Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes
Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Solder and heat shrink tube would be better than crimps. If you use crimps fill the ends with silicon or the will rot inside.
Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes
Nope all my teeth are firmly positioned in their correct position. But did find my flossing brushes ideal for cleaning electrical connectors.
Tanks @wammers and others, I have be "fighting" with this issue since I bought it 5 years ago!
(Also try with others used drive pack.... working in others RR)....
Since "we" have Left and Right Hand drive..., can you please share a photo, where is this infamous white connector!
(just the zone where he is).
Thanks
RHD. L/H side of passenger foot well at base of A post. The post that the door is hinged to. Plastic trim held by one central screw. Remove that two white plugs behind it the larger one is the one you are looking for. But clean both if they are corroded. Same place on LHD as far as i know. But it would be driver foot well.
Jelleyman
New Member
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil
Selector switch.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Driver pack. Leave the lid off the EAS box for a bit and see if it affects it. Since I put cooling holes in the lid of mine I've had no more problems, could be coinicidence of course but it's just done a 1065 mile round trip to the UK without faulting.
Last edited:
p38 prius lol
Active Member
It was the driver pack on both my late thor p8's
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I think it's the electrolytic capacitors in the driver pack that fail, they don't have a very good heat tolerance rating, reducing the temperature in the box may improve things for a while.
Datatek, it could be also coincidence, but, since I remove the "rubber side" of the hood/bonnet, the problem is "gone"...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The driver pack is bolted to the side of the valve block in the EAS box next to the compressor. Worth cleaning the connectors before you replace it.
Is it servicing a leak?
p38 prius lol
Active Member
none of my 95 -99 gems p38's have had any driver pack issues
in fact I fixed both my later thor p38's by swapping the driver packs from my old thor p38's
Just to have proof positive I fitted the faulty driver packs from the thor RR's to the gems ones and the random suspension faults moved with them
in fact I fixed both my later thor p38's by swapping the driver packs from my old thor p38's
Just to have proof positive I fitted the faulty driver packs from the thor RR's to the gems ones and the random suspension faults moved with them
Last edited:
Driver can cause problems if it's starts doing it's own thing without signals from ECU that's for sure. It can allegedly cause pressure switch faults which it has no connection to, so it is very clever. Mine used to jump from standard to high on occasion randomly. And even go up to high overnight. Cleaning white plug cured that, it has never happened since. So there are several possible causes. It is not always the driver pack. It's worth trying everything else before spending that sort of money.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the compressor has been working it will get hot, up to 120C
However, as Wammers said, unless there is a leak it should only run intermittantly.
