles, mostly rush hour crawl. Quiet and responsive engine, more so than my previous experience of a 2.5 petrol, nipped along. Gearbox was tight and accurate and no backlash on overrun. MrsC was following and she said the Landy drove straight and level, no smoke or fumes. I kept up with the traffic (50-60) without having to welly the accelerator, so overall quite impressed (I'm used to V8s!).

Thank you for your advice and help. I'll post up the fix when sorted in case others have a trigger's broom like me.
 
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Update:

I put the barrel number MUC4146 into Craddocks and they have:
Barrel and Keys Front Doors 90/110 1984 - 87
MUC4146
20571-muc4146-barrel-and-keys-front-doors-90110-1984-87.jpg
The barrels have what look like screw holes in the bottom.....they'll exchange the MTC6504 for MUC4146 so I'll try those (I know the'yre Britpart but I'll give them a try). Probably have to drill the old barrel out though!
 
You need a bigger drill, otherwise the lands will stay where they are!
IIRC I used an 8mm to remove the last one, but it could be anything up to 10mm
 
Oldseadog said:
You need a bigger drill, otherwise the lands will stay where they are!
IIRC I used an 8mm to remove the last one, but it could be anything up to 10mm
Click to expand...

Thanks OSD, I thought as much but wanted to check just in case. So I need to drill out all the shiny barrel remains leaving the metal housing tube. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/img_0823-jpg.133468/
I'll see how it goes.
Also any suggestions re back door lock? Same issue, lock o/s and no key!
Capo
 
OK, remains of old barrel drilled out, new one pushed in, screwed to the metal holder on the inner side of the lock i.e barrel goes thru' outside and this brass bit via the inside, with the barrel slotting into the back of it, secured with the small bolt and tab.....
IMG_0819.JPGIMG_0820.JPGIMG_0821.JPGIMG_0811.jpg
Key turns left and right but doesn't lock the door, handle lifts up and opens in either position.

WTF am I doing wrong?
 
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Oldseadog said:
Have you fitted it 180 degrees out?
Click to expand...

Cheers, I'll have another go when I can, weekend probably, now the nights are drawing in.

Do you think the ball-bearing that fell out when I drilled the lock is relevant? These barrels, unlike the later ones, don't have a depressible ball so I wonder if the ball was part of the brassy bit into which the barrel fits and is screwed in?
Lost the ball but should be able to find one if needed.
 
IIRC the sprung ball bit that's depressed to remove the barrel also restricts the rotation movement to 180 deg.
 
Oldseadog said:
IIRC the sprung ball bit that's depressed to remove the barrel also restricts the rotation movement to 180 deg.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately mine is the very early type with no sprung ball in the barrel - it's held in the latch by a screw nut from behind; I believe it is the Facia/Santana type.

Oldseadog said:
Have you fitted it 180 degrees out?
Click to expand...
Tried that, copied the positions both locked and unlocked on the n/s door which is ok - doesn't make any difference. The handles seem floppy, lose as if not connecting to the latch...on the n/s door there is some resistance, you can feel it locating something.

My thoughts are the inside of the latch is broken but what or how I don't know. These latches (MUC2290/2291) are now NLA although I have seen one on eBay for £200! Apparently their LuH successor (MUC6979/6980) is also NLA!

Has anybody got a spare MUC2290 or 6979 lying about? I'm willing to pay well for it, just not £200!
 
I had the same issue as you - the seller swore blind the barrels were to fit all models even though I pointed out what version door I had. Anyway, likewise the ball bearing fell out when I pulled out the inner, but having managed to wangle it back in (just tipping it back in at the right angle whilst holding the barrel out a bit then sliding it all back together), it seems to be working OK - unfortunately as the replacements weren't right the old locks just had to go back in, so can't be sure if a replacement would work too. I've decided I'll be selling the doors shortly as I've decided just to go with a Series set. Probably ought to put them somewhere for a few years at the rate some things are going up in price! :rolleyes:
 
Nick666 said:
I had the same issue as you - ........... likewise the ball bearing fell out when I pulled out the inner, but having managed to wangle it back in (just tipping it back in at the right angle whilst holding the barrel out a bit then sliding it all back together), it seems to be working OK ...............
Click to expand...

Nick, please explain to me how you "managed to wangle it back in (just tipping it back in at the right angle whilst holding the barrel out a bit then sliding it all back together)" ......... do you mean the ball went in with the the barrel holder whilst inserting the lock barrel in too?
IMG_0819.jpgUntitled.png
Untitled2.png



........... I'll be selling the doors shortly as I've decided just to go with a Series set. Probably ought to put them somewhere for a few years at the rate some things are going up in price! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Would you mind giving me first dibs if you sell them? I'm really only after the latches (if the same as mine), as below
90 front door.png

Thanks for the tips, need to find a suitable ball bearing; you don't recall it's size by any chance?
 
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I was a bit peeved (well, livid more like) at finding out it was all a waste of time so by the time the ball bearing fell out I was seeing red mist - but IIRC it was between the barrel and holder in the little hollow there, then it all 'tucks' back into the mechanism. So it all spins around in the lock but the bearing prevents the two from spinning against each other (if that makes any sense at all!) and keeps them pressed against each other ... as usual I took loads of pics right up til the point when it would have been useful, then stopped as was spending all my time trying to figure out what the hell to do about it.
 
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