R

Ronjon1163

New Member
Got my cable and software today, read the instructions thoroughly, bought the adaptor cable and drivers. When I got the port sorted out the dash changed from "EAS fault" to "slow 35 mph". After 1234 reading 0 The buffers started all with FF, they didn't stop just kept going to 6000 odd then I pressed faults and I think everything that could be wrong is wrong. Pressed "unlock EAS" then "stop" and then disconnected the cable. Turned car on and nothing has changed EAS fault message still there. Did whole process again with the exact same result.
Please help!!!
Ronjon1163
 
Last edited:
Ronjon1163 said:
Got my cable and software today, read the instructions thoroughly, bought the adaptor cable and drivers. When I got the port sorted out the dash changed from "EAS fault" to "slow 35 mph". After 1234 reading 0 The buffers started all with FF, they didn't stop just kept going to 6000 odd then I pressed faults and I think everything that could be wrong is wrong. Pressed "unlock EAS" then "stop" and then disconnected the cable. Turned car on and nothing has changed EAS fault message still there. Did whole process again with the exact same result.
Please help!!!
Ronjon1163
Click to expand...
I suspect that your USB to serial adaptor is not working as indicated by the list of contradicting faults, you do not have good communication with the EAS, do you get a green "Good Idle" under the stop button?
 
At it right now changed and reconfigured ports on computer, all connected and showing good idle, now in 5000 and going up, it's this normal
Ronjon1163
 
Ronjon1163 said:
At it right now changed and reconfigured ports on computer, all connected and showing good idle, now in 5000 and going up, it's this normal
Ronjon1163
Click to expand...
Not sure waht you mean by "now in 5000 and going up"? the Tx & Rx numbers continuously increment except when you tell the software to do something, they will then hesitate and send a series of command numbers.
If you have "Good Idle" read the faults and tell me what you get.
 
2. Pressure....constantly high
7 vehicle moved.

Did it twice cos did not shut it down right 1st time. Same fault results!
Faults cleared and goes through sequence of access to off road no problem. Too dark now for anything else but since we spoke last week it has never went hard fault. I still feel it is down slightly on o/s maybe a centimetre or so.
Your thoughts and what the fault codes mean.
Thanks
Ronjon1163
 
Datatek said:
Not sure waht you mean by "now in 5000 and going up"? the Tx & Rx numbers continuously increment except when you tell the software to do something, they will then hesitate and send a series of command numbers.
If you have "Good Idle" read the faults and tell me what you get.
Click to expand...

I was stupidly thinking that I could not read faults until TX and RX had stopped.
We live and learn
Cheers
Ronjon1163
 
Ronjon1163 said:
2. Pressure....constantly high
7 vehicle moved.

Did it twice cos did not shut it down right 1st time. Same fault results!
Faults cleared and goes through sequence of access to off road no problem. Too dark now for anything else but since we spoke last week it has never went hard fault. I still feel it is down slightly on o/s maybe a centimetre or so.
Your thoughts and what the fault codes mean.
Thanks
Ronjon1163
Click to expand...
Pressure signal constantly high can be a number of things, first checks I would do would be all the connectors in the EAS box and the 2 earth points on the inner wing under/infront of the EAS box.
Also remove the EAS Exhaust silencer on the side of the EAS box towards the bulkhead, see if it is full of white powder, leave it off and see if it cures the problem. Could also be a dicky pressure switch on the valve block.
 
Okay, that's great I will start eliminating them tomorrow. Should there or should there not be white powder in the exhaust part. Does it just screw off
Thanks again
Ronjon1163
 
Ronjon1163 said:
Okay, that's great I will start eliminating them tomorrow. Should there or should there not be white powder in the exhaust part. Does it just screw off
Thanks again
Ronjon1163
Click to expand...
There should be no white or any other colour powder in the silencer. It just unscrews.
Also do the compressor test in Wammers "How To":)
 
Sorry, another question. What's the thoughts on it being down slightly on o/s, does it need re set. Although it is slightly!! What should be the distance from centre of wheel to wheel arch, IS that where it is measured from??
Thanks
Ronjon1163
 
In the last week whilst waiting for software and cables, car has been down to bumpstops on the following corners on separate occasions.

1 rear n/s.
2 rear o/s
3 both sides of rear simultaneous.

On each of these occasions when the vehicle was started, it came back up and drove perfectly?? It never changed from showing the "soft fault"

Really pleased cleared faults and will take all advice to cure it!!!

The cable and software are fab!!

Ronjon1163
 
Ronjon1163 said:
Sorry, another question. What's the thoughts on it being down slightly on o/s, does it need re set. Although it is slightly!! What should be the distance from centre of wheel to wheel arch, IS that where it is measured from??
Thanks
Ronjon1163
Click to expand...

Measurement is from the wheel centre to the wheel arch, measurements are in the How To section I believe, I can look them up for you if you are stuck.

Ronjon1163 said:
In the last week whilst waiting for software and cables, car has been down to bumpstops on the following corners on separate occasions.

1 rear n/s.
2 rear o/s
3 both sides of rear simultaneous.

On each of these occasions when the vehicle was started, it came back up and drove perfectly?? It never changed from showing the "soft fault"

Really pleased cleared faults and will take all advice to cure it!!!

The cable and software are fab!!

Ronjon1163
Click to expand...
It sounds like the airbags are leaking.
 
P38_EAS_HEIGHTS.jpg
 
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