Hi guys, can anyone shed light on these symptons?

Yesterday the battery light came on whilst driving to work and on way home.
This morning the light was on again and eventually dash lights became very dim.
One by one, and once 3 at a time (Amigos), the dash was like a christmas tree! This after less than 2 miles from home.

Freebie (Td4 '52) went into limp mode, lost indicators, lights dimmed to zilch and was forced to pull over, motor cut out.

Ten minutes later the vehicle started and got me the 2 miles back home but the symptons were showing themselves again just as I pulled up.
Batt connections nice and tight.

Never had starting issues before and the Freebie is used most days without issue.

I tried a lower amp (65A) spare batt that I have and she fired up without probs but the batt light was still on.

Does this sound like a battery problem, alternator or is it perhaps some PITA sensor that others have experienced with these symptons... or worse maybe?

Other than the batt change this morning I haven't had a chance to look at the Freebie again as it's dark when I get home, so is a weekend jobby for investigations.

Any help appreciated.

Alternator more than likley, have you checked it's charging the battery?

would say is altenator mate possiably a diode in pack on rear gone down so wont be charging at full rate and /or not at a stable rate ??
would advise check charging rate and say run for at least 5/10 mins if show ok to check isnt dropping after running for a bit as had this and rate was fine till ran it for 2/3 mins then o/put dropped to 11 volts

Yes it does sound like the alternator, if you have a volt meter put it across the battery terminals with the engine running - you should be getting 14 volts

Thanks guys, will do some checks tomorrow.

Alternator 100 %, Get a reconditoned or new one fitted ASAP.

Andy

Yes probably the alternator. But just check the electrical connector at the top rear of the alternator (held with a spring clip) the connector is restricted by the oil cooler, this can cause the rubber cover to split allowing oil/water ingress which gives intermittent non charging/ battery warning light on due to poor electrical connections to alternator.

Dann said:

Yes probably the alternator. But just check the electrical connector at the top rear of the alternator (held with a spring clip) the connector is restricted by the oil cooler, this can cause the rubber cover to split allowing oil/water ingress which gives intermittent non charging/ battery warning light on due to poor electrical connections to alternator.

Click to expand...

Thanks again guys.

Dann, today was my 1st chance to get back to the alternator situation. There is no rubber cover, least not on my electrical connector, unless you mean the yellow concertina type seal inside the connector?
Outside of the connector there is plastic sheath encasing the two wires but nothing looks too bad re oil contamination.

What were you suggesting if there was an ingress of oil - replacing that part of the loom?

I noticed today (she fired up) that after tightening the loose batt to alternator nut I have about 11.00V across the batt. With ignition on this drops to 10.35V with the fuel pump coming in. Spinning the motor over took voltage to 9.36 just before the motor started running and then climbed to 11.00V (ish).

Also, and for the first time in my ownership, the rear window didn't want to stay up. Each time I powered it up there was a beep from the dash and then it went back down on it's own, several times.

It was when switching on the fan that it started dropping again and with the lights on it dropped further to 9.30V, amigos appeared, turned lights off, then fan off and amigos disappeared.

Would you (anybody) agree this a battery issue and NOT the alternator after all, especially when considering the rear window situation? Or is the battery issue a result of the alternator? Damn I hate electrics! :doh:

Note: After tightening the alt/batt lead connection the dash batt light was intermittent, as opposed to permanently on when the probs started. The light extinguished for several minutes but has come back on permanently. As odd as it may seem, and after the Freebie had been idling some 20 mins or so, I took a drive around the block and though the batt light was on it didn't show any of the previous symptons prior to the drained power supply last week. That's not to say I trust the Freebie yet for a drive further a field, especially in the morning when the lights are required!

Battery or Alternator?

With the engine running you should have a constant charge rate above 12v. Remove dirty old alternator and replace with a shiny new one

14.7 volts if alt working well.

I agree with mj - even if your battery is rubbish, with engine running you should have about 14.2 volts.

Thanks again guys, new shiny piece of electricity on order. Couldn't happen at a better time of year.

back windows go down for safty issue dont mess about get a new alternator

New alternator installed this morning. A pig to do on a frosty morning with Raynauds Disease but better done that not as the alternative was riding the bike in sub-zeros. I've had enough of that already and so the expense just had to be shelled out.

Thanks again guys, advise appreciated!:tea: