IamRobbie

IamRobbie

Well-Known Member
I have a spare 200tdi engine that requires a new piston ect. As it's the first time I've ever stripped an engine I don't own all the required tools to do it.

With santa not far away I'm going to put a Christmas list as I've been a real good boy this year....honest!

So searching Google the following tools have pipped up:

Valve compressor
Bore gauge
Dial gauge (veneers?) - I have veneers are they the same?
Cylinder honing tool - ordered already
Lifter puller - is this needed?
Piston ring compressor - from my understanding of what I've read it's easier to do with screw drivers?
Feeler gauge set. - I own a couple of sets
Engine stand. - on order with Mrs claus..

Is there anything else I will need?
I understand I'll need multiple freezer bags to bag things up separatey and I need to check things before undoing them. Basically follow the workshop guide.

Ta!
 
Don't be tempted to use a screwdriver, piston ring compressors aren't much and waaay easier.

Sounds good list though.

A large quantity of degreaser would be good also an old school oil can so you can oil things as you put it back together

Torque gauge and a dial gauge for the headbolts
Tippex to mark bolts you have torqued up
 
There's no veneer in 'ere...
A degreasing tank is very useful.
As said, don't use screwdrivers on the rings.
Get some thick cardboard ( the boxes flat pack kitchens come in are ace) to lay the crank, head etc on.
Valve grinding paste and a sucker stick.
Pot of grease to help hold bits in place like the valve stem collets.
Gasket scrapperer.
Oil can.
 
A vernier (or 'very near' as they are known) are ok for most measurements but if you need 0.1mm or greater accuracy then really you should use a micrometer. Be aware that resolution and accuracy are two different things, resolution means that it can display differences of say 0.01mm (for a vernier) it doesn't mean that a displayed 10.00 mm reading is actually a true 10.00 mm. With measuring instruments (as with most things) you get what you pay for.

You will need a dial gauge and stand for measuring piston protrusion, valve stand down and crank / cam endfloat (not the same as a vernier)
Lint free cloth
Engine assembly lube (although you can get away with engine oil)
Timing pin set
Crank pulley holder (for getting pulley bolt undone / torqued up)
Plastigauge (for measuring big end and main bearing clearances)
 
If you loosen the crank pulley bolt before removing flywheel you can bolt a bar across the flywheel using clutch mounting bolts to hold it still.
Pullers will be needed for crank pulley and timing gears if you are stripping totally.
Made some for mine from plate I had lying around.
 
There is no flywheel with this engine and the Crank bolt is undone because the timing plate is also off. Alot is missing from the engine at the minute
 
Oh and buy some gasket positioning stuff - it's like pritt stick but purple and for gaskets and saves a lot of faffing
 
Thanks everyone. I'm gonna print the workshop manual off at work some time soon. Any tips on stopping the block from going rusty when it's back to the bare metal
 
IamRobbie said:
Last thing I'm struggling to find is inside micrometer that isn't too expensive
Click to expand...
Get a set of bore gauges like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Telescopi...526968?hash=item35f77e76b8:g:~QgAAOSw7NNUB2xC (prices can vary so look around). They expands inside the bore then you lock then and remove from the bore, you can then measure with a normal external micrometers. Bore micrometers have a limited use so I would rather have something more useful (external ones) and a set of these gauges. You can get very accurate and repeatable readings with them.
 
Kwakerman said:
Get a set of bore gauges like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Telescopi...526968?hash=item35f77e76b8:g:~QgAAOSw7NNUB2xC (prices can vary so look around). They expands inside the bore then you lock then and remove from the bore, you can then measure with a normal external micrometers. Bore micrometers have a limited use so I would rather have something more useful (external ones) and a set of these gauges. You can get very accurate and repeatable readings with them.
Click to expand...

I saved a set of these on eBay but then realised I would need a set of micrometers that do up to 4Inch as the bores are about 90mm?
 
I think I might take the plunge and buy the set of 4 outside micrometers next year then I've got them. Not quite sure on what else I'd need to use it on tho except for my engine rebuild
 
IamRobbie said:
I think I might take the plunge and buy the set of 4 outside micrometers next year then I've got them. Not quite sure on what else I'd need to use it on tho except for my engine rebuild
Click to expand...
I use the theory that tools are 'free' if I can buy a tool that saves me paying someone else to do a job then that tool has paid for itself (I've now got a lot of tools!). At the end of the day you still have the tool to use again if need be, as opposed to money where you use it once then it becomes someone else's property. :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
For Sale Freelander 2 TD4 Engine Parts
Replies
0
Views
764
CaptainB
C
J
Sport V6 2012 - Is a leaking ARC an MOT fail?
Replies
0
Views
606
Jmcg95
J
C
FL2 Engine Stopped While Driving - Dropped Valve, Engine Swap
9 10 11
Replies
211
Views
17K
CaptainB
C
Wagon Loon
300 tdi I gas flowed my new cylinder head, after head gasket fail, 97 Defender pick-up Peggy
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
S
Defenders Vs Insurers tomfoolery
Replies
0
Views
3K
shaynecm
S