H

Henrik97

Active Member
Hi all,
Car is a '97 4.6 HSE. As posted in an earlier thread, I have an intermittent fault with my EAS. It works perfectly most of the time, but every now and then, it won't rise back up from highway mode and goes into beep-beep fault. I have now acquired the cable and EAS software from Datatek to try and find the culprit. I don't know if my comms are good, but there is definitely contact, as I'm able to start and stop the pump, raise and lower corners at will, etc. However, when I hit "read faults", nothing shows up. Also, "get sensor heights" doesn't return anything but a 0 for each corner. FWIW, I did not clear the fault before trying to read faults, so it should still be stored. I have cleared it now though, so that function apparently works fine. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

Henrik
 
I did a vid clip on the system....check your settings against mine and see if you get similar....

 
Thank you,
I will check the dely times and such against your screen. I can see that you are getting lots of stuff back in the Rx buffer - I'm only getting "PP" every time the EAS does a power cycle. Keith seems to think that my comms are currently only working one way, from computer to car.

Thanks again for the video,
Henrik
 
Henrik97 said:
Thank you,
I will check the dely times and such against your screen. I can see that you are getting lots of stuff back in the Rx buffer - I'm only getting "PP" every time the EAS does a power cycle. Keith seems to think that my comms are currently only working one way, from computer to car.

Thanks again for the video,
Henrik
Click to expand...

USB to serial adaptors are a pain in the butt with this system. You MUST load the adaptor drivers BEFORE you plug the system in. If not the laptop will use a generic port driver and it will not work. Try changing USB ports on the computer output to see if you can get a good idle. Until you have that it will not function.
 
I did follow the instructions and I loaded the driver before plugging in. I will try a bit more this weekend.

Henrik
 
Henrik97 said:
I did follow the instructions and I loaded the driver before plugging in. I will try a bit more this weekend.

Henrik
Click to expand...

The laptop may have selected a generic driver, try changing the port settings until it is using the one you loaded.
 
Just thinking about this. EAS computer controls EAS. But doesn't necessarily need complete communication from BECM? As in the diagnostics goes to the BECM and from there to EAS computer rather than direct to EAS computer?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Just thinking about this. EAS computer controls EAS. But doesn't necessarily need complete communication from BECM? As in the diagnostics goes to the BECM and from there to EAS computer rather than direct to EAS computer?
Click to expand...

No diag for EAS goes straight to the EAS ECU.
 
Guys,
The EAS USB serial does work on Win XP, 7, 8 & 10 . . .. . Main thing is getting the correct drivers for the cable you purchase, and as stated many times, installing drivers before you load the software.

BUT, before you start, please clean the P38 Diagnostic connector . . . .

This stuff is basically the same regardless of whether you are using Win XP, 7, 8, 10 or Virtual Machine on Mac.

There are "generic" and "chip vendor" drivers out there. Many ebay cables are crap, but there are good ones out there. Best option is to purchase through the guys on this forum who have the correct cable, because they soldered it themselves.

Plug in the Cable but don't let Windoze load drivers. If it does uninstall them because they are probably gonna be wrong (but might not be ! ).
Then open "Device Manager" or the equivalent and look for "USB Serial Port" or similar.
Right-Click, and select Properties
Now select the "Hardware ID's", and you will see a long string of numbers that looks like this "USB Serial . . . . . \{00001101-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb}"
If you are lucky it will include the HW vendor name.
either way . . . . highlight the whole thing & then copy it using "cntrl-C".
Now go to Google, then paste and search it.
. . . . . . . . .
You should see results like "Prolific Serial" or "FTDI" or then these are probably genuine chipsets. These are the drivers you need.
Do NOT . . repeat NOT, . . . and I repeat again NOT use 3rd party software like "driver finder" to find the drivers for you . . . . you will only get adverts and other crap.

If you cannot identify the HW Vendor from the Hardware ID, then you might have a dodgy cable.

Good luck . . . .
Pete
 
pwood999 said:
Guys,
The EAS USB serial does work on Win XP, 7, 8 & 10 . . .. . Main thing is getting the correct drivers for the cable you purchase, and as stated many times, installing drivers before you load the software.

BUT, before you start, please clean the P38 Diagnostic connector . . . .

This stuff is basically the same regardless of whether you are using Win XP, 7, 8, 10 or Virtual Machine on Mac.

There are "generic" and "chip vendor" drivers out there. Many ebay cables are crap, but there are good ones out there. Best option is to purchase through the guys on this forum who have the correct cable, because they soldered it themselves.

Plug in the Cable but don't let Windoze load drivers. If it does uninstall them because they are probably gonna be wrong (but might not be ! ).
Then open "Device Manager" or the equivalent and look for "USB Serial Port" or similar.
Right-Click, and select Properties
Now select the "Hardware ID's", and you will see a long string of numbers that looks like this "USB Serial . . . . . \{00001101-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb}"
If you are lucky it will include the HW vendor name.
either way . . . . highlight the whole thing & then copy it using "cntrl-C".
Now go to Google, then paste and search it.
. . . . . . . . .
You should see results like "Prolific Serial" or "FTDI" or then these are probably genuine chipsets. These are the drivers you need.
Do NOT . . repeat NOT, . . . and I repeat again NOT use 3rd party software like "driver finder" to find the drivers for you . . . . you will only get adverts and other crap.

If you cannot identify the HW Vendor from the Hardware ID, then you might have a dodgy cable.

Good luck . . . .
Pete
Click to expand...

Great post there. @Saint.V8 , didn't you have a video or something on setting up the software? Could all of this be combined into one of your infamous Jow To guides?
 
pwood999 said:
Guys,
The EAS USB serial does work on Win XP, 7, 8 & 10 . . .. . Main thing is getting the correct drivers for the cable you purchase, and as stated many times, installing drivers before you load the software.

BUT, before you start, please clean the P38 Diagnostic connector . . . .

This stuff is basically the same regardless of whether you are using Win XP, 7, 8, 10 or Virtual Machine on Mac.

There are "generic" and "chip vendor" drivers out there. Many ebay cables are crap, but there are good ones out there. Best option is to purchase through the guys on this forum who have the correct cable, because they soldered it themselves.

Plug in the Cable but don't let Windoze load drivers. If it does uninstall them because they are probably gonna be wrong (but might not be ! ).
Then open "Device Manager" or the equivalent and look for "USB Serial Port" or similar.
Right-Click, and select Properties
Now select the "Hardware ID's", and you will see a long string of numbers that looks like this "USB Serial . . . . . \{00001101-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb}"
If you are lucky it will include the HW vendor name.
either way . . . . highlight the whole thing & then copy it using "cntrl-C".
Now go to Google, then paste and search it.
. . . . . . . . .
You should see results like "Prolific Serial" or "FTDI" or then these are probably genuine chipsets. These are the drivers you need.
Do NOT . . repeat NOT, . . . and I repeat again NOT use 3rd party software like "driver finder" to find the drivers for you . . . . you will only get adverts and other crap.

If you cannot identify the HW Vendor from the Hardware ID, then you might have a dodgy cable.

Good luck . . . .
Pete
Click to expand...

can we have this in english please!!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Don't bother with Windows 8. Did my head in. Windows 10 much better and only one likely to be fully supported going forward.
Click to expand...

I did upgrade to 10,, went straight back to 8 I hated 10!!
Just got my lead and software through the post today so will have a go!
 
plugged in the green plugged adaptor lead first and it appeared to automatically install itself,,, now I'm going to put disk in and READ ME FIRST lol
 
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