It says it comes with "1 unlock code" - don't like the sound of that! What's the meaning of that? Do I have to pay some sort of repeat fee each time I use it?
I'd much sooner find someone locally who has one or some equivalent and just bung them 50 quid for their trouble, tbh.

1 unlock code means it will be unlocked for one modell of LR in your case Defender and it will work on it for ever, and not only on your's on all Defenders
 
1 unlock code means it wll be unlocked for one modell of LR in your case Defender and it will work on it for ever, and not only on your's on all Defenders

Thanks for the clarification.
I've been in touch with two other local 'auto-electrical' people and they don't recommend these hand-held devices; they say they typically only do half the job and if they come out 'on site' with one then 9 times out of 10 they have to go back to base, pick up a laptop, come back again, blah, blah, "it's a lot simpler just to bring the vehicle down to us and we'll put it on our large analyser and do all the checks in one go."
That's what I've been told; I'm only reporting back what they've said.
Any observations, guys?
 
BOLL*X... maybe they meant cheap generic OBD2 readers not dedicated tool like the hawkeye is(i have it and i'm speaking from my own experience)... it's the handheld variant of the main dealer's testbook T4 made by the same manufacturer it gives you the description of the fault code not just some P.... generic code ... if you want one with a laptop there's LYNX at the same price which is the same proocol and made also by omitec(manufaturer of T4) ...and IMO if that garage doesnt have a testbook T4 or an Autologic service tool theyrs ''large analiser" is useless on a Td5
 
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BOLL*X... maybe they meant cheap generic OBD2 readers not dedicated tool like the hawkeye is(i have it and i'm speaking from my own experience)... it's the handheld variant of the main dealer's testbook T4 made by the same manufacturer it gives you the description of the fault code not just some P.... generic code ... if you want one with a laptop there's LYNX at the same price which is the same proocol and made also by omitec(manufaturer of T4) ...and IMO if that garage doesnt have a testbook T4 or an Autologic service tool theyrs ''large analiser" is useless on a Td5

Yes, probably they were thinking of the cheapo ones you see for sale. Anyway, if I'm forced to have it taken to them, I'll make sure they've got the T4 or Autologic first. Many thanks for the tip.
In the mean time, I still have a few remaining checks I can perform here with a multimeter. The forecast for tomorrow is favourable, thankfully!
 
Just thinking out loud here, but if the ECU hasn't failed, then something must be inhibiting the ECU from firing the injectors. This might be a failed component such as a sensor sending an inhibit signal to the ECU, or another type of failure where the component concerned is NOT sending an expected signal to the ECU.
OR, if none of the above, some simple sub-circuit power failure due to a broken wire, corroded terminal or such like...
OR, it could be something CORRECTLY sending an inhibit signal to the ECU, like some sort of fault warning or imobiliser.
 
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What is the immobiliser LED in the speedo doing? Is it flashing, on permanently, or not on at all?
If it is off then there is no immobiliser active nor is the alarm set.
Flashing means immobiliser is active.
Steady on means the alarm and immobiliser are set.

If the immobiliser is not active then the prime candidate would be the crank position sensor on the top of the bell housing.
The cables can come loose from their clips and dangle down on to the bellhousing.Also the connector gets covered in crap and may just need cleaning..
Be careful if you remove the sensor as it will be shimmed and is very delicate. Make sure the shims go back exactly as they come out or the sensor can contact the flywheel.
 
What is the immobiliser LED in the speedo doing? Is it flashing, on permanently, or not on at all?
If it is off then there is no immobiliser active nor is the alarm set.
Flashing means immobiliser is active.
Steady on means the alarm and immobiliser are set.

If the immobiliser is not active then the prime candidate would be the crank position sensor on the top of the bell housing.
The cables can come loose from their clips and dangle down on to the bellhousing.Also the connector gets covered in crap and may just need cleaning..
Be careful if you remove the sensor as it will be shimmed and is very delicate. Make sure the shims go back exactly as they come out or the sensor can contact the flywheel.

Well that light is certainly doing something. I did notice it earlier; can't recall what it was doing in detail, though. I'll check it out tomorrow - along with the crank sensor. If it's on top of the bell housing, do you have to take a floor panel up to get at it? What is its typical failure mode, do you know?
 
Brief update: I've just been speaking to some wallah at one of these auto-electrical testing places who's under the distinct impression that the TD5 is the "Transit engine" and he's gone off to see if his code reader is compatible with that. I've not heard this before, tbh. Is this engine used in Transits? cheers. I don't want him coming over here if his reader isn't compatible.


The Tran**** engine is in the last Defenders, replacing the superior TD5
 
Thanks for the clarification.
I've been in touch with two other local 'auto-electrical' people and they don't recommend these hand-held devices; they say they typically only do half the job and if they come out 'on site' with one then 9 times out of 10 they have to go back to base, pick up a laptop, come back again, blah, blah, "it's a lot simpler just to bring the vehicle down to us and we'll put it on our large analyser and do all the checks in one go."
That's what I've been told; I'm only reporting back what they've said.
Any observations, guys?


The Hawkeye is basically a shrunk professional one which sells codes per model to make up the money.
 
One real good bit of advice.

Buy a Nanocom or Hawkeye

A very important tool for a TD5
 
One real good bit of advice.

Buy a Nanocom or Hawkeye

A very important tool for a TD5

I dunno. I was brought up on carbs and points. I don't believe computers belong in cars. I'm sorely tempted to flog the td5 once it's going again and go back to a Series. At least I know where I am with one of those; there's nothing I can't fix - and I love 'em!
 
I dunno. I was brought up on carbs and points. I don't believe computers belong in cars. I'm sorely tempted to flog the td5 once it's going again and go back to a Series. At least I know where I am with one of those; there's nothing I can't fix - and I love 'em!

yeah, you bought the wrong thing then.

300tdi was the last of the no electrickery (though some later ones do have a bit)
 
yeah, you bought the wrong thing then.

300tdi was the last of the no electrickery (though some later ones do have a bit)

It's daft, 'cos I do a lot of electronic fault tracing for a living and have done for over 35 years, but I have to have it all out in front of me on PCBs. When a line I'm trying to trace disappears into a loom to emerge I know not where, then I'm buggered.
 
You can buy a cheap wire tracer that puts a signal on the wire in question and then you use a handheld scanner to track where the signal runs. Its good for finding breaks or finding where a certain wire emerges from a bundled loom.
 
I dunno. I was brought up on carbs and points. I don't believe computers belong in cars. I'm sorely tempted to flog the td5 once it's going again and go back to a Series. At least I know where I am with one of those; there's nothing I can't fix - and I love 'em!


Points, horrible things, carbs a nightmare.

Spark ignition engines engine management systems are usually pretty good, most problems are due to sensors ageing, crank sensors can stop an engine.

A code reader is the most usefull thing you can have
 

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