Is this noise anything like a duck? A duck that is breathing it's last breath and using it to let out a wimpering and somewhat mournful QUWAAAaaaaack......

Judging by the sound of your post I'd say yes.:D:D:D:D
(I've posted a UTube clip with the sound recorded, at least with the sound mine made. Not sure whether it was a duck or a pregnant chicken that lived in my enginebay at that time ????)

Mine sounded like that. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9a_FGlvpag"]YouTube- Spindown noise[/ame]
but now fixed. (It sticked out it's neck once too often..... grabbed it and twisted really hard and finito the noise.....;))
 
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Sorry to go OT a little, but do we have swirl flaps in this version of the M47 Motor ?

Can't see any obvious signs but worth asking if I am gonna remove the inlet manifold etc :)
 
can someone post a pic of the egr blank fitted with hoses attached etc.

cheers
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EGR bypass fitted to my 2006 Freelander Td4
 

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Mudcrawler - The EGR bypass that you have fitted is the one that has the vac hose take off that is drilled through to the main body. i.e Its not blanked off.

Since I did my EGR bypass using the other black on that is on Ebay, (the one that does blank off the vac hose), I can now hear a spin down noise that was not there before.

How does your car run with this EGR bypass fitted ? Does the open vacume pipe effect anything else.

There must be loads of people with the "stainless" EGR bypass units now fitted judging from the hig volume of feedback that this seller has on fleabay.

What are the thoughts of the more experienced people on this vacume pipe situation, and particularly if the spin down noise is a sign of wear or damage to come in the future given that it was not there before it was blanked off using the "black" EGR bypass unit.

Hope that all makes sense !

Cheers for now
ed
 
Why ever would the vacuum hose connection be drilled through into the airway? Surely it's just a solid stub pipe for somewhere to put the hose? The spin down noise can be eliminated by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose on the "in" side of the EGR solenoid valve mounted on the block. See earlier posts in this thread.
Allan
 
Mudcrawler - The EGR bypass that you have fitted is the one that has the vac hose take off that is drilled through to the main body. i.e Its not blanked off.

Since I did my EGR bypass using the other black on that is on Ebay, (the one that does blank off the vac hose), I can now hear a spin down noise that was not there before.

How does your car run with this EGR bypass fitted ? Does the open vacume pipe effect anything else.

There must be loads of people with the "stainless" EGR bypass units now fitted judging from the hig volume of feedback that this seller has on fleabay.

What are the thoughts of the more experienced people on this vacume pipe situation, and particularly if the spin down noise is a sign of wear or damage to come in the future given that it was not there before it was blanked off using the "black" EGR bypass unit.

Hope that all makes sense !

Cheers for now
ed

I did notice that the stub is actually a pipe but I can't see what difference it would make by reconnecting the vacuum pipe to it. I thought if the vacuum pipe still operates then just let it. It's just not operating anything anymore. I certainly don't have any spin down noise!

Freebie is running better than ever now. Just passed 54k the other day and the fuel economy is better (Added Miller's Diesel Ecomax too) and it feels more responsive and not so sluggish. No black smoke either!
 
AllanI - You would think that it would just be a stub. It is on my bypass.

but the "stainless" bypass is drilled through, so the vac pipe is connected through to the airway !!!

What would that do to the system ?

There must be loads of people that have their vac pipe now connected to this connection which is effectively not blanked off.

What is the detrimental effect - greater fuel used, or damage to another part of the vac system, or no impact ??.

Any replies greatly received as it bothers me that I am now getting the spin down noise.
 
If the small tube on the bypass is drilled through and you connected the (non blocked) vacuumtube on it the only thing it will do is nothing as the vacuum will try to "suck" the air under certain loads (as ordered by the ecu). After having blacked off my vacuumtube I also had every now and then this spindown noise (I started the whole affair as before me nobody seemed to ever have heard that when shutting down the engine), anyway, as AllanI said block off the "in" tube on the solenoid, as I didn't manage to do so as this solenoïd located down in the front of the engine, I put a double layer of ducttape over the opening at the "departure point" of that solenoïd "in"tube, for a LHD near the vacuumcilinder of the brakes, and since then no more ducknoise. See the pic. Good luck.
 

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:D :D :D :D QUACK !!!!!!!:p

Hi Ruler of Zog,

Glad to see you're still alive and kicking .....;)

Have in the meantime found out something to block this kind of tubes, no more balls of ballbearings or ducktape for me anymore, just a small plastic clip through which the tube goes and then click the clip to the closed position which squeezes the tube flat together and all airpassage is blocked.
 
DONALD has left the buiding (well the engine bay)
Done a Willo on mine as in post 149 - pulled off the hose, tied it up and pushed a rubber bung packing piece off small brake pipe over the plastic tube. (seals in vac)
SILENCE !!! Thanks Willo and QUACK no more :clock:
 
Hi Ruler of Zog,

Glad to see you're still alive and kicking .....;)

Have in the meantime found out something to block this kind of tubes, no more balls of ballbearings or ducktape for me anymore, just a small plastic clip through which the tube goes and then click the clip to the closed position which squeezes the tube flat together and all airpassage is blocked.

As the words "plastic clip" don't mean sh.., I took a couple of pictures of it, 1 is in the open position and 2 the closed position where 3 gives you an idea of the size of it. As you can see on 1 one side of the opening is slightly rounded which helps to get the tube through, on 2 you can see the "gap" or the size (thickness) the tube is squeezed to, I wonder whether air/vacuum would still be able to pass. Have put this clip rather far down where it is not seen from top anymore (for MOT purpose)......
 

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DONALD has left the buiding (well the engine bay)
Done a Willo on mine as in post 149 - pulled off the hose, tied it up and pushed a rubber bung packing piece off small brake pipe over the plastic tube. (seals in vac)
SILENCE !!! Thanks Willo and QUACK no more :clock:

Congratulations.

What I am wondering is why, so long back, I was the first to mention this and that none else so far seemed to have heard it, where now I know several people already have done something to get rid of this ticking noise ? Also my neighbour seems to "ignore" it, he confirmed, still last week, that he never hears this ticking noise at switch off where I heard it the first time he arrived at my place the day after I put in a litt ball in the tube on the valve itself. (At the end of the line instead of now at the very beginning of it but that was, at those days, the only known remedy/action to take to block it off).
 
what would happen if you did not block of the vacumn hose once you fitted an EGR bypass. Would it use more fuel, or reduce performance, or what ?

As many people have bought the stainless steel EGR bypass off fleabay with the drilled through nipple, then this is effectively how their engines are now running with the vac hose connected directly into the main airflow of the EGR intake.

ed
 
Not being a mechanic with which I mean I have no experience at all but I would say in such a case the vacuumpump is doing overtime ? Constantly "sucking" air out of the airinlet as far as I can see ?? But again, don't know it at all, just how I can imagin things are going on in such a situation?:eek:
 
So what else is dependant on the vacum pump working ?

i.e If (when) the vac pump fails due to all this extra work it is now doing what else will break !

Anyone esle have a comment on this issue which could be quite important and relevant now that so many people have installed the EGR Bypass, and many of those now have the Vac pipe sucking air directly out of the Bypass main air-flow pipe.

Cheers
ed
 
since looking through this thread, i decided to pop up the garage and nock up a bypass out of some steel, quite easy to make, i done the one like on fleebay, with a little stub for the vac pipe, any way fitted on the engine and cant believe the differance, dont get no spindown noise either,,seems much more tourquier to me when driveing,, brilliant mod , if you aint got one , get one youll be pleased,,, my td4 done 160000 miles, but serviced regular, egr valve didnt look that bad, didnt think it would make a differance, but did..

orson :D:D:D:D:D
 
So what else is dependant on the vacum pump working ?

i.e If (when) the vac pump fails due to all this extra work it is now doing what else will break !

Anyone esle have a comment on this issue which could be quite important and relevant now that so many people have installed the EGR Bypass, and many of those now have the Vac pipe sucking air directly out of the Bypass main air-flow pipe.

Cheers
ed

I'm sure I've posted on this issue before. The egr vac pipe should not be fitted to the connection to the inlet. If you do when egr is called for by the ecu any boost pressure in the inlet will invade the vacuum system. The same vacuum system that supplies the brake servo and controls the variable vane turbo. If you have one of these egr bypasses with the small pipe connection cap it off with something like a small piece of pipe and a screw or it can be used as a take off for a boost gauge.
 
thnx for info chaser, but the bypass i made, i done like the one on fleebay, i welded a small stub on main bypass pipe, which is NOT hollow, just looks tidyer when looking at engine,, im fully aware that you dont connect vac pipe to suck off main airflow..

thnx anyways.....orson :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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