For a long time now I have had to press the remote button to be able to start my car as engine disabled always appears when I turn ignition on whilst not finding that a problem last night the fob did not work leaving me stranded does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this and a possible cure. Its a P38 diesel and I have tried putting the codes in etc but no joy also my spare key does not work despite putting new batteries in so am unable to carry spare in case of problems any help on either problem would be appreciated.Look forward to hearing from someone with solutions
j the range
New Member
i had same problem i had to get a new key and fob. i would keep trying the eka
Thanks for reply is what you are saying because the spare does not work if I could find out why it says engine disabled I would not have a problem because I would be able to get into car and start it but because I have to press remote to start it I get stranded does anyone know how to cure that fault
Big Naughty
New Member
I had the same problem every time I stopped outside my Son's house. My thought was that there was some electronic interference in the viscinity of his house. It also happened in a local shopping centre once (I never went there again just in case!).
I used to have to enter the code in the drivers door lock all the time (like a safe cracker!) It was very strange!
In the end I just sold the damn thing. There are lots of answers on this via "google", but I never found out why it happened to mine. Good look though. I would be interested in what answers you get back because I am thinking about getting another P38.
PS - It happens on my Discovery sometimes. I replaced the connector on the starter solenoid and it seamed to stop. Probably not much help to you though.
BN
I used to have to enter the code in the drivers door lock all the time (like a safe cracker!) It was very strange!
In the end I just sold the damn thing. There are lots of answers on this via "google", but I never found out why it happened to mine. Good look though. I would be interested in what answers you get back because I am thinking about getting another P38.
PS - It happens on my Discovery sometimes. I replaced the connector on the starter solenoid and it seamed to stop. Probably not much help to you though.
BN
rasheed
Well-Known Member
So you are physically unlocking the door with a key to get in and then pressing the button to enable the engine again before starting? Did I get that right? Do the doors not unlock with the remote? Because if it did that it would simultaneously enable the engine me thinks. If not you can try resync like Gav said or else get the key reprogrammed as my dealer says..
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Thanks again for the replys even if I open the car with remote I always still have to press remote to start car as engine disabled always appears what I am trying to find out is why engine disabled always appears and how I can clear it permananty then I would not have a problem have tried all of the codes and resyncing key but I still have the problem has anyone any ideas
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Interesting to know of someone that can "Reprogramme" a P38 key.
he must be unique, cos apart from HUF no one else can
he must be unique, cos apart from HUF no one else can
Big Naughty
New Member
What happened with mine was that unlocking with the remote didn't do anything, it just unlocked the doors. The engine was still "immobilised".
I used to have to put the key into the drivers door lock, and enter the unlock code by turning the key right the left until the code was entered. So if your code is 1234, it was right 1 turn (click), then left 2 turns (clicks), right 3 turns, and finally left 4 turns. This procedure reset the immobilisation of the engine and the doors were open.
I found a US Landrover site with the procedure on. I have just tried to search again for the link but I cant see it on google anymore. It might be on the RAVE cds though. They are on here if you type RAVE in the search.
BN
rasheed
Well-Known Member
The procedure's also in the owner's manual. You got it right except before you enter the code you must turn the key left 4 times. This is to tell the system that you actually are about to enter the code. So using your code of 1234 you first do 4L, then 1R, 2L, 3R, 4L and finally 1R unlocks the doors. Usually the turn signals will flash at different times and the alarm horn will give short beeps. The way to know if it worked is that when you do the final right twist to unlock, all 4 door locks should pop up.
Big Naughty
New Member
Ah yes I remember now. I guess the question still is though, why does it immobilise in the firtst place. Is it something internal or external to the vehicle?
BN
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I thought the engine always immobilised when the car is left, locked or unlocked. The question therefore is why does it not mobilise from the fob when the doors unlock? At a complete guess, it could be something to do with the drivers door locking mechanism or the outstation failing the signal to the BECM that the door has unlocked.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
The security system consists of the key(s) programmed with their unique code, RF transmitter which sends the keyfob code to the BECM,, the BECM which has the unique keyfob code and unique engine ECU code in the case of diesel models, the engine ECU which has a unique code on diesel engines, a transponder on the ignition switch assembly which also prompts the keyfob to transmit it's code when the key is inserted. Additionally there are various sensors including internal movement detection and switches on doors and bonnet to detect opening and the microswitch on the drivers door lock assembly (Gav's favourite) for entry of the EKA and sensing when the door is unlocked/locked.
Intermittent immobilisation is usually caused by spurious signals from exterior sources...plenty about that on the forum, which is usually cleared by the EKA procedure. It can also be caused by the code in the BECM becoming corrupt and the BECM not recognising the "Rolling Code" sent by the keyfob, this is usually cleared by unlocking the BECM and clearing the Armed/lockout status and clearing the RF memory buffer. Another cause can be repeatedly pressing the fob buttons whilst away from the car.
Then there is a faulty fob (Rare) and engine ECU losing it's code which will cause immobilisation..more prevelant on diesel engined models.
If the system has gone down hard, the EKA will not work and the BECM played it safe ....armed & locked itself out then it's either a trip to the Stealer for a new BECM or one of the independants for the BECM to be unlocked and reset.
I am not at a loss on the P38 system, as others have written on here and I hope that this clarifies the systems operation without going into too much jargon. There are plenty of posts on here covering the topic which repeatedly crops up with air suspension faults, overheating and water loss etc. etc.
Are people really sifting through the related posts on the subject???
Methinks they just put up a new post without doing the research and probably finding the answers or enlightenment.
Intermittent immobilisation is usually caused by spurious signals from exterior sources...plenty about that on the forum, which is usually cleared by the EKA procedure. It can also be caused by the code in the BECM becoming corrupt and the BECM not recognising the "Rolling Code" sent by the keyfob, this is usually cleared by unlocking the BECM and clearing the Armed/lockout status and clearing the RF memory buffer. Another cause can be repeatedly pressing the fob buttons whilst away from the car.
Then there is a faulty fob (Rare) and engine ECU losing it's code which will cause immobilisation..more prevelant on diesel engined models.
If the system has gone down hard, the EKA will not work and the BECM played it safe ....armed & locked itself out then it's either a trip to the Stealer for a new BECM or one of the independants for the BECM to be unlocked and reset.
I am not at a loss on the P38 system, as others have written on here and I hope that this clarifies the systems operation without going into too much jargon. There are plenty of posts on here covering the topic which repeatedly crops up with air suspension faults, overheating and water loss etc. etc.
Are people really sifting through the related posts on the subject???
Methinks they just put up a new post without doing the research and probably finding the answers or enlightenment.
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
And the other problem is that owners take little notice of advice about having decent battery voltage,all panels closed etc,etc - when trying to input an EKA code.Even garages dont listen,I've done loads where the garages dont listen,so I just go and take money off them because they cant be bothered or dont understand.Sometimes if its a later car its just quicker to input the EKA with Testbook,but I've never been beaten by one yet - there is always a reason why it wont work.(Unless all the smoke has escaped from the BECM.)
Used to be a favourite for the valeters to steam the carpets - that makes a real mess of them.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Correct 8inaV........Nice clean car which doesn't work or go anywhere!!
Power and logic boards... operating at low voltage and water don't get on well together.
Just like dropping your mobile phone down the khazi !!!!
Power and logic boards... operating at low voltage and water don't get on well together.
Just like dropping your mobile phone down the khazi !!!!
