Quick question to those of you out there with Terrafirma steering dampers...

When it is off the vehicle and you push it in and pull it out there is obviously a lot of resistance. However, there is an amount of "free play" in mine, perhaps 1/4 - 1/2 an inch, where there is no resistance at all.

For example... you push it in against the resistance, then when you pull it out again it comes out 1/4 - 1/2 an inch with no resistance whatsoever, but then meets the normal amount of resistance.

The same happens in the reverse. It's almost as if it's not *completely* full of oil and there's some air space in there.

This may be normal, but I think it could be the reason I get more steering wheel wobble than I did with the old OEM damper and steering rods... because the damper isn't dampening the minor movements out - only the major ones.
 
Bugger.

I had that with mine aswell.

I thought it had gone like that through heavy use, so I replaced it with the terrafirma return to centre (which is a longer thinner damper as per Defender fitment) which does not suffer from the initial play.

As such, the terrafirma you have is not going to work very well for you.

I would consider speaking to who you got it from and see if you van return for a different item.

FWIW I apologise if you are thinking 'that chuffing noisy told me to get one of them 'n all!' because I thought mine had play due to abuse, as I'm fairly sure it was alright when it was new.

However there is another thing to check. If you pump the damper in and out a bit, does the play disappear? Ie is it only there on the first stroke. Sometimes an oil damper needs to pump up. Work it in and out a few inches and test again.

This way they won't laugh at you down the phone when you ring up to complain!
 
I've got both the Terrafirma RTC damper for the defender and the normal terrafirma discovery damper. Neither have any free play in them. Free play in a damper is obviously defeating the object.......

I think you may have a dud.
 
right... thanks for the advice :D

mr. noisy - don't feel bad - your advice was good, and i'm either barking up the wrong tree or it's genuinely a dud! Either way it's not a big issue :)

I spoke to the supplier and explained the situation and they are going to send me a new one. They will then either take back the new one again if it's the same as the other one, or will take back the other one if the new one is better. Either way, I lose no money.

I can then take the existing one off the car, compare it to the brand new one and put one or the other back on.

I'll let you know how it goes!!
 
Right... the new steering damper has no play in it whatsoever. it seems to be perfect!

The old damper doesn't have "free play" in it as such, but if you pull it out and then push it back in, there is about 1/3 the resistance for an inch or so and then it becomes normal for the rest of the travel.

So basically, the resistance is reduced for about an inch until it resists normally again, and I suspect this is why the occasional steering wheel wobble has been introduced.

So the new damper is now fitted and the old damper is going back to Craddocks!

Onto the other problem - resetting the airbag light (because we turned the ignition on by mistake while realigning the steering wheel).

No local garages to do it whatsoever - their various different SnapOn machines that plug in under the dashboard do not think my model of car has SRS at all, so none of them even support resetting it.

So I took it to the local indy LR place - they have an "Autologic" unit and this read an error code of 65280.

When they try to reset the error code, however, it says it cannot communicate. It must be able to communicate somehow though because it finds the error code!

Also, if they try to do it with the ignition off it cannot communicate at all, so there is definitely communication happening.

They have no idea what error code "65280" means though, so it's down to me to find out.

You guys got any idea? I'd really like the ABS light reset at some point! And no - i don't want to just take the bulb out...
 
Error 65280 It's a comms code not a Land Rover SRS code, usually means that a link to a download/upload location is not connecting properly and even non-compatability. It also could have been an iffy plug/socket or data lead, LRs Testbook may do better.
 
bugger... he did say it was a comms problem and suggested that anything could be at fault, impossible to work it out without a lot of work and taking stuff to bits, checking wiring etc... they charged me £40 for the privilege of telling me this too.

They don't have a "Testbook", so I guess i'd have to go to the main dealer, but i don't have the money for that... i dread to think what they'd charge.

i'm basically out of ideas then! unless someone can suggest someone or somewhere near here, or some other method to get it done, i guess i'll live with that annoying red light in the dashboard... :(
 
Last edited:
Thanks for that, but if that method will work, you'd think the Autologic unit would work too... the Autologic unit was reporting a comms problem. It was communicating through the plug.

If it cannot communicate through the plug, how will I be able to?
 
If you read the pdf i linked to it will show you what the abs fault is and how to clear it by bridging the pins on the plug. You did post "abs light" did you mean srs light????
 
fishsponge said:
Thanks for that, but if that method will work, you'd think the Autologic unit would work too... the Autologic unit was reporting a comms problem. It was communicating through the plug.

If it cannot communicate through the plug, how will I be able to?
Click to expand...


It wasn't communicating, the connection was rejected hence the error code.
If and only if the ecu had a compatable data transfer connection (plug) than that would be a way.
 
Last edited:
yeah - i did mean SRS light :D

i'll have a better read of the document tomorrow... seems a little complicated at first glance!
 
Long shot by works on a enough cars so it's worth a shot.

Turn the ignition on and turn headlights on. Disconnect both battery terminals and connect them together (maybe bolt them, clamp them, mole grip them or just hold them) for about 10 minutes.

This allows plenty of time to completely zero all voltages in car systems, make sure you keep the ignition on.

Then after 10 minutes, separate battery leads, turn ignition and lights off, and reconnect to battery.

Start car and cross fingers.

Ye all may laugh but ive been successful on Audi, Vauxhall, various French...
 
sounds similar to what i have to do to my modem when the internet connection starts playing up. turn it off at the mains for 5 mins and hey presto it works when switched on.
 
fishsponge - I have just taken god knows how many hours to read this complete thread back to back... and I have to say i have that at time you have infuriated and others inspired. Well done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
L320 TDV6 multiple issues at once with power drop
2 3
Replies
43
Views
3K
Graculus
Graculus
Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
4K
Goc3k
Goc3k
P
NEW OWNER OF A RANGE ROVER SPORT 3.6 TDV8 HAVING SUSPENSION PROBLEMS
Replies
3
Views
1K
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
Captainflint1967
Landrover Defender 90 200Tdi - Brakes/calipers , Radio electrics and security
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
19_Hue_95
Possible swivel problem?
Replies
9
Views
2K
19_Hue_95
19_Hue_95