AceB

AceB

Active Member
I've got the EGR removal kit to do so thought I'd give the exhaust manifold bolts a soak of WD40 for the next few days before attempting the removal at the weekend. Bare in mind I'm at the novice beginner stage so may ask stupid questions. :rolleyes:

I've looked at the how to on discovery2 and seen a couple of fitting instructions but I'm now more confused than ever. Ours is a Landmark TD5, we've had it since new, the reg certificate shows it first registered 07/2004 and the engine number starts with 15P. Thing is, there's no EGR heat exchanger fitted, just a straight through pipe and the EGR valve has a second chamber to it with a seperate vacuum pipe. Everything I've read says anything post 2002 had the heat exchanger fitted, ours hasn't, why would that be?

So, with no heat exchanger the blank has to go on the exhaust manifold, those two bolts, just how tough are they? I've got the hex drive for the socket set and it'll be getting WD'd each day till Saturday but I'm absolutely paranoid about snapping one of them as I definitely couldn't remove the manifold to drill one out!

As the bonnet was up I cleaned out the MAF sensor, it didn't look too bad but something shiny appeared in the bottom of it after flushing it withcarb cleaner so it must have had something in it!
 
WD40 is a water dispersant, not a release agent, you need PlusGas or similar to free seized bolts.
 
Sorry, that was me being lazy! I should have said WD-40 Specialist Penetrant. I couldn't find any Plusgas locally, only this stuff.
 
I've put the pictures and instructions for EGR removal on a Td5 engine on my website; you can find them by clicking here.

I agree with the others regarding the use of PlusGas or Easol, but not WD40, all it's good for is as an air freshener!

The bolts are stainless steel, but the surrounding material is cast steel which does rust. Providing you have an Allen key which is a good fit you should be OK, they will undo with a bit of a crack.

You should have two little rubber bungs to seal off the vacuum lines after you've removed the EGR, which you say doesn't have the heat exchanger so you should remove it all completely; pipework, valve, the lot.

Take a bit of time to read the instructions and take a good look at everything before you start and it should all make sense.

Good luck.
 
mine is made in 03/2004, registered in 10/2004. the engine is 15P EURO3 with no EGR cooler - same as yours. the bolts on the exhaust manifold went out quite easily, few gentle taps with a hammer on the hex spanner and that was all what was needed.
 
Thanks guys, that gives me a bit more confidence to try it at the weekend. Brian, it's the crack that worries me LOL Yes, have got the bungs in the kit as well as new bolts and gaskets. Petmic, thanks for confirming mine isn't unique, was beginning to worry it had been sitting around for 2 years before they decided to register it!
 
AceB said:
Petmic, thanks for confirming mine isn't unique, was beginning to worry it had been sitting around for 2 years before they decided to register it!
Click to expand...

no, not unique at all. it seems they built the 2004 discos from whatever was available in the stock. some have egr coolers, some do not. and all of them are EURO 3. btw mine is LHD made for german market.
 
If it's any help, and by way of a confidence booster, mine is a 2004 Landmark and it didn't have the heat exchanger either.

The bolts in the manifold came out fairly easily, I didn't even have to get the big socket set out.

The complete job took about two hours including breaks for tea. Just follow the instructions in the link I gave you and you shouldn't go far wrong.
 
I have a stoopid question.

Just got the kit from Paddock to do this job over the krimble holiday, so I downloaded them instuctions.

All OK till I got to the last bit about the vacuum pipes. They get disconnected from the valve block fingy near the servo and some rubber bungs go over the outlets on the block. Not sure Paddock supplied me with bungs but will rummage in the box.

My question is what happens to the ends of those vacuum pipes that are disconnected? Is it OK to just strip out the pipes? Or do they need bunging up as well?

Bit fick me y'see.
 
An update on this, been squirting both manifold bolts with penetrant for nearly a week in between the rain. Got a new M5 hex drive bit, gave each a good few taps before going in and guess what, both rounded! I guess having the car parked just a few hundred metres from the sea most days doesn't help matters for salt corrosion on ferrous metals. I did give each one quite a push before they went but I was surprised how soft each bolt appears to be.

So, next plan is to wait till I've a week off work (to give me some time to sort out any ensuing disasters) remove the top water pipe and cut the EGR pipe in front of the end bracket. This will give me enough room to get some mole grips on the top bolt and see what happens and if it still doesn't move using a right angled drill to drill out both the stainless bolts. Either retap them or just nut and bolt through the blanking plate and manifold. I've already cleaned both sensors and noticed the diffference in performance so am quite keen to get the final part done.
 
as long as egr pipe is blocked it doesnt matter if its at inlet end ,hitting bolt heads squarely will eventually release them but keep trying allen key in before head mushrooms too much
 
Those bolts are made from a copper alloy. You could try an imerial hex which is slightly bigger, failing that you could hammer in a torx bit. Did you do it with the engine cold ?.
 
Not exactly cold but only warm after getting back home, wasn't entirely sure if it would help or not with them being hot as I couldn't decide if they'd be easier to budge or harder? I'll order a 7/32 hex bit and see what happens, not enough room to be hammering anything in. If I can get the top one moving I maybe able to undo everything else and get enough movement on the bottom bolt that it cracks free. I do hope all this is worth it LOL
 
AceB said:
Not exactly cold but only warm after getting back home, wasn't entirely sure if it would help or not with them being hot as I couldn't decide if they'd be easier to budge or harder? I'll order a 7/32 hex bit and see what happens, not enough room to be hammering anything in. If I can get the top one moving I maybe able to undo everything else and get enough movement on the bottom bolt that it cracks free. I do hope all this is worth it LOL
Click to expand...

if you say so ,i seem to get them out ;)
 
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