sierrafery
Well-Known Member
1 unlock code means it will be unlocked for one modell of LR in your case Defender and it will work on it for ever, and not only on your's on all Defenders
1 unlock code means it will be unlocked for one modell of LR in your case Defender and it will work on it for ever, and not only on your's on all Defenders
Landlover99
Active Member
Thanks for the clarification.
I've been in touch with two other local 'auto-electrical' people and they don't recommend these hand-held devices; they say they typically only do half the job and if they come out 'on site' with one then 9 times out of 10 they have to go back to base, pick up a laptop, come back again, blah, blah, "it's a lot simpler just to bring the vehicle down to us and we'll put it on our large analyser and do all the checks in one go."
That's what I've been told; I'm only reporting back what they've said.
Any observations, guys?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
BOLL*X... maybe they meant cheap generic OBD2 readers not dedicated tool like the hawkeye is(i have it and i'm speaking from my own experience)... it's the handheld variant of the main dealer's testbook T4 made by the same manufacturer it gives you the description of the fault code not just some P.... generic code ... if you want one with a laptop there's LYNX at the same price which is the same proocol and made also by omitec(manufaturer of T4) ...and IMO if that garage doesnt have a testbook T4 or an Autologic service tool theyrs ''large analiser" is useless on a Td5
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Landlover99
Active Member
Yes, probably they were thinking of the cheapo ones you see for sale. Anyway, if I'm forced to have it taken to them, I'll make sure they've got the T4 or Autologic first. Many thanks for the tip.
In the mean time, I still have a few remaining checks I can perform here with a multimeter. The forecast for tomorrow is favourable, thankfully!
Landlover99
Active Member
Just thinking out loud here, but if the ECU hasn't failed, then something must be inhibiting the ECU from firing the injectors. This might be a failed component such as a sensor sending an inhibit signal to the ECU, or another type of failure where the component concerned is NOT sending an expected signal to the ECU.
OR, if none of the above, some simple sub-circuit power failure due to a broken wire, corroded terminal or such like...
OR, it could be something CORRECTLY sending an inhibit signal to the ECU, like some sort of fault warning or imobiliser.
OR, if none of the above, some simple sub-circuit power failure due to a broken wire, corroded terminal or such like...
OR, it could be something CORRECTLY sending an inhibit signal to the ECU, like some sort of fault warning or imobiliser.
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Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
What is the immobiliser LED in the speedo doing? Is it flashing, on permanently, or not on at all?
If it is off then there is no immobiliser active nor is the alarm set.
Flashing means immobiliser is active.
Steady on means the alarm and immobiliser are set.
If the immobiliser is not active then the prime candidate would be the crank position sensor on the top of the bell housing.
The cables can come loose from their clips and dangle down on to the bellhousing.Also the connector gets covered in crap and may just need cleaning..
Be careful if you remove the sensor as it will be shimmed and is very delicate. Make sure the shims go back exactly as they come out or the sensor can contact the flywheel.
If it is off then there is no immobiliser active nor is the alarm set.
Flashing means immobiliser is active.
Steady on means the alarm and immobiliser are set.
If the immobiliser is not active then the prime candidate would be the crank position sensor on the top of the bell housing.
The cables can come loose from their clips and dangle down on to the bellhousing.Also the connector gets covered in crap and may just need cleaning..
Be careful if you remove the sensor as it will be shimmed and is very delicate. Make sure the shims go back exactly as they come out or the sensor can contact the flywheel.
Landlover99
Active Member
Well that light is certainly doing something. I did notice it earlier; can't recall what it was doing in detail, though. I'll check it out tomorrow - along with the crank sensor. If it's on top of the bell housing, do you have to take a floor panel up to get at it? What is its typical failure mode, do you know?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
immobilised = no cranking so as long as it cranks it's not immobilised
Landlover99
Active Member
MJI
Well-Known Member
MJI
Well-Known Member
The Hawkeye is basically a shrunk professional one which sells codes per model to make up the money.
Landlover99
Active Member
Landlover99
Active Member
yeah, you bought the wrong thing then.
300tdi was the last of the no electrickery (though some later ones do have a bit)
Landlover99
Active Member
It's daft, 'cos I do a lot of electronic fault tracing for a living and have done for over 35 years, but I have to have it all out in front of me on PCBs. When a line I'm trying to trace disappears into a loom to emerge I know not where, then I'm buggered.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
download disc 2 land rover rave technical system the diagrams for 2002 modell are the same like for 2003 also you can read about your engine there
Landlover99
Active Member
download disc 2 land rover rave technical system the diagrams for 2002 modell are the same like for 2003 also you can read about your engine there
On it's way, thanks! I might learn a thing or two...
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
You can buy a cheap wire tracer that puts a signal on the wire in question and then you use a handheld scanner to track where the signal runs. Its good for finding breaks or finding where a certain wire emerges from a bundled loom.
MJI
Well-Known Member
Points, horrible things, carbs a nightmare.
Spark ignition engines engine management systems are usually pretty good, most problems are due to sensors ageing, crank sensors can stop an engine.
A code reader is the most usefull thing you can have
