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Arnodafe72

Member
Hi guys ! Thanks for all the help so far over the past couple of years! Quick question - just like the fuel pump fuel meter in the 2005 Facelift Freelander 1 1.8l petrol K-series 18K4F engine 86kw 117hp has a specialized circuit board that is 'reversed' in resistance, meaning that if you put a 'normal' Freelander 1 fuel pump in there - it will read as empty when full of fuel on the dash....does the Facelift need a special CV joint? I put a Freelander 1 abs joint in my car which fits (as stated), but destroys/bends the abs sensor inside - thus resulting in the 3 Amigos situation. A newly purchased 'correct' sensor will not go in fully due to rhe CV joint - apparently i have an abs system that reads of the wheel bearing magnetically ? Can anyone confirm this or know different and if i need a special CV joint - does anyone have a link or a part number ? Thanks in advance ! All help and advice appreciated! NB: should there be a spacer/washer/ring in side the wheel house to so that the CV joint doesn't medt the abs sensor ? Regards, arnodafe72
 
Arnodafe72 said:
Hi guys ! Thanks for all the help so far over the past couple of years! Quick question - just like the fuel pump fuel meter in the 2005 Facelift Freelander 1 1.8l petrol K-series 18K4F engine 86kw 117hp has a specialized circuit board that is 'reversed' in resistance, meaning that if you put a 'normal' Freelander 1 fuel pump in there - it will read as empty when full of fuel on the dash....does the Facelift need a special CV joint? I put a Freelander 1 abs joint in my car which fits (as stated), but destroys/bends the abs sensor inside - thus resulting in the 3 Amigos situation. A newly purchased 'correct' sensor will not go in fully due to rhe CV joint - apparently i have an abs system that reads of the wheel bearing magnetically ? Can anyone confirm this or know different and if i need a special CV joint - does anyone have a link or a part number ? Thanks in advance ! All help and advice appreciated! NB: should there be a spacer/washer/ring in side the wheel house to so that the CV joint doesn't medt the abs sensor ? Regards, arnodafe72
Click to expand...
I came across this issue when I replaced my driveshafts last year. The new driveshaft came with the reluctor ring attached, so I just tapped the ring off. I don't think there was any other difference.
 
Gibbo1982 said:
I came across this issue when I replaced my driveshafts last year. The new driveshaft came with the reluctor ring attached, so I just tapped the ring off. I don't think there was any other difference.
Click to expand...
Yeah, i tapped mine off aswell t o get it to fit, but it seems to go in too far and bends the abs, then the new abs won't go fully down either in order to work....you didn't have that problem ? Was your reluctor ring on the outside flush to the rubber boot ?
 
andyfreelandy said:
All covered in this thread
www.landyzone.co.uk

The Three Amigos - ABS problem error cide after changing right outer drive axel CV joint !

Hi guys - if you can help - heard clicking when i turn under load and decided to change the right outer drive axel. The new part i got for my Freelander 1.8L petrol 4WD K-series 18K4F engine 86kw 117 hp is confirmed as a fit ! However on changing, i couldn't get the drive axel back into the hub...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Yeah, but still stuck on solution. I noticed that there are two different CV joints for the Freelander 1 - one is 144.5mm and the other 146mm long which has the outer abs ring - should i have the longer one ? Both have same number of splines etc. See pics
 

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You need the correct length for the application..so LH and RH and different gearbox etc. Measure old one.

The ABS ring must be taken off.
The bit that fits in the hub is the same on all the lengths.

With the ring removed your sensor should.not touch the shaft at all.
 
andyfreelandy said:
You need the correct length for the application..so LH and RH and different gearbox etc. Measure old one.

The ABS ring must be taken off.
The bit that fits in the hub is the same on all the lengths.

With the ring removed your sensor should.not touch the shaft at all.
Click to expand...
The one with no ring is a little shorter ....15mm . Could be the solution. I still have the old one - when i get time i'll check it. Its just so odd there's no immediate part for it - marked for my car. All the CV joints fit even for my VIN number, but only 1 is correct.....
 
Arnodafe72 said:
Yeah, i tapped mine off aswell t o get it to fit, but it seems to go in too far and bends the abs, then the new abs won't go fully down either in order to work....you didn't have that problem ? Was your reluctor ring on the outside flush to the rubber boot ?
Click to expand...
I had no issue like that. Just took the abs ring off and it fitted fine. I thought the older driveshaft was more or less the same except for the reluctor ring?
 
andyfreelandy said:
All covered in this thread
www.landyzone.co.uk

The Three Amigos - ABS problem error cide after changing right outer drive axel CV joint !

Hi guys - if you can help - heard clicking when i turn under load and decided to change the right outer drive axel. The new part i got for my Freelander 1.8L petrol 4WD K-series 18K4F engine 86kw 117 hp is confirmed as a fit ! However on changing, i couldn't get the drive axel back into the hub...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Hi again Andy ! Yeah, i put back my old CV joint which was on when everything was working fine and replaced the ABS sensor with a new one, as the new CV joint which was slightly different, i had put on had bent and possibly 'damaged' the old sensor giving me the C1034 code. With the old CV joint back on and the new sensor in place, the 3 Amigos went away as it tried to clear itself. But they cam e back ! The first code i got was C1035, then after i cleared that with the computer, i now get the same C1034 error .....any ideas ? Do you think i damaged the lines on the inside of the wheel bearing that its supposed to read or ....? Any help appreciated! Regards arnodafe72
 
C1035 suggests sensor open or short circuit.

Worth unplugging, check pins not bent, clean pins and make sure plug is fully pushed in.

Worth a go. I have never had a driveshaft that doesn't fit. Just tap off the ring if not needed and all works OK.
 
The part i put in was VKJA 5508
The old sensor attachment bolt was seized so u was given a device where i bored a hole centered then tapped in a high steel shaft which then would have a 6 sided 'nut' slid over to better turn with a spanner - it broke off leaving the strengthened steel rod left partially inside which is then almost impossible to drill out, to clear for the bolt on the new sensor. Thus the new sensor is only pushed all the wat as far as i can and is flush but not now held in place with the bolt. There is no ground needed here so thats not a problem. That is the only difference now though - that there is no bolt holding the sensor - otherwise i have damaged what the sensor is supposed to read inside the wheel house ? I doubt the new sensor has a fault - it is interesting noe that both sensors give the sane fault code, suggesting that the bent original sensor was still working. When i reset the fault code C1034 which is ll that comes up now, the TC light flickers a little then goes out before all three Amigos lights come on later. In short - the original drive axel and a new sensor but same problem.....a while lot of work for nothing - is there a nubb or something on the inside that the sensor is to read that i may have knocked off with the screwdriver while cleaning out the rust flakes in there ? If there is supposed to be two lines on the wheel bearing - i don't see them. Regards arnodafe72
 

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andyfreelandy said:
Have you checked the plug and socket, they get easily damaged???
Click to expand...
Gonna try to replace the bearing with the magnetism. I have a Freelander 1 1.8L 'Facelift' - my only problem up here in north Sweden is i kinda have to find the part myself. There are two different ones i that come up and both say they fit my car - one is 82.5mm in diameter and 37.1mm inner diameter - the other is 82 mm and 37 inner ...do you know which one i should have ? Do you have a part number if possible ? I saw a part number on another feed you were on as RFC000010 ....would this be correct ? Much appreciated! Arnold 🍷😏
 
Fantastic! One says 48 pairs of poles N/S which then is 96 magnets which was mentioned on the earlier thread i saw. Hopefully this will do the job.
On another note , some say front wheel, others say back, and some say all wheels - are they not the same on all four ?
Also, as a pre check - how do you measure the abs cable as functioning - is it ohms and what should it be ? Thanks again man - salute ! 🍷😏
 
The sensors are active and can't be tested in ohms. They require a supply voltage to work. You could do a comparative test to the others but use a high impedance meter or you may damage them.

All wheel bearings are the same for front and rear. Make sure you get them the right way around with magnetic straps innermost.
 
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