Thanks Keith,
Just had a look, if I read it right there is a set of 4 for less than £30, gotta be something wrong surely! Delivery times are rather long too but I guess for that price it may be worth the wait and have a set for emergencies. (Not that an emergency could happen with a P38….)
Do you get nailed for customs duty?
 
cornishboater said:
Thanks Keith,
Just had a look, if I read it right there is a set of 4 for less than £30, gotta be something wrong surely! Delivery times are rather long too but I guess for that price it may be worth the wait and have a set for emergencies. (Not that an emergency could happen with a P38….)
Do you get nailed for customs duty?
Click to expand...
No customs duty from China, only from the UK as punishment for Brexit:rolleyes: Yes the delivery times are long I paid €35 for 2 fronts. One has been fitted and working for a while now. Quality looks OK. Think about it, the sensor is a simple device that costs little to make, the prices being asked by regular suppliers is a rip off, the chinks are good at spotting things that they can make for peanuts and sell at a good profit even with a price that is a fraction of traditional suppliers. Be careful though, there are different suppliers on Aliexpress so not all the parts will be the same. Because I needed mine quickly they came via a French agent which is why they cost more.
 
As you say, there are all sorts there, which ones did you get? Funny really, I feel worried about these bits but in the end 90% of the electrical/mechanical bits I buy are usually of Chinese origin and to be fair not very often have I had major issues!
 
cornishboater said:
As you say, there are all sorts there, which ones did you get? Funny really, I feel worried about these bits but in the end 90% of the electrical/mechanical bits I buy are usually of Chinese origin and to be fair not very often have I had major issues!
Click to expand...
I don't know as it was via an agent so I have no details of the maker. But I did see the sensors initially on Aliexpress and at the price it was worth a punt. As you say most of this stuff is made in China so you can buy direct or pay the enormous mark-up to have them in a branded box from a UK supplier.
 
In the oilfield most drilling equipment is made by a company called NOV, which stands for National Oilwell Varco, but is jokingly known as No Other Vendor, because you have to buy every component through them, even standard things like gauges and filters. As you can imagine they abuse the f@#k out of their monopoly, an are pretty blatant about it, I remember wanting to buy a filter housing manufactured by Parker that was ~$600 and on the shelf for immediate despatch from a local hydraulics company, because it was used on drilling machinery, I was forced to buy it from NOV, for $2500, and a two month lead time. It eventually arrived in a Parker box with a band of packaging tape bearing the NOV logo around it, that three foot of NOV branded sticky tape cost my rig ~$1900, making NOV tape the most expensive material by mass in the oilfield. So yeah, I'm all for going direct to the probably original manufacturer for things like sensors etc. Having said that I there isn't a barge pole in the world which is long enough for me to consider touching chinese/ali-express disks/pads/tyres.
 
The saga continues, I have now replaced the right hand rear sensor as per above post, no difference! I have tried calibrating but to get anywhere close the ECU throws a fault of "out of range" the darn thing was only a couple of bits difference between the RH & LH and I thought I was getting close but the ECU just went back to default. I have now chucked in a known good ECU and it has made absolutely no difference to the measured heights or calibration block heights, it just throws a wobbly when trying to use the read heights.
At the moment I have:
Rear Right 520 wade, 480 std, 425 m/way and 415 access
Rear Left 560 wade, 530 std, 485 m/way and 420 access
Front Right 510 wade, 450 std, 425 m/way and 415 access
Front Left 530 wade, 490 std, 460 m/way and 410 access

As soon as I try to get them close the darn thing goes out of range even by only adjusting by 2 or 3 bits at a time.
As you can see the LH is consistently high in all but access.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be happening between LH & RH??

Cheers for any input folks
 
BTW I have removed the white connector in the LH kick panel and soldered/heat shrunk the wires, I also seem to remember way back that the EAS sequence originates in the LH rear sensor, I dont know if this is true however. Maybe I have changed the wrong sensor??
 
tomcat59alan said:
+1 when a brush handle cut to the lengths posted will do the same job.
Click to expand...
:D:D:D
ohhh-whoah.gif
 
cornishboater said:
BTW I have removed the white connector in the LH kick panel and soldered/heat shrunk the wires, I also seem to remember way back that the EAS sequence originates in the LH rear sensor, I dont know if this is true however. Maybe I have changed the wrong sensor??
Click to expand...
there is something odd going on, I would try and test the continuity of the sense line from the height sensor to the ECU and also the relevant earth points.
 
Datatek said:
there is something odd going on, I would try and test the continuity of the sense line from the height sensor to the ECU and also the relevant earth points.
Click to expand...
Thanks Keith, the thing that throws me is that there must be a signal from the sensors or surely the system would flag a fault. I can lower and raise the car via the software so I would assume that the signal is going back and forth. This is doing my head in, at one stage I had both rear heights within 20 mil but then it flagged the out of range fault. At that point there was only a couple of bits difference in the software. Flummoxed I am skywalker.
 
cornishboater said:
Thanks Keith, the thing that throws me is that there must be a signal from the sensors or surely the system would flag a fault. I can lower and raise the car via the software so I would assume that the signal is going back and forth. This is doing my head in, at one stage I had both rear heights within 20 mil but then it flagged the out of range fault. At that point there was only a couple of bits difference in the software. Flummoxed I am skywalker.
Click to expand...
As the sensors are just variable resistors, any unwanted resistance in the wiring between the sensor and the ECU will affect the height.
 
Do the 3 wires from the sensors go directly to the big connector on the ecu? I was thinking of getting a long piece of speaker wire and test all 3 from each sensor to make sure they are good. Where would one check the ground?
 
cornishboater said:
Do the 3 wires from the sensors go directly to the big connector on the ecu? I was thinking of getting a long piece of speaker wire and test all 3 from each sensor to make sure they are good. Where would one check the ground?
Click to expand...
As far as I know they do but I have never done a physical check.
 
Datatek said:
As far as I know they do but I have never done a physical check.
Click to expand...
I believe I will be able to let you know then! I have been thinking about an issue that I have not as yet resolved, a long time ago I posted a question regarding the EAS disabling with the doors, mine stopped doing this and with discussions with Marty the thought that the issue was with the left rear door latch. When that door is opened no message comes up saying door open, the interior lamp does not come on along with the puddle lamp. All the other doors return a message and turn lights on etc. I am wondering if this could have any bearing on the issue? The disable function only works with brake pedal.
 
cornishboater said:
I believe I will be able to let you know then! I have been thinking about an issue that I have not as yet resolved, a long time ago I posted a question regarding the EAS disabling with the doors, mine stopped doing this and with discussions with Marty the thought that the issue was with the left rear door latch. When that door is opened no message comes up saying door open, the interior lamp does not come on along with the puddle lamp. All the other doors return a message and turn lights on etc. I am wondering if this could have any bearing on the issue? The disable function only works with brake pedal.
Click to expand...
If the EAS thinks the door is open, it will freeze, but as you have no door open message it must think the door is closed so it should have no effect.
 
That’s kind of what I had thought, all the other doors do flag the message but still don’t freeze the EAS (including the tailgate) I think this may have been the reasoning behind the signals originating from the rear left of the car, I can’t for the life of me remember who it was on here that mentioned this though
 
cornishboater said:
The saga continues, I have now replaced the right hand rear sensor as per above post, no difference! I have tried calibrating but to get anywhere close the ECU throws a fault of "out of range" the darn thing was only a couple of bits difference between the RH & LH and I thought I was getting close but the ECU just went back to default. I have now chucked in a known good ECU and it has made absolutely no difference to the measured heights or calibration block heights, it just throws a wobbly when trying to use the read heights.
At the moment I have:
Rear Right 520 wade, 480 std, 425 m/way and 415 access
Rear Left 560 wade, 530 std, 485 m/way and 420 access
Front Right 510 wade, 450 std, 425 m/way and 415 access
Front Left 530 wade, 490 std, 460 m/way and 410 access

As soon as I try to get them close the darn thing goes out of range even by only adjusting by 2 or 3 bits at a time.
As you can see the LH is consistently high in all but access.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be happening between LH & RH??

Cheers for any input folks
Click to expand...

How far off the default ranges are you?
 
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