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Hi Guys, I just got my first Range Rover, it's petrol Vogue automatic 2001 4554cc. I know nothing about them and never even been in one before, a friend of mine swaped me it for a BMW last night. It has been stood for around 2 years in a barn. it has a couple of issues that I am hoping you experienced owners can help me with please...

1. open drivers door - the dash says "sunroof open" - but it's closed.
2. Ignition on - dash says "Transfer Neutral (3 beeps)" Even if it's in park or Neutral.
3. Ignition on - Dash says " all windows and sunroof not set " (I have searched the net and all advice says do the reset thing, windows down then up, but my problem is none of the windows move or the sunroof either.
3. Radio needs code

I have checked all the fuses both under the bonnet and under the drivers seat, engine starts and runs fine first time, battery are loads of power, I have also taken out the window switch console and checked all the solder joints and all look fine and all the switches seem to work, the green led also powers up in the console so I assume there is power there.
I also noticed that when I have the ignition on and move the the automatic gear lever anywhere from "N" to "P" the wing mirrors try to move.
Engine drives great, just mirrors, windows and sunroof don't work.

I have read that the Neutral error might be a dirty connection on the neutral box, but where is the connector located ?

Thanks in Advance Guys
 
I have tested the batt and the output and it's fine, so what would be the cure ?

I have tested at the connector block to the window switch console, and I have a feed at 10v and other pins showing 5v, what I don't know is what pins do what, and what should they read ?
 
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also found the sunroof was open a few mm, so popped the interior light and wound it back down, that sorted the "Sunroof Open" fault. must have been open 2 years, lol
 
Hi Guys, I just got my first Range Rover, it's petrol Vogue automatic 2001 4554cc. I know nothing about them and never even been in one before, a friend of mine swaped me it for a BMW last night. It has been stood for around 2 years in a barn. it has a couple of issues that I am hoping you experienced owners can help me with please...

You're going to be here a while......
 
your switch pack has failed common fault, replace with a working one & all will be good;)oh & :welcome:
 
your switch pack has failed common fault, replace with a working one & all will be good;)oh & :welcome:

Bugger....I was going to come in all 'Knight in shining armour' and give the exact same advice....

Cheers Will, know how to p!ss on someones fireworks don't you :D:D:D:D:D

Maybe I can offer some advice on the Transfer Nautral message....

The Transfer or drive ratios is carried out by a small electric motor mounted on the Transfer Box...on the back of this motor is a switch pack that tells the Transfer Box ECU at what position the motor is in and what drive ratio is selected.

First thing would indeed be to crawl underneath the car (supported adequaetly obviously) and check out this little fellow and the connection thereto.....

STC1971-MC.jpg


If all seems well, then check the switch logic is correct...(image attached below)

if the switch logic is correct, take out and smell the transfer box ECU...they can fry themselves!

As for the windows as Will says above, the reason you get odd volt readings is that the windows are actually controlled by the BeCM which is the brains of the car...all the windows switches do is tell the BeCM to do something!


Oh and most important.....download RAVE
 

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Is there any way of shutting the transfer box sensor off, as the gearbox works fine and drives perfect.

So are we all sure it's the switch console thing then ? and not Battery voltage ? and how do I know it's not the BeCM thing itself ?
 
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Is there any way of shutting the transfer box sensor off, as the gearbox works fine and drives perfect.

So are we all sure it's the switch console thing then ? and not Battery voltage ? and how do I know it's not the emcu thing itself ?

No way of turning the Transfer Message off aside from checking the switch logic and amybe bridging the required switches to tell it it is in High Ratio....but better to fix it properly, the P38 is a complex electrical beast, bodge one thing and the rest of the car will bite you in backside!

All Range Rover need and love a good strong battery, hence why when things seem amiss, the very first thing to do is check battery condition, voltage and Alternator charge.

Only way to see if it is the BeCM is to use Diagnostics and use the test settings on the Diagnostics to motor the windows...if they move, it is the switch pack, if they don't, start looking at the motors and wiring thereto.....BeCM would rarely fail on the Window controls, but if you have damp carpets, this can cause the BeCM to go bandy and who knows what can happen then!
 
Great thanks, I will have a play with it tomorrow, just ordered a switch pack to be on the safe side or keep as a spare anyway.
 
First stick some sort of home location in your on-screen details. There might be someone close at hand with diagnostics or spare parts lying around that might save you time and the cost of buying bits on a gut feeling.

Secondly, if it has been parked up for that long it's probably got damp a few times, even if only from condensation. I'd disconnect the battery, leave it for at least one cuppa (let the airbag circuit discharge), then start investigating electrical connections. Start with the BECM (under the driver's seat) pull each plug out, spray it with electrical cleaner, then replace it. Do this at least twice with each plug. Then under the passenger seat. Even if it doesn't clear any of your current faults it might prevent more appearing later. If you find any obvious corrosion I'd be tempted to open the relevant 'box' and check for any internal corrosion.

Oh, and welcome to Loony Zone and the wonderful world of being owned by a Rangie.
 
If it's been stood for 2 years, my thoughts would be BECM, are the carpets wet in the front footwells? The BECM may even have lost some settings, it really needs diagnostics to see what is going on.
 
On the transfer box problem, could it be that it was left in low ratio when last used and that high ratio has been selected whilst the engine was off and battery flat.

You could try putting it back in low ratio, starting up, move the stick across to high ratio remaining in neutral until the beeps stop.

It could be that simple.
 
Just got to workshop, first thing I headed for was fuse 11 under the drivers seat. it DID have a 10a fuse in it, Funny though as I could still select gears even with it in.
Anyway I pulled it out now and the only thing different is that if I shift to neutral on the left side, the orange selector lights flash and I get an orange light on the dash with a picture of some cogs.
I am assuming that this may mean there is a fault, I also found 2 wires coming off the positive terminal from the battery and both have fuses inline, a 15amp on had blown, I have replaced it, but no idea what it was for.
 
Updated profile, cleaned all connections, fixed the radio, ordered glass for the rear 1/4, ordered switches for windows, closed the sunroof carpets are dry...

Only problem I have now is trying to select "low" range, get the yellow flashing lights telling me it's trying to change to low, but getting warning beeps and can't hear the motor doing anything at all, and it stays like this.
 
It seems to take about 15 seconds on mine to swap from high to low ratio and you do see the orange cogs on the dash whilst it is in progress. If the cogs don't go away and the beep still beeps, there must be a fault somewhere.

You can pick up guaranteed second hand ones on eBay, I got one for about £185 with a 6 month guarantee about 3 years ago - still going strong.

If it's just the motor that move between the two ratios, I guess one of the suppliers like Island 4x4 may be able to help.

Emmotts of Colne who sponsor this section will also be able to help with good second hand parts.
 

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