Rhode rover

Rhode rover

Active Member
Hi everyone, It's my first post so bear with me. We've only the owner of the 73 SIII for a little over a month. I plan to use it abit before I try to start any restoration.
Chassis condition is at forefront of any decisions made. It's in poor shape. Not as bad as some...but still bad. My welding skills not the best (might be a good place to improve) and if I decide to repair , the top face of chassis is still not accessible. What about inside the rail chanel, if there's rust outside there must be rust inside...right? Is that treated?
A reasonable distanced source they two types of galvanized chassis's. First is a regular frame I guess and the other is a Marsland. Is there a big difference (besides cost) between the two.
Seems to me the same amount of work will occur either way. Sort of a
" pay me now or pay me again later" situation.
 
Looks nice in the avatar, is it petrol or diesel.
Would love to see some pics , if you want to see top of chassis , it’s straightforward after removing bits like wings, seat box, rear tub , floors etc.
It makes sense to remove these bits before you need to as you might find the bolts need to be cut off with a grinder or they may shear off , with new screws and nuts when you actually do need to remove the bits it’s a much quicker job .

the green bible is a must and a good parts book on same site

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/
 
Last edited:
steve2286w said:
Looks nice in the avatar, is it petrol or diesel.
Would love to see some pics , if you want to see top of chassis , it’s straightforward after removing bits like wings, seat box, rear tub , floors etc.
It makes sense to remove these bits before you need to as you might find the bits need to be cut off with a grinder or they may shear off , with new screws and nuts when you actually do need to remove the bits it’s a much quicker job .

the green bible is a must and a good parts book on same site

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/
Click to expand...
 
Hi...thanks for your input.
First it's a petrol or gas as I know it. The condition as I can tell isn't too bad. The chassis is another story. Your explanation makes perfect sense on how to approach the repairs. Honestly not really knowing if some is acceptable, repairable or too far gone needs further education for myself.
I've watched many videos on frame repairs doesn't seem too hard. Not to down play their skill, some of they guy do magic. I understand the concept.
I'm torn as to try a repair or replace. Not sure how long the repair will last if I go that route.
As for the green bible I've got a hard copy, didn't know there was one available in PDF format.
. I'll try to get some better pics uploaded.
Take care
 
Would you be allowed to import a newly made chassis into the USA? Would your customs regard it as being another vehicle?

The shipping costs would surely be expensive also.
 
Rhode rover said:
Hi...thanks for your input.
First it's a petrol or gas as I know it. The condition as I can tell isn't too bad. The chassis is another story. Your explanation makes perfect sense on how to approach the repairs. Honestly not really knowing if some is acceptable, repairable or too far gone needs further education for myself.
I've watched many videos on frame repairs doesn't seem too hard. Not to down play their skill, some of they guy do magic. I understand the concept.
I'm torn as to try a repair or replace. Not sure how long the repair will last if I go that route.
As for the green bible I've got a hard copy, didn't know there was one available in PDF format.
. I'll try to get some better pics uploaded.
Take care
Click to expand...
Try and repair it. You just need a good MIG welder, a power supply, and some steel plate.
And a small grinder and some Inox discs to cut plates and remove rusty sections.
If you fail, you have lost nothing, and you will be able to use the welder to repair the rusty bulkhead.
A series chassis is pretty easy to weld, there are no double skinned sections like a Defender, very few curves, and the steel quality is usually OK.
 
Guess I'll have to give the chassis an extensive inspection. I've been trying to degrease underneath to make it abit easier later. I'm sure at least 1 outrigger is pretty much gone as well as a cross member.
Think I had to hear someone confirm my first impression to try and fix it first. What's the worst that could happen... I have to buy the new chassis. As for have one go through customs, it's a thought but I don't think I'll have to go that route. Rover North is located in Vermont, about a 6 hour ride from Rhode Island. They have them there
 
Rhode rover said:
Guess I'll have to give the chassis an extensive inspection. I've been trying to degrease underneath to make it abit easier later. I'm sure at least 1 outrigger is pretty much gone as well as a cross member.
Think I had to hear someone confirm my first impression to try and fix it first. What's the worst that could happen... I have to buy the new chassis. As for have one go through customs, it's a thought but I don't think I'll have to go that route. Rover North is located in Vermont, about a 6 hour ride from Rhode Island. They have them there
Click to expand...
Give them a ring, ask if they sell sections as well.
In the UK, you can buy prefabricated chassis sections, outriggers, crossmembers, etc.
So you just cut out the old ones on the old chassis, and weld the new ones on.
If you do this with the body in place, you don't have to use jigs to get things in the right place, and it saves a lot of dismantling.
It is a good idea to remove the gas tank before doing any welding in that area, and also to disconnect the battery before doing any welding.
 
They only list full chassis but it's worth a shot...what's it going to cost me but a dime for a phone call.
Most likely I'll strip it down anyway. More work but easier on the hard work (chassis repair). Figure better to see and repair with less obstructions.
Thanks for gas tank removal info, I knew a the battery but was wondering both the tank.
Biggest obstacle at the moment is requiring my work shop/ garage . Used for my contracting business for years but used for collect all for a while. Not a lot of time to clean still working 40 + a week.
It will be done before winter
 
Rhode rover said:
They only list full chassis but it's worth a shot...what's it going to cost me but a dime for a phone call.
Most likely I'll strip it down anyway. More work but easier on the hard work (chassis repair). Figure better to see and repair with less obstructions.
Thanks for gas tank removal info, I knew a the battery but was wondering both the tank.
Biggest obstacle at the moment is requiring my work shop/ garage . Used for my contracting business for years but used for collect all for a while. Not a lot of time to clean still working 40 + a week.
It will be done before winter
Click to expand...
If nobody local sells chassis sections, it should be possible to get them sent from the UK.

I would agree with Steve ^^^^^. Don't strip it down unless absolutely necessary.
Stripping down usually results in seeing loads of problems you haven't noticed already, and you never know where to stop, so it ends up off the road for years.
Rolling restoration is the way to go if at all possible, do one job at a time, and start it up and take it for short drives in between jobs, which will keep everything else in working order, grease pumped round bearings, oil pumped around gearboxes and engines, etc.

We have been doing a rolling restoration on a 64 Series 2a for about 3 years. It was running when we bought it, and on a new galv chassis, but almost everything else was knackered, or on it's last legs.
But we have managed to keep it on the road throughout, except when the gearbox was sent off for recon and the like.
So we have been able to take it to several classic vehicle events, and on two charity runs, and my wife has used it for picking up hay bales and other items.
Which is good for the vehicle, and also means we are getting some value for our investment, and have the psychological comfort of a running vehicle rather than looking at a pile of parts in a shed.
 
I feel that the advice given from both Turboman and Steve is very sound. Back in the late 90's I almost bought a defender I decided against it ( very expensive). Later I bought a Willys SW more cost affective but no where in the condition of my present Landy. After a brief cruise from front of the house to rear garage.. there it sat, for years never getting to enjoy the vehicle. In the end I had to sell everything because I needed the room.
Your advice rang true. Enjoy it while maintaining it....no pressure.
I think a little general service maintenance, maybe a really needed new exhaust system( can't drive if you can't breath).
Thanks..you guys are great
 
Rhode rover said:
As for have one go through customs, it's a thought but I don't think I'll have to go that route. Rover North is located in Vermont, about a 6 hour ride from Rhode Island. They have them there
Click to expand...

I didn't realise you could buy a new chassis from a company in the USA. I do know that their vehicle import rules are a lot stricter than the UK.
 
Yes, powers at be are very anal about that sort of thing.
The company is really not that far away in the big picture. Most likely drive if part was needed in a hurry.
 
Rhode rover said:
I feel that the advice given from both Turboman and Steve is very sound. Back in the late 90's I almost bought a defender I decided against it ( very expensive). Later I bought a Willys SW more cost affective but no where in the condition of my present Landy. After a brief cruise from front of the house to rear garage.. there it sat, for years never getting to enjoy the vehicle. In the end I had to sell everything because I needed the room.
Your advice rang true. Enjoy it while maintaining it....no pressure.
I think a little general service maintenance, maybe a really needed new exhaust system( can't drive if you can't breath).
Thanks..you guys are great
Click to expand...
For exhausts, etc, have a look at this website. They mail to the US, click on the section about delivery.
It will probably be worth your while to assemble a bit of an order, to get value for the delivery.

If there are similar services available in the US, might be better to go with them, but I have no idea, for obvious reasons.
https://www.paddockspares.com/
 
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