WLJayne
Well-Known Member
So another full day spent tinkering! As I mentioned in the earlier thread I was having trouble bleeding the system after I installed the EBP. Well today we first tried re-routing the heater outlet to where it used to be, this stopped the level in the expansion tank from rising during run on mode. But there was still a **** load of air in the system and we'd bled and bled and bled it.
My thoughts then turned to how air might be getting into the system initially my heart sank as I thought it could be HGF again but there were no other signs, well the only hoses connected to air are the two bleed hoses on the tank, one coming from that radiator and one coming from the head. "Ah ha!" I thought, maybe the jiggle valve is stuck and won't let air out of the head! So off comes the intake manifold and on goes a test squeeze-bulb. Nope, the jiggle valve wan't stick - but, soft, what is this? When I apply vacuum (from the tank side) the jiggle valve closes, and when I apply pressure it opens. So any air trying to escape the head is going to close the valve! Fat lot of good that is! After much pondering my mind turned once again to flow direction, low and behold it looks like the standard system applys pressure to the valve and keeps it closed for the most part but on the EWP system it's being sucked open and all that nasssty air is getting sucked into the head! To think that we wouldn't have known this without installing the EBP! But I think the EBP is the culprit, it has improved flow through the head a great deal and this is a side effect.
So we fitted a T connector to the header tank feed hose and routed the jiggle valve bleed hose to that, so that no it always has a positive head of water but will still let air out too. We blanked off the old junction but the air can still come up from the rad bleeder. But there's now no way it can let air in.
After refilling the coolant FOR THE SEVENTH TIME since I got the Freebie, and bleeding the system via the standard bleed points AGAIN the results are looking good. The EBP no longer cavitates, you can hear a small amount of air in the system but that will bleed itself off I reckon.
As for heater performance, I now get warm air through the heater within about 60 secs of start up. Result!!! So, thus far I think that's another cooling nut cracked
.
Oh and when the heater really gets up to temperature it's fooking face meltingly hot, which is exactly what I wanted!
Will.
My thoughts then turned to how air might be getting into the system initially my heart sank as I thought it could be HGF again but there were no other signs, well the only hoses connected to air are the two bleed hoses on the tank, one coming from that radiator and one coming from the head. "Ah ha!" I thought, maybe the jiggle valve is stuck and won't let air out of the head! So off comes the intake manifold and on goes a test squeeze-bulb. Nope, the jiggle valve wan't stick - but, soft, what is this? When I apply vacuum (from the tank side) the jiggle valve closes, and when I apply pressure it opens. So any air trying to escape the head is going to close the valve! Fat lot of good that is! After much pondering my mind turned once again to flow direction, low and behold it looks like the standard system applys pressure to the valve and keeps it closed for the most part but on the EWP system it's being sucked open and all that nasssty air is getting sucked into the head! To think that we wouldn't have known this without installing the EBP! But I think the EBP is the culprit, it has improved flow through the head a great deal and this is a side effect.
So we fitted a T connector to the header tank feed hose and routed the jiggle valve bleed hose to that, so that no it always has a positive head of water but will still let air out too. We blanked off the old junction but the air can still come up from the rad bleeder. But there's now no way it can let air in.
After refilling the coolant FOR THE SEVENTH TIME since I got the Freebie, and bleeding the system via the standard bleed points AGAIN the results are looking good. The EBP no longer cavitates, you can hear a small amount of air in the system but that will bleed itself off I reckon.
As for heater performance, I now get warm air through the heater within about 60 secs of start up. Result!!! So, thus far I think that's another cooling nut cracked
.Oh and when the heater really gets up to temperature it's fooking face meltingly hot, which is exactly what I wanted!
Will.
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