5

52 classic

Well-Known Member
I told 'The Duchess' (our P38) that our recent changes were for the best "Let the Freelander do the hard work," I said "You can just enjoy the new level of TLC we're giving you." Didn't work. In typically petulant fashion the old girl is now stuck on the drive, not going anywhere.

I returned to the car one day last week to find the battery flat, very flat, not even a glimmer from the interior lights. I charged the battery for about 8 hours and connected jump leads from the FL, inserted the key and we have 'beep beep' noise with 'Engine disabled' on the screen Then alternating with 'press remote' - which I did - key in and key out. The red light on the remote activates when the button is pressed but it no longer locks or unlocks the door and makes no difference to the display or the starting sequence.

Strangely, when the key is removed it changes to 'ignition key in' for a few seconds. Jumped - Battery to starter solenoid the engine turns over but won't start.

So where should I begin? Frankly I'm scared of the legend of the 'superlocking gremlin' most of all!
I have the EKA code (somewhere) so should I try that procedure first? Then there's the Tech route, buying one of those unlocking devices or even a Nanocom if either would help. Maybe there's something simpler you can suggest.

I've said, we're committed to keeping the car so I'll do what's necessary. BTW I think I found the reason for the battery drain to be a stuck fuel flap actuator. With that removed she at least holds charge. Engine is the 2.5 diesel unit.

All help and ideas gratefully received.
 
EKA code needs entered me thinks.

Mine used to do the same when the battery went flat, if you have a nanocom its best to turn it off.
 
The "Key in ignition" message with the key out is a sticky flap where the key goes in, that needs sorting first. Contact cleaner works well but NOT WD40.
Then you may be able to do a lock/unlock cycle with the FOB which may clear the message. If not let us know and we can move on.
The sticking key in function will also flatten the battery.
Your battery is now probably knackered.
 
Thanks Datatek. I had noticed that the key in and out movement has been different for a couple of weeks now, e.g. no firm 'click' when the key is withdrawn. I'll grab some contact cleaner tomorrow and try out. You're right that it is not asking for EKA. TBH If I can get away with this for nothing more than a new battery I'd be delighted.

Henry, I saw a car identical to yours parked up at Mathewsons when the new series of Bangers & Cash started. They seem to have a name for selling P38s. Hope I'm wrong.
 
Sort the key flap as above ^^^
Maybe try the key lock/unlock pressing corresponding buttons while using the key in the door lock to sync it.

They don't like to wake up with battery power then relies the bonnets open:).
I dont think you are at the stage of needing a nanocom yet as this is normal security and can be overcome with correct procedure.

What year is the P38 cos it makes a diff apparently?

J
 
Thanks Marjon, I'd forgotten about the 'bonnet open' thing. I'll try putting it on charge with the bonnet closed and miss out the jump leads.
Car is 2001 regd but most bits seem to be 2000.
 
52 classic said:
Thanks Datatek. I had noticed that the key in and out movement has been different for a couple of weeks now, e.g. no firm 'click' when the key is withdrawn. I'll grab some contact cleaner tomorrow and try out. You're right that it is not asking for EKA. TBH If I can get away with this for nothing more than a new battery I'd be delighted.

Henry, I saw a car identical to yours parked up at Mathewsons when the new series of Bangers & Cash started. They seem to have a name for selling P38s. Hope I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
New battery, biggest that will fit, MF31-1000 from Battery Megastore on line, less than £100 delivered. Whatever new battery you get, put it on charge for 24 hours before fitting it.
 
"Sticky-Flaps" are never a good thing. ;)
A squirt of contact cleaner and a puff of air perhaps?
Locking unlocking with the key while pushing the appropriate button on the fob is often all it takes.
My MY2000 doesn't always seem to resync the fob via the coil in the steering lock, but so far I have avoided being unable to get past any immobilisation.
Good Luck!
 
That's an interesting idea Dan. Battery ordered, arrives Thursday. Under a oner indeed - £99.31. In work tomorrow but sounds like a Saturday morning job to me. Will keep you posted.
 
Thanks Pete & Dan. In ignition that doesn't work but will try the door. The good news is that the new battery, MF 31-1000 per Datatek's recommendation, has just arrived and will go on charge now. Also obtained some contact cleaner and 'canned air.' Weather rough here at present so work scheduled for Saturday morning. All appropriate bits crossed.
 
New battery arrived - wonderful service! Fitted this morning but still no go. The old battery still had power in it after a week which tends to indicate that the cause of the drain has been rectified. Cleaned the key slot with switch cleaner and canned air. all sorts of crud came out of it and it and now appears to be more reliable insofar as I now get a message 'key in ignition' when the key is inserted and the display goes off about a second after the key is removed. However, when the key is moved to the start position the message is still 'engine disabled press remote' although pressing remote has no effect.
I reinstated key number 2 with a new battery and on both keys the LED flashes when buttons are pressed. At the doors I have tried to input the EKA code although it is suggested that on post '97 cars there is 'friendly synchronisation.'
Pressing the buttons whilst performing the lock/unlock manually obviously operates all doors and tailgate but also causes the indicators to flash but no chirp (Maybe that's switched off, don't remember ever hearing it) as a matter of fact, the windows can be reset and have remained so during today's exercise

When the ignition is on the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for several seconds and when the battery is flashed to the solenoid it turns over but doesn't start.

So........ My friends, we are out of ideas. Plan is to walk away from it for today and have a think.
 
Are the interior carpets dry?
Might sound a funny question:)
If its not asking for EKA why try it?
You need to get keys synced.

52 classic said:
When the ignition is on the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for several seconds and when the battery is flashed to the solenoid it turns over but doesn't start
Click to expand...

Believe if you have engine disable you wont get spark/injection or fuel (the ecus knows you know:)) think it depends on year but not sure.

Leave it for a while and try sync again do it slow and positive turns and button push dont rush.

J
 
On my P38 2000 4.6Ltr Thor version car you get no cranking and "Engine Disabled" on the console display when the key is out of sync too.
My understanding (limited) from reading the handbook is that:
Re-Syncing the key fixes it. Engine disabled message is because of Passive Immobilisation (usually).
Inserting the key in the ignition "should" re-sync the key, but this automatic re-sync is prevented if the vehicles alarm is already armed, and the only way to re-sync is either with a Nanocom or by entering a valid EKA code.

It might be just my bad luck but usually when I get one key working the other ceases to work and I have to clear RF memory with my Nanocom to get both to be recognised and fully working.
Of course with a Nanocom you can turn immobilisation functions off. :)

Just in Case you don't have it... here is the EKA process.
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times.
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each keyturn AND back to vertical (and no further). The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use. The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen. If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.
 
Last edited:
Sorry Dan should have included and/or "cranking" in my post.

To @52classic does the central locking work on the button?

J
 
52 classic said:
New battery arrived - wonderful service! Fitted this morning but still no go. The old battery still had power in it after a week which tends to indicate that the cause of the drain has been rectified. Cleaned the key slot with switch cleaner and canned air. all sorts of crud came out of it and it and now appears to be more reliable insofar as I now get a message 'key in ignition' when the key is inserted and the display goes off about a second after the key is removed. However, when the key is moved to the start position the message is still 'engine disabled press remote' although pressing remote has no effect.
I reinstated key number 2 with a new battery and on both keys the LED flashes when buttons are pressed. At the doors I have tried to input the EKA code although it is suggested that on post '97 cars there is 'friendly synchronisation.'
Pressing the buttons whilst performing the lock/unlock manually obviously operates all doors and tailgate but also causes the indicators to flash but no chirp (Maybe that's switched off, don't remember ever hearing it) as a matter of fact, the windows can be reset and have remained so during today's exercise

When the ignition is on the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for several seconds and when the battery is flashed to the solenoid it turns over but doesn't start.

So........ My friends, we are out of ideas. Plan is to walk away from it for today and have a think.
Click to expand...
As long as you have the "Engine Disabled" message, it will not start. Forget EKA code, that is not being called for. You have 2 or more problems. It's possible due to the flat battery that the mobilisation code in the BECM has been scrambled, the only answer to that is diagnostics to write the code back.
The FOB's may have lost sync, have a look a Mozz's FOB sync guide in the tech archive.
Did you fully charge the new battery before fitting?
 
Surprising turn of events...... Stopped for a cuppa, a think and to make my last post. Returned to the car - which was unlocked. inserted key and message 'alarm fault' but went on to ign on and to start position. It started right away!
Ran fine. Repeated the exercise several times and reset the sunroof and the windows. All messages extinguished upon turning off & removing key. Restarted & moved it to a better position on the driveway if I need to work on it again.
So far, so good. Switched off, tried the locking with the fob, didn't work with either key. Locked manually, all doors & tailgate fine Pressed fob buttons whilst manually actuating. Attempted restart and we're back to square one!
'Engine disabled'
Suggestion about the carpets is a good one. Passenger side footwell got damp on one occasion - sent car off for a windscreen reseal - taken no chances since, it has a topper over it every night. I thought the BECM is out of harm's way under driver's seat. No damp there. Is there any sensitive stuff in passenger footwell?
Thanks for you info Dan. If I can't restart it again. looks like I'll be buying a Nano. Marjon No, the central locking doesn't work on the buttons but does work on the key. prior to the fault though C/l was fine on the buttons.
I'll keep trying and keep reporting
 
52 classic said:
Surprising turn of events...... Stopped for a cuppa, a think and to make my last post. Returned to the car - which was unlocked. inserted key and message 'alarm fault' but went on to ign on and to start position. It started right away!
Ran fine. Repeated the exercise several times and reset the sunroof and the windows. All messages extinguished upon turning off & removing key. Restarted & moved it to a better position on the driveway if I need to work on it again.
So far, so good. Switched off, tried the locking with the fob, didn't work with either key. Locked manually, all doors & tailgate fine Pressed fob buttons whilst manually actuating. Attempted restart and we're back to square one!
'Engine disabled'
Suggestion about the carpets is a good one. Passenger side footwell got damp on one occasion - sent car off for a windscreen reseal - taken no chances since, it has a topper over it every night. I thought the BECM is out of harm's way under driver's seat. No damp there. Is there any sensitive stuff in passenger footwell?
Thanks for you info Dan. If I can't restart it again. looks like I'll be buying a Nano. Marjon No, the central locking doesn't work on the buttons but does work on the key. prior to the fault though C/l was fine on the buttons.
I'll keep trying and keep reporting
Click to expand...
It really sounds as though the FOB's are out of sync.
Key in door, turn to unlock, press and hold the unlock button for 5 seconds, turn to lock and hold the lock button for 5 seconds. If that doesn't work try reversing the order.
 
Thanks Datatek. Yes, new battery arrived yesterday and has been on charge for at least 24 hours before fitting, it is the one you recommended - lovely looking thing! For that brief interlude of starting just now it worked with either key, no problem. I take that to mean that the keys are capable of synching with BECM? One thing I haven't mentioned is that when trying to start I can hear a relay click from O/S/F under bonnet. IGN lights don't dim or anything.
Looking on bright side, display illuminates when key inserted and goes off when key removed. Good starting point to 'fix my flaps' then!
Also checked if the carpets are dry. They are, although the inside is generally slightly dampish due to lack of use lately.
 
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