WLJayne said:
Yeh course :). But I don't think they;d be that interested, they're doing quite a bit on Hippo's themselves at the moment anyway.

It'd just be nice to have something like Hippo's guide to Hippo's as that's a really good link for newbs.
Click to expand...

it's an outstanding idea though, the main man is Mad Hat Man he has more experience than all of us put together and is constantly ushering newbs to the FAQ's section.

a betterer navigation to this is a must for them.


i'm off to me pit
ciao

oh just seen this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/cheap-low-coolant-level-alarm-211159.html bye ;)
 
Last edited:
WLJayne said:
Fair play to you mate your head was in the right place though I'm still glad we did it :). Like JM said, EWP doesn't really offer proven benefits over properly maintained latest version K series cooling/gaskets.



Yeh probably some class lanes nearby, I'm planning some mini-expeditions to the Blacks and Beacons next year (camping and laning hols) so maybe we'll see you there :).
Click to expand...
Heatsoak
Cavitation
And, most importantly, a cooling system based on engine coolant temperature and not on the cooling efficiency of the radiator :(.
 
Is there anything to find by comparing the different vehicles that have K series engines ..Ive had a Rover 214i and a Rover Metro GTa in the family, have had no HG problem with either ... the engines must be of the same build so there may be a way of comparing the cooling systems of known problem cars and not so problematic cars ....just a thought.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Heatsoak
Cavitation
And, most importantly, a cooling system based on engine coolant temperature and not on the cooling efficiency of the radiator :(.
Click to expand...

All true, but is it worth £400 when it's still somewhat unproven? Nothing to stop peeps trying and I hope they do but for now I'm calling time on my own experiment. Maybe I'll come back to it one day. Like I said if HG goes again I'll try it once more.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Real, well documented issues.
Click to expand...
not just the fact that knife edge liners trying to seal on narrow poor sealant surface on the gasket when disimilar metals will move with heat,considering most manage and an improved gasket aint going to help an overheated head if its relaxed or poor liner positioning due to original problem ,trying to over cool an engine aint a fix its a mask
 
You both make excellent points, the K series seems to have a very low tolerance for heat damage and in some cases it's irreversible :(. But no engine is perfect - the Japanese 1.8's weigh crap loads more than the K I think I've read - it's all about balance and compromise.
 
WLJayne said:
You both make excellent points, the K series seems to have a very low tolerance for heat damage and in some cases it's irreversible :(. But no engine is perfect - the Japanese 1.8's weigh crap loads more than the K I think I've read - it's all about balance and compromise.
Click to expand...
the power to weight has never been bettered and is still a favourite of the Elise mob :)
 
WLJayne said:
You both make excellent points, the K series seems to have a very low tolerance for heat damage and in some cases it's irreversible :(. But no engine is perfect - the Japanese 1.8's weigh crap loads more than the K I think I've read - it's all about balance and compromise.
Click to expand...

The main problem with the K is it's cooling system and the fact the thermostat is in the wrong place. As it senses the water temp returning from the rad which has had any heat removed thus the opening is so delayed that the engine temp rises will above a sensible level before it opens. The upshot of this is the alloy has expanded by a larger degree than the elasopolimer seals can take, then the stat opens dumping cold water into an expanded almost overheated engine which suddenly shrinks the alloy back down. This cycle is repeated thousands of times until the seals fail. If the stat is moved to a more conventional place on the flow to the rad this will give a much faster response on warm up and also give a better general tempreture control which can only be a good thing. This coupled with the uprated parts should see an end to the K's reliability issues. The PRT stat is a sort of halfway house solution by allowing a small amount of water to circulate through the rad at higher rpm so reducing the thermal shock to the engine. Qed do a kit that will put the stat in the correct place to start with.
 
Last edited:
Garboy88 said:
Been thinking... When my k series finally decides to let go, do I replace the engine with a rebuilt 1 or get another freelander, diesel tho and use mine for parts or is it possible and worth it to convert mine to a L series diesel or a td4

Any positive opinions would be great... And no I'm not buying a rot box disco or defender :p lol
Click to expand...

Just fix it and sell/exchange for a diesel, not worth the hassle exchanging looms and ECU
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Do you have TD5 engines to get rid of?
Replies
0
Views
663
Alpinejim
A
T
Alternator
Replies
4
Views
564
Tizzie
T
GrumpyGel
Is it to long? - ooh ahh
Replies
18
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
xDParis64
Gearbox Compatibility
Replies
4
Views
835
xDParis64
xDParis64
E
Freelander 1 Fitting new crankshaft rear oil seal and oil sump gasket to L series
Replies
1
Views
507
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel