Cheers TC.. its been 'snap finger' quick to date. with no sluggish re-adjusting either..


which has to be honest surprised me.. i expected at least some air or electricty to leak on the driveway :D
 
cheers palace..

had a look earlier left it running for 10 mins with the door open.. didn't rise. pump is running.. so wondering if the piston and sleeve could us a rebuild.. the P38 just turned 120k !!

i'll see what the result is when the yoda cable turns up and post the findings
 
ukadamwest said:
cheers palace..

had a look earlier left it running for 10 mins with the door open.. didn't rise. pump is running.. so wondering if the piston and sleeve could us a rebuild.. the P38 just turned 120k !!

i'll see what the result is when the yoda cable turns up and post the findings
Click to expand...
After ten minutes did you close the door and see what happens!??
 
Does the compressor run with ignition or only when the engine is running? If it's running with ignition the relay will be stuck down. Let it run and remove exhaust filter. Put your finger over outlet air will be coming out of there. With 35 MPH message on dash ECU will not be closing diaphragm valve to fill tank. Diagnostics i am afraid. Sometimes fault clears itself most of the time not. How did you put air in bags before dropping chassis or is it still lifted?
 
same way i did our othe p38 which just went 4 light error and sagged.

this one had the 35MPH on the MFD before airbag replacement when the front right sagged on the M25 (the bag with the split).

i'll see what's up with the diagnostics when the cable arrives, as everything was working 100% before the sag on the split bag i can only surmise the following:

1. split in the airbag caused the OSF sag.
2. 35 MPH error popped up
3 after airbag replacement the 35MPH error needs clearing down to close the diaphram to fill the tank.

so i think that after clearing the fault the tank should fill..

maybe the pump unit is on the weak side and could use a sleeve/piston replacement at some near point too.
 
I am in Wraysbury and have a spare pump you can borrow and diagnostics if that helps but you should get cable etc from Datatek
 
sandyt. thank you, thats very kind of you..

so... update..

plugged in the datatek cable, cleared the faults the 4 solid bars turn to the access level being solid and the normal ride height flashing. it wanst to come up.. compressor is running and can be turned on/off from the software...

not coming up.. left door open for 15 minutes..

and

dooor shut for 15 minutes...

lit candles in a pentagram around the range rover and deflowered a virgin on the tailgate, 15 minutes later (ok well it was 4 !) nada.

still on the bump stops..

looks like the pump cyclinder isnt putting out enough to do its mojo..

it was going to need doing anyway
 
ukadamwest said:
sandyt. thank you, thats very kind of you..

so... update..

plugged in the datatek cable, cleared the faults the 4 solid bars turn to the access level being solid and the normal ride height flashing. it wanst to come up.. compressor is running and can be turned on/off from the software...

not coming up.. left door open for 15 minutes..

and

dooor shut for 15 minutes...

lit candles in a pentagram around the range rover and deflowered a virgin on the tailgate, 15 minutes later (ok well it was 4 !) nada.

still on the bump stops..

looks like the pump cyclinder isnt putting out enough to do its mojo..

it was going to need doing anyway
Click to expand...

Think that has been pretty obvious for a while now. I have written an "How To" to help people like you, but you don't seem to have read through it and done the outlined checks or you would have found out what the problem was a long time ago. I ask questions to try and narrow things down and you don't answer. There is a logical sequence to follow, first golden rule is "If there is no air it won't do anything."
 
Either the pump is doing nothing or it's doing something and the air is escaping, follow Wammers guide.
 
Disconect the blue pipe under the pump see if its making pressure if it is put it back on and grab a spray bottle, stick some washing up liquid and water in it and spray all your air pipes joints and bags
your looking for bubbles! This should be done wilst the pump is running ie putting air into the system
its a ball ache but its the best way to findva leak
eather that or get yourself some eas bypass valves fro ebay fit them to the pipes marked1-4 at the eas box and inflate to 65psi leave for a few hours and see witch corner drops
 
Last edited:
gfromleeds said:
Disconect the blue pipe under the pump see if its making pressure if it is put it back on and grab a spray bottle, stick some washing up liquid and water in it and spray all your air pipes joints and bags
your looking for bubbles! This should be done wilst the pump is running ie putting air into the system
its a ball ache but its the best way to findva leak
eather that or get yourself some eas bypass valves fro ebay fit them to the pipes marked1-4 at the eas box and inflate to 65psi leave for a few hours and see witch corner drops
Click to expand...

You have obviously never read my "How To" either. :D
 
wammers said:
You have obviously never read my "How To" either. :D
Click to expand...

Also overlander has shown me that the schrader valves leak could be pointless checking a leak, if the valve leaks it self .
If you had a pressure gauge with a cut off tap you might have a better chance of finding a leak inline with.
a bag :)
 
Grit Valve said:
Also overlander has shown me that the schrader valves leak could be pointless checking a leak, if the valve leaks it self .
If you had a pressure gauge with a cut off tap you might have a better chance of finding a leak inline with.
a bag :)
Click to expand...

Maybe a valid point, but i still remember the ECU temp sensor, that he thought was the ambient air sensor, hanging on a wire under the manifold. Then wondering why his engine and box were giving trouble. I would not be taking too much notice in that direction if i were you. :);)
 
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