Go your own way charles, i have seen many cars come into our workshop who have skipped services and they do not sound or go as well as the cars that have not skipped services, fact. You have a few examples of extended drain intervals not doing any harm, i have hundreds of examples that is does do harm.
Go your own way charles, i have seen many cars come into our workshop who have skipped services and they do not sound or go as well as the cars that have not skipped services, fact. You have a few examples of extended drain intervals not doing any harm, i have hundreds of examples that is does do harm.
Rubbish.
Skipping services at rip-off garages was never the problem.
You are NEVER going to persuade 95% of the people on this forum to your way of thinking.
Servicing according to a schedule is a VERY POOR SECOND to a proper system of on-going maintenance as and when required, carried out by a careful and competent owner. The problem nowadays is the sheer ignorance of so many car owners - thay haven't got a clue, and so they are easily ripped off by the garages. A LandRover dealer quoted me £840 to fit cruise control to my TD5 two months ago. The standard price is more like £400 to £450. It took me less than an hour, and £29.00 for the two switches.
By the way, I bet I've been in the garage business a lot longer than you, and serviced more cars than you, and been responsible for the servicing of more cars and trucks than you ever dreamed about.
I bought my first garage in 1970 ....
Quite a nice place it was too.
CharlesY
Ok Charles, if you dont have a maintenence schedule what checks do you do as a competant owner to your oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter to establish if replacement is required. As a former mechanic you will know there is no test you can do from your house or in a workshop to check these things. So i'm interested to know how far past the 6000 mile service interval you have worked out you can go before the lubricants performance starts to decay. By the way, i dont dream about servicing cars.
Riggaz
There may be no test YOU can do, but don't tell other people what they can or cannot do. Your self-belief is astonishing - and misplaced I fear. You seem to assume it is a certainty that you know more than the rest of us. To many people on this list it is quite clear that you don't know as much as they do, and worse, you seem neither to have the experience nor to have developed the judgement that so many of the LandRover people have. Perhaps in due course you will, but meantime I would suggest you back off a bit and stop telling people like me that what we've been doing so successfully for ourselves and others for decades and thousands of cars has been all a waste of time.
Maintenance is an on-going thing. Any other system is second-best.
Changing oils and oil filters should be done as a function of what the engine has done, rather than as a function of some arbitrary mileage or time. And in any event, so I change my oil at 6,000 miles, or 10,000 miles- so what? My oil costs me under £1 a litre for the very best of stuff. It's a superb premium grade 15w-40 for turbo diesels. I would really like to hear your reasons for it being "the wrong viscosity" and so on. Do tell.
Engines running nice long distances might be happy to change oil every 20,000 miles or more, whereas the wee old lady doing 3,000 miles a year and never goes more than five miles would do well to change her oil a bit more often than once in 2 or 3 years. Horses for courses, but, when you have profits to make, and mugs for customers, get them in on a schedule, and bill them BIG.
It's what garages do best.
CharlesY
The reason for it being the wrong viscosity is the fact that LR list 5w/30 and you are using 15w40 as i've told you time and time again you ****ing idiot, i havent plucked this out of the air it's what Land Rover recommend. That viscosity is fine for TDi engines and various others but not for yours. You have come to the conclusion that all garages and manufacturers are wrong about service intervals and you are right, how have you come to this conclusion? You say it's fine to go past the recommended interval, why? The polymers in oil break down and the oil gets contaminated with carbon and acid which corrode and wear your engine, at what point have you tested it is safe to take your engine to without causing it harm?
Riggaz
Ah ... now we get to the nub !
We are resorting to childish personal insults now! It had to come. You've lost control and that means you know you are in a hole, but yet you're still digging. There's a moral about digging when one is in a hole.
So I am a "****ing idiot" ! Wonderful! I love it. What does that make YOU in the eyes of most readers? I can only guess.
Now tell me and the list how you come to that conclusion, and where you get your information about which oil is suitable for MY car in MY circumstances. As a matter of interest your statement above as to recommended oil grade is quite incomplete, and simplistic.
So LandRover recommend it huh? Does that make it the Gospel, and if so, I suspect that is only because it suits your wallet. Not many people on this list take anything LandRover says at face value. But you believe if you like, because you don't have the experience or judgement to know better.
MY owner's manual goes a lot further than that, making it clear to me as a sensible responsible owner that the average best oil for me is probably a 10W/40. However, as I will never (I hope not!) be driving in +50°C conditions, nor under -10°C conditions, I may choose an oil that is ABSOLUTELY IDEAL for MY car in MY hands in MY CONDITIONS, and that's a 15W/30 premium grade meeting every specification under the sun, and prepared to be able to withstand the worst abuses engine oils will ever be subjected to, and among the worst operating conditions to boot. I do treat it carefully on cold starts, and make sure it is driven gently till the oil and water warm up a bit, but everyone knows to do that. Right?
The oil maker's blurb says my choice of oil is the latest state of the art mixed fleet multigrade oil, meeting and exceeding the highest API engine oil standards. It is also suitable for "Euro 4 emissions" trucks operating on lowest possible sulphur fuels as well as for many passenger car engines.
That covers line ONE of a dozen lines of the specifications of the oil I choose to use. I won't bore LandyZoners with the rest.
I am still waiting for you to tell me not what you say LandRover recommend in my car (because you were wrong there buddy), but rather I want you to tell me (in layman's terms of course) just what disasters are going to befall me and my engine for being such a simpleton "****ing idiot" as to use the oil I've been using in every vehicle I have owned (and dozens I don't own) without a single engine failure of any sort including competition cars, and my SAAB 900 Aero Turbo 16, for example, for the past 25 years. What harm will be done? You tell me - because you are THE BIG EXPERT.
On the other hand, Put up, or shut up I suggest.
Best Wishes,
CharlesY
yella
New Member
whoooooo hooooooo, go charlesy,m mind you i have ter agree with yer, there is a two bob garage down the road from me that wont service yer motor unless they use flushing oil and additive bollocks. its all about the freebies they get off the bloke that sells the ****e to em. as for the wrong viscosity of oil affecting the performance of an engine. well this is only half true, s in if i were to use cooking oil or hydraulic oil instead but as for using 15w40 instead of 5w 40, yer talkin ****e mate
Exactly ..... and if it comes to the bit, MY record for driving my car off my launch pad to where I want to go and bringing it home again in one piece (using Ovoline Tractor Universal Oil in my engine) is a whole lot better than NASA's record for getting their vehicles either up in the first place or back down again.
So There.
CharlesY
an reckon regas man is about 16 or 17 and just started on his apprenticship. he sounds just like anthony, who is forever telling me i can't do this or i can't do that. then he sits open jawed as i do it.
he then sez " they told me yer couldn't do that because of blah blah blah"
he then sez " they told me yer couldn't do that because of blah blah blah"
90man
New Member
I do my best .... and a few LandyZoners have had good fixes from me.
That's what it is all about - us old guys passing on a a bit of experience.
That's a whole lot better than some know-all whipper-snapper selling snake-oil and additives for it.
You should see some of the engine abuse that goes on around here, and all on that Ovoline Tractor Universal! One of the air cooled generators ran day and night 24/7 for ten days on full load after a storm took down 14 power poles. The exhaust glowed dull red in the dark all night. It looked better in daylight because it just looked black! I actually changed the oil after that but really, what for?
And as for FARMERS! Well, those guys can abuse an engine!
Oil companies make the oil the farmers use (a) the very best of stuff, and (b) very inexpensive so the farmers will actually use some of it occasionally. At under £1 a litre they don't grudge it so much.
By and large all oil prices for car engines are a total rip-off.
Check the margins on some of those oils .... and we are talking factors here, not percentages.
CharlesY
You are right, retail prices for oil suck. My friend had a service done at LR dealer and paid £70 for a sump full, but you can buy oil straight from the oil company if you want to. I couldn't remember where you get you ovoline from but if it's not from ovoline you should get in touch with them and try and open an account. They will deliver it to your door maybe if you order over a certain amount.
Patman1200
Active Member
I like my snake oil in with my dirt cheap Wilkinson own brand £7.50 for 5 litres TD oil.
Family and me were stooooook in LegoLand trying to get out at the same time as every other dumbo on Saturday (lots of hidden landys in the mini world and monster truck day) As you all know the old 2.5 TD turbo has a habit of collecting oil in the turbo. So there we were stuck for a good hour with the engine running crawling to the exit. Obviously there was no need to get the revs up to turbo speed. So we hit the open road and I floor it to get around the roundabout when the engine revs hit max on their own 'cos the turbo has just ingested it's own oil supply and we leave a foooooookin' huge cloud of black and white smoke behind us. Must have scared lots of people 'cos I didn't see any other cars behind me for another 2 miles!
Engine got us home ok. So the snake oil worked for me........
Family and me were stooooook in LegoLand trying to get out at the same time as every other dumbo on Saturday (lots of hidden landys in the mini world and monster truck day) As you all know the old 2.5 TD turbo has a habit of collecting oil in the turbo. So there we were stuck for a good hour with the engine running crawling to the exit. Obviously there was no need to get the revs up to turbo speed. So we hit the open road and I floor it to get around the roundabout when the engine revs hit max on their own 'cos the turbo has just ingested it's own oil supply and we leave a foooooookin' huge cloud of black and white smoke behind us. Must have scared lots of people 'cos I didn't see any other cars behind me for another 2 miles!
Engine got us home ok. So the snake oil worked for me........
discool
Well-Known Member
I have used ZX1 in my 3.5i RR which I owned 18 years ago it cost me £17 and looked like water it only took 5 sec to pour into the engine outside the shop, I was not impressed.. I did 12 miles to return home (the suff wasn't freely avalable back in 1988) and my tick over was now sitting at 1000 rpm I was now impressed and I had to adjust the tickover back to the 600 or so RPM
I still use ZX1 in my 3.9 Disco engine but now the engine management took care of the tickover so I saw no change when I first used it.
You can get ZX1 from Halfords also go to their webb site and that tells u all about the stuf how it works and the race cars and bikes that use it.
There's some engine treatment stuf I found in a pound shop by JML full of "space technology it's fortified with X-1R" wow!.. and it looks the same not thick like Winns or STP so I got some for my other car.
Remember that ZX1 lasts for 25,000 miles the others Winns etc only till you change the engine oil or around 6,000mls.
Regards
I still use ZX1 in my 3.9 Disco engine but now the engine management took care of the tickover so I saw no change when I first used it.
You can get ZX1 from Halfords also go to their webb site and that tells u all about the stuf how it works and the race cars and bikes that use it.
There's some engine treatment stuf I found in a pound shop by JML full of "space technology it's fortified with X-1R" wow!.. and it looks the same not thick like Winns or STP so I got some for my other car.
Remember that ZX1 lasts for 25,000 miles the others Winns etc only till you change the engine oil or around 6,000mls.
Regards
after intensive internet searchin i found this..
We Sell the World’s Best Auto Engine Oil Additives UK…
they claim to have a worn engine warranty which they say is for the life time of the engine, whatever that means.
they say that so long as you start using the stuff before you reach 100,000 miles you will be covered for any engine failure due to worn parts so long as you own the vehicle.
surprisingly it also covers head gasket failure wwhich would be good noos fer the gaylanders...
"A motor oil this powerful its makers can boast about giving YOU a *Free Lifetime Engine Warranty* which covers all the internal parts of your new or old engine, including the head gasket! ... "
now either thats remarkable stuff or i'm right in thinking that modern engines with modern oils just don't wear the same as engines used to . so they can make that claim with the knowledge that they will be unlikey to fork out for many engines. then again they might just replace the affected part and leave you with a huge bill for all the other bits needed stuff
We Sell the World’s Best Auto Engine Oil Additives UK…
they claim to have a worn engine warranty which they say is for the life time of the engine, whatever that means.
they say that so long as you start using the stuff before you reach 100,000 miles you will be covered for any engine failure due to worn parts so long as you own the vehicle.
surprisingly it also covers head gasket failure wwhich would be good noos fer the gaylanders...
"A motor oil this powerful its makers can boast about giving YOU a *Free Lifetime Engine Warranty* which covers all the internal parts of your new or old engine, including the head gasket! ... "
now either thats remarkable stuff or i'm right in thinking that modern engines with modern oils just don't wear the same as engines used to . so they can make that claim with the knowledge that they will be unlikey to fork out for many engines. then again they might just replace the affected part and leave you with a huge bill for all the other bits needed stuff
