.......gee....Druim.......gis a break............I've entered several variations.....I have indeed read up on virtually all posts with relevance, was just hoping to find a compact, point buy point check list (hopefully with a bit more explanation attached)

P
 
.......gee....Druim.......gis a break............I've entered several variations.....I have indeed read up on virtually all posts with relevance, was just hoping to find a compact, point buy point check list (hopefully with a bit more explanation attached)

P


Needing a break? Go and have a lie down:D
 
In my experience:

RF receiver.
EAS
HEVAC
Diesel - cold start
Petrol - slipped liner

Check every damn electrical thing - which is just about everything - and if it doesn't work then walk. Check the central locking and all keys extensively.

The manual's can be as tricky as the autos with the selector on top of the gearbox. If it doesn't change smoothly and easily (transfer into high and low ratio too) then walk.

If al that's fine then the first repair bill for the viscous coupling or whatever should be just about affordable!

J
 
Replying to the original post. You're buying an at least ten year old car, I don't think the dealer history is relevant any more. I believe a competent keen DIYer would look after a P38 and its foibles better than a main dealer. L322s and their much-needed software updates are different. P38s are generally all spanners and 1st gen solid state electronics.

As for Diags. The Nanocom is the best bet as you don't need to carry a laptop.

Buy one that has been well looked after (not necessarily by a dealer) and with no major (obvious) faults.
 
I did my research on here and bought a 2002 model with 90k on the clock, this was last August so I've had it a year. I checked everything:
EAS worked
All electrics worked
No leaks
Great, I bought it.

*It developed a central locking fault - cured by replacing the boot button
*Developed an oil leak - replaced oil cooler pipes
*Failed MOT last month on wheel bearing and a warning on 2 others and failed on trackrods
*I serviced the suspension as the bags looked very worn (only have 8 year life). Services compressor etc
*Burst radiator
*Replaced failed thermostat
*Replaced water cooler (preventative)
*Replaced air con belt
*Replaced brakes and discs all round

So, excluding tyres and the Nanocom I bought to go with it, it's cost me around £1500 (I had to pay labour on some of the jobs like the burst rad as I had to be recovered)

With the Nanocom (essential purchase) and tyres (wear and tear item) it's cost nearer £2500!!

I was warned that owning a Range Rover was a lifestyle choice but I still wouldn't have believed how expensive to run they are. Of course whilst mine looked ok, it probably had a load of jobs waiting to be done. If I sold it now, the owner should have one that's ok!! :) So yes, I agree with the previous post. Buy off someone that loves working on them. Find one on here from a regular.

Nik
 
Very true Saint.V8, as ever fore warned is fore armed so at least, I can go into it eyes wide open. Again, I've run older supercars so am aware of supercar costs staying with said car as the years advance, so its trying to avoid a complete dog and or give me a bit of leeway in the final negotiation if required.

I have an extensive list of checks to be going on with, but at any time, any older car can give you bother.


P
 
In my experience:

RF receiver.
EAS
HEVAC
Diesel - Hot start
Petrol - slipped liner

Check every damn electrical thing - which is just about everything - and if it doesn't work then walk. Check the central locking and all keys extensively.

The manual's can be as tricky as the autos with the selector on top of the gearbox. If it doesn't change smoothly and easily (transfer into high and low ratio too) then walk.

If al that's fine then the first repair bill for the viscous coupling or whatever should be just about affordable!

J
Edited for accuracy:)
 
I did my research on here and bought a 2002 model with 90k on the clock, this was last August so I've had it a year. I checked everything:
EAS worked
All electrics worked
No leaks
Great, I bought it.

*It developed a central locking fault - cured by replacing the boot button
*Developed an oil leak - replaced oil cooler pipes
*Failed MOT last month on wheel bearing and a warning on 2 others and failed on trackrods
*I serviced the suspension as the bags looked very worn (only have 8 year life). Services compressor etc
*Burst radiator
*Replaced failed thermostat
*Replaced water cooler (preventative)
*Replaced air con belt
*Replaced brakes and discs all round

So, excluding tyres and the Nanocom I bought to go with it, it's cost me around £1500 (I had to pay labour on some of the jobs like the burst rad as I had to be recovered)

With the Nanocom (essential purchase) and tyres (wear and tear item) it's cost nearer £2500!!

I was warned that owning a Range Rover was a lifestyle choice but I still wouldn't have believed how expensive to run they are. Of course whilst mine looked ok, it probably had a load of jobs waiting to be done. If I sold it now, the owner should have one that's ok!! :) So yes, I agree with the previous post. Buy off someone that loves working on them. Find one on here from a regular.

Nik
Including a Faultmate Extreme and 4 new tyres, I don't think mine has cost £2,500 to run in 4years:) Bought blind off a bloke who worked for LR and trialed a series.
 

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