S

sestorious

New Member
Ok ive been sorting through problems with my cars EAS. The fault message is "air susp inactive". Ive changed all four height sensors as two were broken. Ive reset all codes and suspension worked fine. Then it failed again the fault was "reservoir pressure static when filling". I read an interesting web site that said if i remove the pressure relief valve an replace it with the plastic valve thats attached to the compressor plug this could fix the problem. I did this cleared the fault suspension worked fine (really quickly tbh heard compressor working perfectly). Then the fault came back the pressure in the compressor was 11.1bar which this website said was fine. When driving above 60mph for a length of time the ABS HDC DTC warning lights come on but im putting this down to the fact the cars suspension should drop slightly on a motorway an it cant as suspension is locked in ride height an the fact that NO other faults for any of these systems are logged. Now ive been told of a pressure switch ???anyone know about these ??? TBH im NOT really convinced my problem is the compressor ! I know they are unreliable but how can it work perfectly AND really quickly AND have the correct pressure BUT still be faulty ? Im sure this is some other problem electrical, sensor, switch etc ? £350 is alot of money to throw away on a wim of it being the compressor ? Sorry to waffle on but its doing my head in now so any more advice would be gratefully welcome ! PS look at this http://quarterlogic.autologic-diagnostics.com/newsletter/2010/issue5/technical.htm
 
The Pressure sensor is on the reservoir tank, the manual (as attached) says it is not replaceable and on failure the tank complete needs to be changed....I am sure the sensor can be had seperatly and others may know where from.

So what your saying is you have plugged up the exhaust system so the EAS is in a lock position as it can't exhaust any air from the system??
 

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sestorious said:
Sorry mate wen u say ive plugged exhaust system wat do u mean ??
Click to expand...
Sorry its my mistake - thought you had plugged the exhaust valve - you say you have plugged the pressure relief valve so in the event of an over pressure air cannot escape? Surely this isn't a safe mod??

The tank is only aluminium and any overpressure could weaken the tank quite a bit!!
 
All ive done is remove the valve an replaced it with a part that was in the plug . This part was put there by landrover because the relief valve is not actually required. A master technician at LR stated the relief valve was only put there for installation incase of human error during initial pressurising of the system. Thats why the new adapter was fitted to the compressor plug for possible future failing of the valve. The pressure is 11.1 bar which is apparently correct. Also the battery has been tested an its ok ??? Ps wen u callibrate eas wat happen cos we did it with plug in fault reader / computer an as soon as we pressed callibrate it said callibrated straight after without doin anything ??
 
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sestorious said:
All ive done is remove the valve an replaced it with a part that was in the plug . This part was put there by landrover because the relief valve is not actually required. A master technician at LR stated the relief valve was only put there for installation incase of human error during initial pressurising of the system. Thats why the new adapter was fitted to the compressor plug for possible future failing of the valve. The pressure is 11.1 bar which is apparently correct. Also the battery has been tested an its ok ??? Ps wen u callibrate eas wat happen cos we did it with plug in fault reader / computer an as soon as we pressed callibrate it said callibrated straight after without doin anything ??
Click to expand...

What fault code reader did you use to calibrate the EAS ?
 
The hand held computer is called a autel maxidas diagnostic and analysis system. Dont know if you know wat that is but you can google it to see wat you think gents ? Id of thought wen it callibrates summat wud of happened ? eg the suspension moved level or summat ? It did ask us to measure from bottom of alloy to the wheel arch and input the values which we did then it said callibrate so we pressed yes then IMMEDIATLY it said callibrated without doin anything ???? hope this helps you help me ( which by the way you all are an its gratefully appreciated ) :D

ps just watched this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayYbDiZXsV0 an its similiar to wat we did apart from it just asked us to get heights, type them in then its callibrated ??? It didnt have measure button, eas dint raise, it was simply a matter of type in values and its done ???

Also ive read that there is a new software for the EAS is that right ? Could that be a factor ?
 
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As far as I know the only Calibration devide available to the home user (unless you pay for the full fat faultmate or testbook) is the All Comms or the IIDTool....

I could be wrong, but these are the only two I've seen used.
 
Your battery is goosed!
If it isn't that , then check your ignition key switch! They break down and only pass 9 volts which confuses the air suspension ECM
 
I cant confirm that its either of those so would you firstly recommend taking it to landrover have faults cleared then have eas callibrated ?
 
how wud i check the ignition switch ? sod it im gonna change the battery too wat rules do i need to follow to do that ?
 
DISCONNECTION:

  • Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
  • Ensure the alarm is disabled.
  • Wait at least 4 minutes for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Gauge
  • Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
  • Now wait 20 minutes for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
  • You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
  • Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
  • Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
  • Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
  • OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
  • Battery disconnected!


RECONNECTION:

  • Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
  • Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
  • Reconnect the “jump lead” cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
  • Reconnect the multiplug.
  • Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
  • Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
  • Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
  • Hopefully, everything back to normal.

Credit to Joe90 from fullfatrr
 
It is pretty intensive i have to say....

All RAVE says is to wait a few minutes for the ECUs to shutdown and the Fuel Gauge to reset.

The owners handbook says to leave disconnection, charging and maintenance to qualified peeps....

Is is common place to wait 20 minutes for the SRS system to discharhge before removing the Airbags and seeing as though there is a pyrotechnic charge on the Positive Lead to disconnect the battery in the event of a colision, I feel it is prudent to all the SRS system to discharge before continuing to disconnect the positive lead.
 
BLIMEY ! little bit complicated to me that tbh ! think im gonna take it to doncaster country vehicles let them recallibrate EAS might have them check battery too cos as ive said before it tested ok when we last checked it. just gonna look up about this ignition switch test now :eek: PS can someone tell me what readings a good battery wud give so i know before i test it again the volts and amp please cos if they are not wat they should be minimum ill replace battery !
 
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