Datatek
Well-Known Member
If there is no diagnostic connection, having moved a corner to the required height with your box of tricks, how do you read the bit count to write it back?
Depends what I'm doing. As you said above with RSW software it's easy to move corners up & down and then write them.
With Nanocom it's more awkward (albeit possible) to do without Up & Down buttons, so I use my manual box connected to valve block driver, and Nanocom to read the values.
I also use the manual box to extend front or rear manually when working on car, because I'm a short-arse. i.e. when doing stuff that requires above & below engine, etc. it makes it really easy to raise & lower as needed with engine off. It also automatically controls an airline solenoid plus diaphragm valve, so I can have the tank refill from workshop compressor rather than using the pump.
With Nanocom it's more awkward (albeit possible) to do without Up & Down buttons, so I use my manual box connected to valve block driver, and Nanocom to read the values.
I also use the manual box to extend front or rear manually when working on car, because I'm a short-arse. i.e. when doing stuff that requires above & below engine, etc. it makes it really easy to raise & lower as needed with engine off. It also automatically controls an airline solenoid plus diaphragm valve, so I can have the tank refill from workshop compressor rather than using the pump.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
Is the rubber con-rod perished that is fitted to the h-sensor lever r the rubber perished or split where it is fitted to the lever ?
This can cause issues sometimes
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That is sometimes a sign of a high resistance connection.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
The wires on the link-lead to the sensors connection sometimes bare the wires under the insulation and touch the other wires. Would not think its this problem but I have had some very intermittent strange readings and going on before I found it on customers vehicle.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
temporary fly lead to check?
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Hi Kurt, I have been fighting an intermittent fault for a very long time, have replaced with new rear sensors (fault always seems to be from the rear) I have cleaned all connectors and removed the white one behind the kick panel. When I have tested continuity from the rear all seems ok. Is it a straight run from the sensors to the ECU or are the any other nefarious connectors in between?
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
I have found issues a couple of times with the lead that the height sensor is plugged into. The wires become hardened and corroded or wear and cause intermittent faults.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate, I checked the connectors and they seem not too bad to be fair, I was wondering if there were any connectors between the sensors and the ECU. I can’t see any on the wiring diagram
They should be part of the main body loom. I never found any intermediate connections, but don't rule out hidden LR splices within the loom that are not on the diagrams !! RAVE does have omissions & mistakes in places.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
That’s what worries me
Calibrated her today at last.
Had changed one of the rear sensors
With blocks in place all sensors gave sensible answers except the new one.
The original side read 109 and the new one 147 !!!!
Of course that figure wouldnt be accepted.
Took the wee arm off the spring and moved it up and down lots of times and cleaned the contacts on the leads.
Tried again and now read 112 so accepted that and seems to be working fine so far
Had changed one of the rear sensors
With blocks in place all sensors gave sensible answers except the new one.
The original side read 109 and the new one 147 !!!!
Of course that figure wouldnt be accepted.
Took the wee arm off the spring and moved it up and down lots of times and cleaned the contacts on the leads.
Tried again and now read 112 so accepted that and seems to be working fine so far
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
One of the after market Chinese ones? I had to swap sides with my replacement one, the other replacement I managed to get a Dunlop one from Paddock’s, seem to be calibrating ok so far
