Hippo
Lord Hippo
Sorry, but yer need to go to a garage who knows what they're doing.
The first thing they should be doing is clearing the code then driving it to see if it comes back again. It may have been an old code from before, where the fault is no longer present. If yer clear it and it dun't come back then it's not a current issue.
The garage should have written down the test results from the resistance test. Knowing the results from this will tell you it a solenoid coil is out of specification or not. The value may be wrong indicating open circuit wiring or solenoid.
The code is reporting an electrical problem with a particular solenoid. The fault if still present is somewhere in the wiring harness from the auto's computer to the gearbox, including inside the gearbox. It could be:
coil inside solenoid open circuit, high resistance or low resistance.
barrel connectors not joining correctly - don't cover the contacts in anything to try to get them to conduct betterer - it won't work.
broken wire in harness used to that solenoid.
wire used for that solenoid caught on something and split, and shorted to ground (metal work).
pins in auto gearbox computer connectors damaged or pulled out of said connector.
pins snapped oft the auto gearbox computer connector.
If you know of someone with a multimeter (or normal resistance only meter) which can measure resistance you can get them to perform the resistance checks. Just follow the video I put on you tube. Or buy one yerself. We can help you pick one.
The first thing they should be doing is clearing the code then driving it to see if it comes back again. It may have been an old code from before, where the fault is no longer present. If yer clear it and it dun't come back then it's not a current issue.
The garage should have written down the test results from the resistance test. Knowing the results from this will tell you it a solenoid coil is out of specification or not. The value may be wrong indicating open circuit wiring or solenoid.
The code is reporting an electrical problem with a particular solenoid. The fault if still present is somewhere in the wiring harness from the auto's computer to the gearbox, including inside the gearbox. It could be:
coil inside solenoid open circuit, high resistance or low resistance.
barrel connectors not joining correctly - don't cover the contacts in anything to try to get them to conduct betterer - it won't work.
broken wire in harness used to that solenoid.
wire used for that solenoid caught on something and split, and shorted to ground (metal work).
pins in auto gearbox computer connectors damaged or pulled out of said connector.
pins snapped oft the auto gearbox computer connector.
If you know of someone with a multimeter (or normal resistance only meter) which can measure resistance you can get them to perform the resistance checks. Just follow the video I put on you tube. Or buy one yerself. We can help you pick one.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Clearing the code won't fix it. If the auto's computer detects a fault it doesn't like it will go into limp mode to protect the gearbox. When it does this it will select 4th gear and flash F4. There are situations where a Freelander 1 will drive normally for many miles... then an intermittent fault will re-appear. If it's a big enough problem to require limp mode to be activated in order to protect the gearbox, then it will. It's not unusual to switch oft, restart and drive away as normal until the fault happens again if its intermittent.
Over the years I've come across lots of situations were peeps guess the fault. From what yer said on the other fred the garage man didn't seem too knowledgeable on fault finding the Jatco auto. The resistance test video I made (can't believe it's had 39500 views) is a common test to do on auto gearboxes and well known in the trade. Yer just need to know the right connections and the tolerance of values to eggspect. The internet makes this easy to find.
I get the feeling he may have seen the fault code and not been able to find any other fault so he took a guess it was that solenoid. This in a way is understandable. I have known peeps to have their auto gearbox replaced due to a particular fault, which then clears and they're happy until the intermittent fault in the wiring harness reappears some days/weeks after the eggspensive gearbox change. Hence why we always push for investigation first.
We need someone oft ere who has a hawkeye who lives near to you to offer to help. I'm too far away. I do travel all over sometimes but don't have anything up your way at the moment. They can read/clear codes for you. It is always worth looking at the engine and abs computers at the same time as the auto gearbox computer as they all work together to propel the car.
Over the years I've come across lots of situations were peeps guess the fault. From what yer said on the other fred the garage man didn't seem too knowledgeable on fault finding the Jatco auto. The resistance test video I made (can't believe it's had 39500 views) is a common test to do on auto gearboxes and well known in the trade. Yer just need to know the right connections and the tolerance of values to eggspect. The internet makes this easy to find.
I get the feeling he may have seen the fault code and not been able to find any other fault so he took a guess it was that solenoid. This in a way is understandable. I have known peeps to have their auto gearbox replaced due to a particular fault, which then clears and they're happy until the intermittent fault in the wiring harness reappears some days/weeks after the eggspensive gearbox change. Hence why we always push for investigation first.
We need someone oft ere who has a hawkeye who lives near to you to offer to help. I'm too far away. I do travel all over sometimes but don't have anything up your way at the moment. They can read/clear codes for you. It is always worth looking at the engine and abs computers at the same time as the auto gearbox computer as they all work together to propel the car.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
An alternative is a visit to a main dealer for 1 hour fixed price investigation. They will check it from cold and perform a resistance check and check the fluid level is correct. Also read/clear codes etc. It's about £130 at the moment unless yer int London where prices are a bit higher. I don't know of any other alternative garages in your area.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Did he change the 2/4 Duty solenoid? Or the 2/4 Timing solenoid?
A 2/4 Drive solenoid doesn't exist.
Here's the solenoids, names, locations and the resistances
In my experience, it's the 2/4 Duty solenoid that fails first. This causes really rough gear changes, where it slams into gear.
I have one of these faults at the moment. Mine is faultless 99.9% of the time. Then suddenly out the blue, it drops to 1st and stays there, until I select reverse, or cycle the ignition.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Was 2/4brake duty solonoid. It was ruff gear change at first . But just goes in limp mode straight away soon as drive selected
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Was it slamming into gear?
Shaun4456
Active Member
Did at first. Was going in gear with bang
Or should say when it changed gear
Last edited:
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's what a failed 2/4 Brake Duty solenoid does. It makes the box shift gears very roughly, sometimes making the tyres slip as it changes up.
Your best bet is to test the resistance of all thw solenoids
Hippo
Lord Hippo
according to rave P1748 is:
2-4 brake duty solenoid
Open circuit or short circuit to earth or battery
P1749 isn't listed int rave. I have just looked in the P code lockup bit of me hawkeye and it's not listed for the FL. It is for other cars but they all seem to have different eggsplanations for the same code. This sort of confirms it's nota code supported by the FL but an online search provides:
P1749 Pressure Control Solenoid Failed Low
from https://akppro.com/en/tools/obd
2-4 brake duty solenoid
Open circuit or short circuit to earth or battery
P1749 isn't listed int rave. I have just looked in the P code lockup bit of me hawkeye and it's not listed for the FL. It is for other cars but they all seem to have different eggsplanations for the same code. This sort of confirms it's nota code supported by the FL but an online search provides:
P1749 Pressure Control Solenoid Failed Low
from https://akppro.com/en/tools/obd
Hippo
Lord Hippo
That's an interesting fault. Does the dash display and the LED's by the gear lever still read correct when it defaults to 1st without you touching/moving the gear lever? It would make me think the "what gear selected" signals from the lever controlling the switch ont top of the auto... via the second barrel connector are playing up. If the dash and lever LED's are correct then that would confirm the barrel connector is generally ok, but a possible intermittent fault that's going to be a sod to find without a diagnostic to see what live data says at the time of the fault, or the fault sticking around long enough so yer can investigate with a meter.
Last edited:
Shaun4456
Active Member
It shows what gear am in on dash for 1 second then throws f4 code And yellow decent up again
But can see it's in drive fir 1 sec
Hippo
Lord Hippo
The easier/betterer type to buy is an auto ranging meter, as opposed to one where you have to manually select the range.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Will buy one tomorrow as need this fixed
Heads fried lol
Hippo
Lord Hippo
The bit I wrote above about first gear and LED's was in reply to what nodge said about his own auto.
Regarding your fault... have to had the codes read in the ABS computer to see why the yellow hill decent light comes on? Does it only come on when F4 flashing appears when the auto goes into limp home mode? Have yer put the car into first gear 1 option on a hill and tried to use hill decent by turning it on and taking yer feet oft the pedals? If yer eggscellerate a bit to 10mph then take yer feet oft do the brakes come on to slow it down (that's hdc working)?
