hd3

hd3

Well-Known Member
Full Member
greeting all :cool:
i'm needing to replace the coolant pump.
whilst mulling over the prospect of a d.i.y. job .. i'm considering getting one of these,

Clarke CEC500DS Dual Hook Engine/Gearbox Support - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk www.machinemart.co.uk
there are other models on the page ..

questions :
1] are those suitable for the fl1 ? .. if so, would the one with the cross beam be better ?
2] to what part of the td4 would the chains/hooks be attached to ?
( tbh .. i've not yet looked into ?2 .. lifted the bonnet for a look, searched youtube,
( flipped through the haynes or googled .. only just decided to make a move on this job ;-/

i prefer that method to using a trolley-jack .. cobbled street on slight incline, plus the under-tray would need removal. [ no garage ]
the beam weighs less than a t.jack and be more convenient to store.
my other choice be suitable bottle jack .. but i'd still prefer to support engine from top.

i've not messed with that part of the engine before .. belts, alt, hp.pump replaced at garages.
bothers me a tad that i've never tried changing belts myself. :vb-eyes:
...............
:vb-coffee:
.
 
Just make sure that you don't sit the load on the plastic front wings where there is a gap under the top edge where the wing is bolted on.

If you look.along the top of the wing you'll see what I mean.

Freelander 1 that is.
 
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Never used mine on either of our family FL1's, besides it will get in the way doing the water pump. Easier to use a trolley jack & wood block underneath.

I did one recently & also unbolted the NS engine mount. Got an extra 1/2" space to get the pump out !!
 
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BTW, I did a coolant pump without touching any mounts.
Access through track rod slot in wheel arch.

Fiddly but possible.
 
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The more you take off the tray the easier it'll become. And the support will support the engine but sometimes you need to move the engine higher or to the side. Trolley jack is safer than a bottle jack. Decent ramps help, I use Halfords ones as they have a less steep slope. If under the car a foam mat is great to use, especially if your on cobbles.
 
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Thanx all for thoughts and advice 👍
and pointing out things that i probably wouldn't have thought about. :oops:
....
a trolley jack might be best .. if i can find a relatively lite-weight job.
i.e. am getting on in years + a long term back injury .
[ screwed it up badly changing the starter motor not so recently ]

mmmmmmmmmmm ..
andyfreelandy said:
Access through track rod slot in wheel arch.
Click to expand...
i'll certainly look into that method :vb-eyes: .. :)
.
 
Last edited:
I agree on that. The reason I had to tilt the engine was to replace the rusted core plug in the cylinder head just above the thermostat housing. Effing nightmare. Pump & stat replaced just in case while I was in there.
 
hd3 said:
greeting all :cool:
i'm needing to replace the coolant pump.
whilst mulling over the prospect of a d.i.y. job .. i'm considering getting one of these,

Clarke CEC500DS Dual Hook Engine/Gearbox Support - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk www.machinemart.co.uk
there are other models on the page ..

questions :
1] are those suitable for the fl1 ? .. if so, would the one with the cross beam be better ?
2] to what part of the td4 would the chains/hooks be attached to ?
( tbh .. i've not yet looked into ?2 .. lifted the bonnet for a look, searched youtube,
( flipped through the haynes or googled .. only just decided to make a move on this job ;-/

i prefer that method to using a trolley-jack .. cobbled street on slight incline, plus the under-tray would need removal. [ no garage ]
the beam weighs less than a t.jack and be more convenient to store.
my other choice be suitable bottle jack .. but i'd still prefer to support engine from top.

i've not messed with that part of the engine before .. belts, alt, hp.pump replaced at garages.
bothers me a tad that i've never tried changing belts myself. :vb-eyes:
...............
:vb-coffee:
.
Click to expand...
Used this when I replaced my gearbox, and actually used it and some brute strength to remove the engine, problem I came across is that the engine sits very far forward in the engine bay and so you end up with the having to pull the engine backwards, which when trying to get to the coolant pump can cause some issues as the body starts to get in the way.

Do forgive me if I missed it but this is assuming you mean the 1.8 petrol and not the TD4,
 
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