as many have said if you still have Keycode Lockout then you have to wait . . . and wait and wait. You're not gonna get anywhere until the lockout timeout expires (I learnt this few years ago, and next morning it worked ). 9999 is almost certainly wrong unless some helpful sod with the right tools has fiddled with BECM.

Wait . . .grab beer or two . . . . .sleep then get coffee . . .then try correct code using sequence above.
]
As Dan said, the indicators, dahs light or beeps depend on how the system has been programmed. . . .same as lock-unlock indication, which can be set for Nothing, Indicators or Horn for US peeps.

BTW all the forums have right-left confusion. Believe UK folks first.
 
as many have said if you still have Keycode Lockout then you have to wait . . . and wait and wait. You're not gonna get anywhere until the lockout timeout expires (I learnt this few years ago, and next morning it worked ). 9999 is almost certainly wrong unless some helpful sod with the right tools has fiddled with BECM.

Wait . . .grab beer or two . . . . .sleep then get coffee . . .then try correct code using sequence above.
]
As Dan said, the indicators, dahs light or beeps depend on how the system has been programmed. . . .same as lock-unlock indication, which can be set for Nothing, Indicators or Horn for US peeps.

BTW all the forums have right-left confusion. Believe UK folks first.

As I mentioned - 9999 is probably the 'placeholder' for the EKA on a locked BECM, which on a Nanocom displays as '----'
You can't physically program a '9' for the EKA, as the digits have to be between 1 and 6 - anything over that and when programming it with a faultmate it throws up an error.
 
With a Nanocom the need for EKA code can be switched off also the immobiliser can be disabled.
 
Anyone in or near to Coventry with a Nanocom? This motor is really stuck now. There are no flashes, noises, indications at all when I try the EKA. Lock out message gone and just engine immobilised message on again.
 
If the BECM is unlocked you can remove ALL security to get it back on the road with a Nanocom. I helped a local guy do this as he was getting desperate to use his motor.
 
If the BECM is unlocked you can remove ALL security to get it back on the road with a Nanocom. I helped a local guy do this as he was getting desperate to use his motor.

You can disable EKA and immobiliser whether the BECM is locked or not
 
That I did not know Wammers, thank you. It does need a Nanocom or similar though? Yes?

Yes Nanocom in diagnostic mode. Switched to BECM with ignition off. You will get message centre saying (Diagnostic mode). Make changes then write them.
 
Yes Nanocom in diagnostic mode. Switched to BECM with ignition off. You will get message centre saying (Diagnostic mode). Make changes then write them.

That will only work if the vehicle isn't in a locked/alarmed state though. If it's expecting the EKA, then this will need to be entered somehow to clear the lockout before it will allow it to be switched off. It wouldn't be very secure system if you could just bypass it by turning off the EKA/immobiliser when it's already in lockout....
 
That will only work if the vehicle isn't in a locked/alarmed state though. If it's expecting the EKA, then this will need to be entered somehow to clear the lockout before it will allow it to be switched off. It wouldn't be very secure system if you could just bypass it by turning off the EKA/immobiliser when it's already in lockout....

No sorry you are wrong. Need for EKA code and immobiliser can be disabled by Nanocom with BECM in diagnostic mode. This will cancel the alarmed state and enable the car to be started.
 
No sorry you are wrong. Need for EKA code and immobiliser can be disabled by Nanocom with BECM in diagnostic mode. This will cancel the alarmed state and enable the car to be started.
Can also be done with Faultmate.
 
I followed the instructions to the letter. In fact over 25 times I have now attempted to enter the EKA code. I have not a clue if this code is correct. I know that I can follow instruction to the letter. This method DOES NOT WORK on my P38 gentlemen. I heard somewhere of a sync method by plugging something into the OBD socket, also I want rid of all the security interference devices on this vehicle, I care not if it is stolen, I will not claim on insurance, I have too many cars any way.
Any offers of help?
 
Sorry to hear you are still struggling mate. I hope someone near you has a a Nanocom and can do the necessary for you.
 
I followed the instructions to the letter. In fact over 25 times I have now attempted to enter the EKA code. I have not a clue if this code is correct. I know that I can follow instruction to the letter. This method DOES NOT WORK on my P38 gentlemen. I heard somewhere of a sync method by plugging something into the OBD socket, also I want rid of all the security interference devices on this vehicle, I care not if it is stolen, I will not claim on insurance, I have too many cars any way.
Any offers of help?

Engine sync, yes. A Syncmate. Marty_uk rents them out from his website. You're sure all the door microswitches are working and the indicators flash as they should? And this is the real code, not 9999? Did you talk to the legend Mozz? If auto then the light on the dqash and the gearstick should go out.
 
There are no flashes of any light anywhere on the dash or on any of the external lights, there are no noises, bleeps, absolutely nothing when I try the EKA process. I can open the drivers door with the key, that is all I have. When I try the EKA I get key code locked after only 1 attempt whether I open the door between tries or not, makes no difference.. All I did was replace the fuse rely board.
 
Sounds IMHO you need to get a diag tech out...but if car not worth it...sell on for spares or repair...
 
Cost me 1200 3 months approx ago, just had new battery, fuse relay box, Audi heater matrix rebuild, air con gassed up, great engine pulls the caravan well so why cant I just have a key and turn it like my old series.
 

Similar threads