I have recently had some isues with my Disco 2 running for about 10 minutes and then stalling when the revs drop such as when braking at a junction etc. I looked around for the last two weeks on this site and on US sites for an explanation to this problem.

Two areas were suggested MAF Sensor and crank shaft sensor. I cleaned the MAF sensor which was quite grimy, before buying a new one however, I had exactly the same problem. This is not to say that the MAF sensor is ok but, before I buy a new one (expensive) I thought I would double and triple check the possibility of other probems being the cause.

As my car is a V8 auto there is a lot more info on the US sites. I came across a few threads with exactly the same symptoms. All pointing to the crank shaft sensor. I was convinced that this is the problem and ordered a new one from the UK which, after much swearing I installed yesterday. (Bugger of a tight space to work in).

My problem now is that the car will not start and the engine warning light is on. I drove the car with the old sensor in the garden immediately before the change so I know it was the sensor swap that has caused this.

My question is, is there any way to reset the ECM as I am out in the countryside in Sweden and there are not many with Land Rover knowledge here. I read in RAVE that TESTBOOK needs to be reset. Is there anyway to resest the ECM without a unit such as Hawkeye etc. I tried leaving the terminal of the battery off overnight in the hope that the circuits would somehow discharge and so reset...but to no avail.

Any help or suggestions would be very greatfully recieved.

Regards to all.

Hi Folks,

Just checking to see if anyone can offer advice on how to reset the ECM/ECU after replacing the crank shaft sensor. I have the car sitting in the drive and I an at my wits end what to do next.

Appreciate the advice.

Regards

I have now found and fixed the error regarding the engine stalls. I have replaced the Crank Shaft Sensor thanks to the advice on this site and Landroversonly.com

Firstly I now realize that the ECU does not need to be reset so apologies for the silly question.

My error was that I had placed the spacers in the wrong position when I was installing the new sensor. I installed, from the front, nuts, sensor, spacers howere the correct order should have been nuts, spacers then sensor. One this was remedied the car started no problem.

I used Landyzone and landroversonly as reference sites and was directed to a YouTube film on how to do this job. I would like however, to share my experience in the hope that it may help somebody else do this rather simple yet potentially dealer expensive job.

Firstly I have seen advice to undo the exhaust from the manifold to provide more space. I attempted to do this by soaking all three retaining bolts in a CRC penetrating fluid. I removed two without a problem however when the third was half way off it sheared the bolt!!!!!! I was able to repair it however, with hindsight I realize the job could be done leaving the exhaust in place. I would recommend leaving the exhaust in place as this job can be done quite successfully without removing and/or damaging other parts.

I removed two bolts on he heat shield, the heat shield the two bolts on the sensor, the two spacers and finally the sensor. The sensor was still connected to the car via the cable and this is the hardest part of the job. Due to confined location of the coupling and the relatively short cable length from the wiring loom it is incredibly difficult to gain access to complete this part of the job.

This is how I did it. The coupling is held in a two pin spade type metal bracket mounted on the block. The coupling is held in place by a moulded clip on the side of the sensor male connector. It was on the left of the coupling when it is in the mounting. The metal mounting faces towards the rear of the car. I removed the complete coupling in the following way. I slid the screw driver between the metal bracket and the clip closing the clip and allowing it to release from the bracket. I then pushed the complete coupling backwards out of the bracket. I held the sensor cable with one hand and pulled it towards me with a little force at the same time I inserted the screw driver under the clip holding the male a female plus together and released them. The sensor was now out.

The female connector connected to the wiring harness was now hanging free and access to it was partially obsecured by the spade type bracket. This is how I connected the new sensor.

Firstly I orientated the male sensor plug so that it aligned correctly with the female plug. I had to gently nudge the two plugs towards each other until finally the two plugs begun to slide together. With the two plugs joint together about 25% I slid the sensor male plug into the spade bracket and clipped it gently into place so as not to dislodge the plugs.

Next I approached the plugs from the top of the engine. Squeezing my hand in behind the motor and with the aid of a torch I very gently located the top female connector. With one finger I pressed it down and as the bottom section was secured in the spade bracket the two plugs clicked together. Sounds easy…it wasn’t…….

Next, back under the car and insert he sensor probe, the spacer, the sensor bolts, the heat shield and the heat shield bolts.

NOTE*:

PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE CORRECT ORDER FROM THE BLOCK OUT

• Sensor
• Spacers
• Sensor nuts
• Sensor Heat Shield
• Heat Shield bolts.

If you place the spacers in the wrong sequence then the car won’t start, I know because as mentioned, I made this mistake.

I hope that this is helpful to anyone with the symptoms I had. The new sensor cost £45 however If I went to a dealership here in Sweden and assuming they diagnosed the problem correctly it still would have cost me around 5000 krona £450.

Landroversonly thread
Crank shaft sensor replaced engine won't start? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

I am no mechanic just a DIY guy who loves fixing his car. I would recommend this job to anyone as it is just a replacement but can save you a fortune.

Thanks to allon both sites for the help and advice. I trust my ramblings can help someone else in turn.

I had same problem only new cps installed twice just to be sure. Engine started and idled for 5 minutes and died. Now will start only after resetting engine light. Will start and then die. Makes no sense. If it does take test-book to reset after installing cps then I am out of ideas. No way to get it to a dealer without having it towed. Any ideas from anyone will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Chuck

Spacers are different between auto and manual box engines, I think the one supplied with a new sensor is for the auto box by default.

Peter